Support for lintels ?

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hstoke

Well-Known Member
ive got to remove a old wooden window and create smaller apperature fir a external wooden door what’s the typical size eithier side for a steel or concrete lintel to rest on is it 150mm ? to pass building regs
Cheerz
 
Minimum 150mm bearing but is there not already a lintel above the window?.
If so and your decreasing the opening size then the existing should be sufficient.
 
ive got to remove a old wooden window and create smaller apperature fir a external wooden door what’s the typical size eithier side for a steel or concrete lintel to rest on is it 150mm ? to pass building regs
Cheerz

If you're using concrete lintels inner and outer then minimum bearing is 100 mm a side over a door/window width up to 1200 mm wide. If you're using a steel catnic type lintel then you'll need 150 mm a side.

If there's more than a single storey of brickwork above it then you'll need to either get an engineer to spec it, or use a steel lintel where you can put the data in online for ordering. Catnic and Keystone have them on their websites. Personally, I always use an engineer because if the house burns down and the wall collapses you won't bear any liability.
 
Minimum 150mm bearing but is there not already a lintel above the window?.
If so and your decreasing the opening size then the existing should be sufficient.

I'm guessing, but from his description I reckon it'll be an older house with solid wall, soldier course of brick on the outside and a 7" x 3" timber on the inside. The old casement windows were meaty things that acted as part of the support. You see loads of older houses that have had double glazing fitted without adding support to the outer, and the top of the window is like a banana. :LOL:
 
I'm guessing, but from his description I reckon it'll be an older house with solid wall, soldier course of brick on the outside and a 7" x 3" timber on the inside. The old casement windows were meaty things that acted as part of the support. You see loads of older houses that have had double glazing fitted without adding support to the outer, and the top of the window is like a banana. :LOL:

(y)
I did think that after I posted the above comment Larry.

You see some sights in this game.

I went to price a private once where the diy Derek had removed the whole chimney breast from the ground floor with nothing supporting the rest of the stack apart from the bedroom floor joists.
And he geniunly couldn't understand why there was a massive bow in the lounge ceiling.
:frenetico:
 
(y)
I did think that after I posted the above comment Larry.

You see some sights in this game.

I went to price a private once where the diy Derek had removed the whole chimney breast from the ground floor with nothing supporting the rest of the stack apart from the bedroom floor joists.
And he geniunly couldn't understand why there was a massive bow in the lounge ceiling.
:frenetico:

Chimney breasts are a big issue in Birmingham along with removing the wall to make a through lounge. Even when they're done properly so many have been done in terraces that the ground floor of a row of 6/8/10/more houses now has no bracing. One day a car will hit the gable end of the first in the row and the lot will fold.

I often have to explain to customers how much extra work is involved in undoing DIY lash ups. Mind you, there's a fair bit involved in sorting out stuff done by 'professionals' too.
 
B0720B85-F208-405A-9E98-36868D2D9875.jpeg QUOTE="imago, post: 1118067, member: 23452"]I'm guessing, but from his description I reckon it'll be an older house with solid wall, soldier course of brick on the outside and a 7" x 3" timber on the inside. The old casement windows were meaty things that acted as part of the support. You see loads of older houses that have had double glazing fitted without adding support to the outer, and the top of the window is like a banana. :LOL:[/QUOTE]

See from the crap pics would it be best to just put a catnic in so it will do the job inside and out
 

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See from the crap pics would it be best to just put a catnic in so it will do the job inside and out

You could do as you can sit a soldier course, split headers or run a course of brick to match on the web of the lintel.

That said, if you can leave the arched soldiers in place you don't need a lintel at all. They'll be plenty strong enough for support and look good enough. That way you'd just have to cut a piece of ply to shape over the frame and skin it outside with white uPVC or whatever the door's made of to tidy it.
 
Can do that job on a bullding
Notice ask him what he wants you to install

Window head looks too high
Head needs bringing down
Prop above existing head in& out

Reduce opening new catnic type or similar to
Height of your new casing.
Then Making good above with cavity tray
 
Too high for what?
Bringing down to where? For what reason?



It's going to be difficult getting a cavity tray in, there isn't a cavity.
The head is too high the window is about 2..7 off the floor I’m just going to normal door height 2.1 around that
Cavity pretty non existent in these houses at best it’s 25mm lol
 
Too high for what?
Bringing down to where? For what reason?




It's going to be difficult getting a cavity tray in, there isn't a cavity.


I have given him the right advise from pics
Good luck op

Door 600 mm too high who would put a infill on top of door 600mm

25mm cavity tell building control your not going to bother then
 
I have given him the right advise from pics
Good luck op

Oh good, that's all sorted then. :rolleyes:

The head is too high the window is about 2..7 off the floor I’m just going to normal door height 2.1 around that
Cavity pretty non existent in these houses at best it’s 25mm lol

I guess it all comes down to customer budget, and what they want it to look like. It may be worth suggesting having a fan light over the new door as it will be much cheaper than fitting lintels and also give more light into that room.
 
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