soundbloc

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ssrout

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Just a basic DIY,er i will try most things ,we have just got new neighbours and we can hear next doors tv in our living room ,please some advise in fitting soundbloc plasterboard on the wall dividing the rooms.ie which adhesive ,do i need two layers or please advise a different method

Thanks for your help
 
Need some more clues, is it a solid brick wall between the neighbours? or a timber framed wall, is it on a stairs ?
 
House is semi detached and built in 1934 with the chimmey breast removed prior to moving into the house ,it is wallpapered flat wall.

Thanks
for your quick reply
 
I take it the noise is airborne and not impact noise? The best thing is(if you have the space to create another wall)it can be thin 75mm or so,if you do go this way, then create a stud(timber wall)and put rubber insulation at the back of the joists, fill the joists with kingspan or suchlike .then board with two sheets of soundbloc. I f space and cost is a reality, then stick the sound bock by dot and dab using multi purpose adhesive, or alternatively,plug and screw it on with washers, one or two sheets depending on the noise level..
 
Yes it is airbourne ,just checking 50mm timber frame with rubber wedged between wall and timber to stop sound travel then 50mm sound insulation placed inside the timber frame ,then use sound bloc board which thickness ?????????

Second method ------You mention plug and screw board which washers ?????? also how to fit the washers

Great help thanks
 
Try not to directly fix to the wall I.e dot dab you can fix timber direct to the wall but cross batten with sound resilient bar inc insulation
 
If the acoustic wave hits the back of the studs then the timber will transmit the wave to the back of the plasterboard and hence to your ears, sound blocker is definately an improvement over conventional, if fitting a seperate stud frame to carry the board then it would be an idea to stand it out from the wall and fix the timber frame through the top plate to the ceiling, the sole plate to the floor and the sides to your internal return walls, before doing this glue a strip of sound deadening rubber along the top of the top plate and the sides and do the same at the bottom of the sole plate if it's being fixed to a wooden floor, if it's fixed to concrete/solid floor then no need for the bottom strip, they used to do a rubber backed sound deadening felt that was very good, something like that or similar glued to cover the party wall.
Infill between the studs with insulation don't use foam slabs there acoustic attenuation is not very good, use an acoustic wool or failing that rockwool or similar.
Doing all this will knock 4" or so off the room if using 2"x2" framing, to minimise deflection on the lightweight frame fix a wooden block half way up each or every other stud between the back of the stud and the acoustic mat that will be glued to the party wall. To skin it I would use two layers of sound blocker, lay the back course horizontal and run some silicon to fill all gaps make sure the plasterboard screws don't protrude you want the heads about a mm or so beneath the face of the board then do the facing boards vertically, tape, fill and sand or skim as prefered. I used this method on my place it works very well.
Hope this helps.

Lozzer.
 
Yes it is airbourne ,just checking 50mm timber frame with rubber wedged between wall and timber to stop sound travel then 50mm sound insulation placed inside the timber frame ,then use sound bloc board which thickness ?????????

Second method ------You mention plug and screw board which washers ?????? also how to fit the washers

Great help thanks
you will have to walk through the waffle on here,try 15mm sound bloc, the rubber behind the stud keeps it separate from the other wall, resilient bars are a waste of time here.use penny washers with the screws if you go that road, the will pull a bit into the board and you can skim over it.
 
If the acoustic wave hits the back of the studs then the timber will transmit the wave to the back of the plasterboard and hence to your ears, sound blocker is definately an improvement over conventional, if fitting a seperate stud frame to carry the board then it would be an idea to stand it out from the wall and fix the timber frame through the top plate to the ceiling, the sole plate to the floor and the sides to your internal return walls, before doing this glue a strip of sound deadening rubber along the top of the top plate and the sides and do the same at the bottom of the sole plate if it's being fixed to a wooden floor, if it's fixed to concrete/solid floor then no need for the bottom strip, they used to do a rubber backed sound deadening felt that was very good, something like that or similar glued to cover the party wall.
Infill between the studs with insulation don't use foam slabs there acoustic attenuation is not very good, use an acoustic wool or failing that rockwool or similar.
Doing all this will knock 4" or so off the room if using 2"x2" framing, to minimise deflection on the lightweight frame fix a wooden block half way up each or every other stud between the back of the stud and the acoustic mat that will be glued to the party wall. To skin it I would use two layers of sound blocker, lay the back course horizontal and run some silicon to fill all gaps make sure the plasterboard screws don't protrude you want the heads about a mm or so beneath the face of the board then do the facing boards vertically, tape, fill and sand or skim as prefered. I used this method on my place it works very well.
Hope this helps.

Lozzer.
Good stuff,he is concerned with airborne rather than impact noise,you can stagger the joints giving the same effect as horizontal and vertical placing,
 
Yes I assumed it was airborn noise, the acoustic wave still applies, yes basically what I am saying is to acoustically isolate the stud work from any noise eminating from the party wall and the return walls and also the floor if applicable, 2 layers of blocker yes vertical offset is same effect of a horizontal then vertical I was just being lazy!
Anyway in all the guff it's max acoustic isolation in all the components of whatever system that is used, I would say that from a an average DIYer point of view timber stud frame is the easiest I wouldn't bother with C channel and or resilliant bars but that's just me.
Which ever way good luck.

Lozzer.
 
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