Spraying hardwall
- Thread starter Ivor
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Ivor
Active Member
Cheers, do you have it farting when spraying mono also ?
MikeAtthis
Well-Known Member
clivo
Active Member
Rowland, the farting is from anal with Danny lol
Ivor
Active Member
Your just sick Clivo he still Virgin at the moment
Danny
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DaveAndersonREP
Member
Hi there a starting point for the airline setting is the diameter of the spray cap hole IE 14mm spray cap the airline should be set 14mm back this is a good starting point you may need to adjust it slightly depending on what material you are using
Ivor
Active Member
Cheers Dave any tips on spraying hardwall ? Water settings ect
DaveAndersonREP
Member
The water setting is between 700 to 800 don't leave it in the hoses as it will start to set fairly quick if you are stopping for lunch ect make sure you clean it
The water setting is between 700 to 800 don't leave it in the hoses as it will start to set fairly quick if you are stopping for lunch ect make sure you clean it
What r&s are u using ther bud? We use a d63 and spray at 550The water setting is between 700 to 800 don't leave it in the hoses as it will start to set fairly quick if you are stopping for lunch ect make sure you clean it
DaveAndersonREP
Member
that's the setting I was given by my office asi haven't personally used hardwall through our machine
Oh ok well I'm assuming its the k4 is that the same spec as the g4?that's the setting I was given by my office asi haven't personally used hardwall through our machine
Plasterers1StopShop
Well-Known Member
Same spec machines. The K4 however has a more accurate flow tube with a slightly different spec. This means you have more movement at lower water settings for slower R/S for use when texturing.
Plasterers1StopShop
Well-Known Member
Yes mate it would do
you should use your Mortar pressure guage rather than the flow bottle. Obviously as more material goes through a rotor and stator it will begin to wear and it will pump a bit slower. therefore you will alter the water. Instead of playing a guessing game, use the pressure guage to determine the consistency of the gear its pumping.
The max you should be pumping is 1 bar of pressure for 1 mt of hose. If you got 20 mts hose on then the pressure guage should read 20 bar. Using your pressure guage constantly can guarantee you have the same consistency being sprayed at all times no matter if its a new or old rotor stator. water settings should be no more than a guide to help with start up.
When you use your pressure guage regularly you will operate a machine much more effeciently than guessing
The max you should be pumping is 1 bar of pressure for 1 mt of hose. If you got 20 mts hose on then the pressure guage should read 20 bar. Using your pressure guage constantly can guarantee you have the same consistency being sprayed at all times no matter if its a new or old rotor stator. water settings should be no more than a guide to help with start up.
When you use your pressure guage regularly you will operate a machine much more effeciently than guessing
Plasterers1StopShop
Well-Known Member
Thats a true point Ian and well made. This is one of the main reasons why all of our machines come fitted as standard with a Mortar Pressure Gauge and also a test pipe to allow you to test the material effectively.
The Mortar Pressure gauge should always be used for this, but what we are referring to is to the difference in Flow Tubes, specifically why ours is different and better for texturing.
With the standard PFT Flow Tube the water setting for texturing is very low, roughly 200 when using a D4-2. This is almost the lowest setting on your flow tube allowing no margin for error.
With the calibration of our Flow Tube, instead of running at 200 we would be roughly 300 - therefore allowing more adjustment to your water setting to ensure you are running at the correct consistency with the correct bar pressure and less chance of stopping water passing through the flow tube.
PFT also do these flow tubes at an extra cost...
The Mortar Pressure gauge should always be used for this, but what we are referring to is to the difference in Flow Tubes, specifically why ours is different and better for texturing.
With the standard PFT Flow Tube the water setting for texturing is very low, roughly 200 when using a D4-2. This is almost the lowest setting on your flow tube allowing no margin for error.
With the calibration of our Flow Tube, instead of running at 200 we would be roughly 300 - therefore allowing more adjustment to your water setting to ensure you are running at the correct consistency with the correct bar pressure and less chance of stopping water passing through the flow tube.
PFT also do these flow tubes at an extra cost...
Yeah, we just sell a lighter float for roughcasting. Not sure if a g4 smart or Light comes standard cos they only suited to D pumps.
TBH you can run most renders or plasters with a d6-3 or slower with the green float. Its probably be no good for say hardwall or MP75 with greater water and a higher output like a d8 1.5.
TBH you can run most renders or plasters with a d6-3 or slower with the green float. Its probably be no good for say hardwall or MP75 with greater water and a higher output like a d8 1.5.
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