Suspended/lower ceiling?

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I need/want to lower the ceiling height in my kitchen. There are three RSJs going across it in two directions, the original ceiling height in one section, a slightly lower part and another slightly higher divided up by the RSJs where an extension was built. So to bring it all to one height and make it look neater I'm going to drop the whole level to below the RSJs.

All the boards/lath etc has been removed for access to pipes and cables, so it's a blank canvass at the moment.

My first instinct is to do it with timber drops from the joists that hold up a grid of 3" x 2" timbers to fix the boards to. However it occurred to me that it might be better, simpler and cheaper to use the metal studs? I've never used any of that 'modern' stuff, so what're your thoughts? Metal or timber?
 
OK, so it's not just me then. Thought I'd ask in case the metal was better in some way.
 
Arti said:
metal for me. trying to find straight lengths of timber is always a nightmare. each to there own i suppose
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I'll put the 3x2 drops in at 400 centres and pull/push the horizontals into position as I go from one side to the other. That way even if there is a bow in one/some it'll be taken out and then held level. (y)
 
imago said:
I need/want to lower the ceiling height in my kitchen. There are three RSJs going across it in two directions, the original ceiling height in one section, a slightly lower part and another slightly higher divided up by the RSJs where an extension was built. So to bring it all to one height and make it look neater I'm going to drop the whole level to below the RSJs.

All the boards/lath etc has been removed for access to pipes and cables, so it's a blank canvass at the moment.

My first instinct is to do it with timber drops from the joists that hold up a grid of 3" x 2" timbers to fix the boards to. However it occurred to me that it might be better, simpler and cheaper to use the metal studs? I've never used any of that 'modern' stuff, so what're your thoughts? Metal or timber?
Click to expand...
@Lodan over to you mate. Teach him all you know.
 
vfr12 said:
That won’t hold the weight of the bike Imago!
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Oh it would, in fact you could park your van in the middle of it. (y)

7" x 2" (C24) joists over a 3 metre span at 400 mm centres, with full depth noggins at half span to stop racking, 22 mm caberdek glued to to top of the joists and screwed at 300 mm centres. 3" x 2" (C16) verticals screwed to the joists at 400 mm centres through the full 7" depth, then screwed to 3" x 2" (C16) bearers running across the 3 metre run, with 3" x 2" noggins at 600 mm centres. All of which taken together forms a three dimensional box lattice with the 3" x 2" bearers under tension and the 7" x 2" joists under compression.

I know it's a waste of time looking at things like span tables etc when I could just ask a plasterer if they've ever had problems with a first floor ceiling being double boarded on to 3" x 2" joists. :LOL:
 
Metal . Price of woods shocking. We double boarded with 15.mm sound boards i think they were . Hold some right weight
 
imago said:
Oh it would, in fact you could park your van in the middle of it. (y)

7" x 2" (C24) joists over a 3 metre span at 400 mm centres, with full depth noggins at half span to stop racking, 22 mm caberdek glued to to top of the joists and screwed at 300 mm centres. 3" x 2" (C16) verticals screwed to the joists at 400 mm centres through the full 7" depth, then screwed to 3" x 2" (C16) bearers running across the 3 metre run, with 3" x 2" noggins at 600 mm centres. All of which taken together forms a three dimensional box lattice with the 3" x 2" bearers under tension and the 7" x 2" joists under compression.

I know it's a waste of time looking at things like span tables etc when I could just ask a plasterer if they've ever had problems with a first floor ceiling being double boarded on to 3" x 2" joists. :LOL:
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Wonder only....... how much will,they charge you for double boarding? Have you spoken to @Nisus or it's below his conservation level now:LOL:
 
imago said:
That's an expensive game. It'd be nice to get a job that needed it though.
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Well I don't see how else you're going to get @Nisus's interest?
What with not being able to afford @Lodan's consultancy fee I'm starting to worry about how this project isn't going to lurch from one disaster to the next. Good luck anyway.
 
essexandy said:
Well I don't see how else you're going to get @Nisus's interest?
What with not being able to afford @Lodan's consultancy fee I'm starting to worry about how this project isn't going to lurch from one disaster to the next. Good luck anyway.
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Fcuk it, I'll do it myself. I'm a builder so boarding isn't a problem, and when I was at school I iced a cake in home economics so skimming it won't be a problem.
 
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I’d do it as you say @imago, but instead of 3x2” cls or similar, I’d go 4x2” just coz it’s better. After all you’ll already be shelling out for 7x 2”, and if you are gonna double board, it’ll take it betterer......
 
imago said:
Fcuk it, I'll do it myself. I'm a builder so boarding isn't a problem, and when I was at school I iced a cake in home economics so skimming it won't be a problem.
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Oh in that case you've got it sussed. Just like thousands of others lol.
 
I’d agree metal is far better system and easier tbf, to drop past your rsjs you’d probably need gl9 gypframe brackets or even gl12 , most are stocked items and tbh tradeline at Ccf have there own version but I’m not sure on them , once your brackets are lined up and a channel around the edge that’s your hard bit out the way and the ceiling will be flatter than wood , also could pop in some sound block and leave a 3 mm gap around the edge of the entire ceiling then cork and skim would stop a lot of noise going upstairs if you had a bedroom above

I’ll pm you a dummies guide @imago
If you want it
 
imago said:
I need/want to lower the ceiling height in my kitchen. There are three RSJs going across it in two directions, the original ceiling height in one section, a slightly lower part and another slightly higher divided up by the RSJs where an extension was built. So to bring it all to one height and make it look neater I'm going to drop the whole level to below the RSJs.

All the boards/lath etc has been removed for access to pipes and cables, so it's a blank canvass at the moment.

My first instinct is to do it with timber drops from the joists that hold up a grid of 3" x 2" timbers to fix the boards to. However it occurred to me that it might be better, simpler and cheaper to use the metal studs? I've never used any of that 'modern' stuff, so what're your thoughts? Metal or timber?
Click to expand...
Metal frame if you want it straight, timber if not
 
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