soot

[big ali]

I have a job coming up and part of it will entail having to plaster the inside of a knocked out chimney breast so a log burner can go in it, i,ve done a couple before now and used a sticky not too strong render using sharp sand and lime with no probs but this one is thick with soot, would it be possible to fix fireline board onto battens and leave it like that ready to be painted or would i be best off removing the soot with a wire brush etc and rendering it, i am paranoid about the soot coming thru, is there anything i can paint on to the brickwork to stop this. and what sort of temperature would a log burner chuck ito the surrounding surface? any ideas much appreciated thanks.:RpS_unsure:

 

[spunky]

Think the boards more preventative mate it'll still burn best render it havent a clue about the soot

 

[big ali]

cheers matey, ive never used the boards before but thought they might work. i dont know if pva or similar would stop the soot coming thru tho

 

[Jace]

i would look at trying to get the soot off mate then yeah render sand cement lime and a victas plaster to skim it.
the board will not withstand the heat and the plaster will blow and the core of the board will break up thier only designed to withstand heat once not repetitivly.
mabey try getting the soot off with a 4" grinder and a wire wheel attachment.
im not too sure bout the heat output but they generally throw out more than 49 degrees so board and multi is not an option mate
good luck :RpS_thumbup:

 

[spunky]

Pretty sure you just get extra time with firecheck before it gives way basically to help a bit before the fire engine turns up

 

[hollybank]

Brush off as much soot as you can then spread cow muck on it,it will neutralise the sulpher[honestly]

 

[big ali]

if i have to render it i was just gonna leave as a render finish and not use a plaster to top it off, i heard that victas stuff is horrible to use.

 

[dustydave]

Pretty sure you just get extra time with firecheck before it gives way basically to help a bit before the fire engine turns up

And then the fireman jumps out of the fire engine and offers to replaster the house on the cheap. Making sure he puts the fire out first.

 

[Jace]

thats the one mate itl only take the heat once so youll have to reboard it every time you use the log burner haha and thats too much agro:RpS_thumbup:.
have you used that victas stuff before?, also ali if you go for the rendering try to do the corners as hard edges not beaded as the metal mesh will expand and blow the corner out

 

[potatoe]

bloody racists

 

[spunky]

And then the fireman jumps out of the fire engine and offers to replaster the house on the cheap. Making sure he puts the fire out first.

Lol :RpS_lol:

 

[big ali]

good idea with the hard corners mate cheers, and hollybank i think the young lady might not be too happy if i start spreading cow s**t around her living room lol, she lives in trentham and is posh

 

[hollybank]

They will love it down there cus they are all full of s**t.!!!!

 

[big ali]

she is very fit too . is there anything else that will neutralise the soot and would stain block paint help stop it showing thru

 

[Jace]

that victas stuff is a nightmare i found it reall sticky stuff and once its set its set there is no sanding it so it has to be perfect, it also takes longer to set than normal plaster

 

[hollybank]

You could try an sbr slurry,could be wrong,i will be in trentham on thursday so i will bring you some cow muck if you wish and we will meet up for a brew.

 

[jonst64]

that victas stuff is a nightmare i found it reall sticky stuff and once its set its set there is no sanding it so it has to be perfect, it also takes longer to set than normal plaster

its like skimming with pure cement mixed with uni :RpS_thumbdn:and its not blooming cheap :glare:

 

[big ali]

not starting the job for a few weeks holly or a brew would be on the cards

 

[dustydave]

she is very fit too . is there anything else that will neutralise the soot and would stain block paint help stop it showing thru

You could always add black cement dye into the render. Done this in the past and looks the biz.

 

[Jace]

good comparison jonst diddnt think of that i was thinking its like sika slurry that sort of consistancy

 

[big ali]

sbr slurry mix render with lime then cement dye sounds like the order of the day with maybe a bit of cow muck as well lol

 

[jonst64]

good comparison jonst diddnt think of that i was thinking its like sika slurry that sort of consistancy

:RpS_thumbup:,,,,,,,,
last 1 i done i had to put top coat on a bit thicker cos customer hadnt got enough base coat, take forever to set:RpS_mad: i even had time to drop lab off then go have me tea b4 i went back and the f,cker was still hanging :RpS_bored::RpS_bored:

 

[hollybank]

sbr slurry mix render with lime then cement dye sounds like the order of the day with maybe a bit of cow muck as well lol

I will leave the cow muck with adele for you.lol

 

[big ali]

its too late at night to be thinking about adelle mate

 

[hollybank]

its too late at night to be thinking about adelle mate

Is she keeping you up!!! lol.

 

[bubbles65]

Wire wheel attatchment on a drill, grind a key into it and slurry coat. Sulpher resistant cement coat, then dry-line it:RpS_thumbup:

 

[irish_spread]

if the cowsh1t dont work I always revert to bullsh1t :RpS_thumbup:

 

[Jace]

i like to start with the bullshite gets it out the way at the beginin

 

[lucius]

What Bubbles said.

 

[Jace]

how can you dry line it?? by this you do mean plasterboard it yeah or have i missed something here

 

[lucius]

Imeant cement board

 

[Jace]

no worries was just wonderin what you ment is all, i was pretty sure you diddnt mean normal board.