Skimming this wall (piccies attached)

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andrewp

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Hi, I've removed a load of tiles from around a bath and have been left with areas where the skim coat was pulled off the sand and cement undercoat:

Skimming this wall (piccies attached)


Skimming this wall (piccies attached)


Bearing in mind I'm a DIYer, what's the best thing to do here? Ceramic tiles are going to be put on after so it needs to be firmly attached to the wall. Also, I can take my time, so can do bits over a number of days.

I was thinking of filling the holes with either finish or bonding, waiting a few days, and then skimming the whole lot.

But where I get a bit unstuck is how to do it (ie do you pva S&C, and should I use WBA for ultimate grip even though it's only meant to be used on low suction backgrounds).

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Cheers for the quick replies!

No to backer boards, have ruled that out. Good idea though.

Can you put bonding on 1-2mm thick?

Also, do you pva, let dry, then bond, then pva again and skim when tacky? I need an idiots guide:RpS_blushing:

Cheers again.
 
water pva down so it looks like milk. allow to pull in bond it out when tacky or dry. yes can be put up 1-2mm thick. if youve got a few days let bonding dry then pva again and skim when tacky or dry. (imo easiest way for a diyer)
 
pva ,let it dry scrape off the old adhesive, pva again, give it a tight coat of finish mixed with a few handfuls of bonging, straighten with an edge or float in, then trowel flat, leave it a couple of weeks before tiling..
 
Cool, that sounds like a plan then...

I usually use PVA 5:1 first and then 3:1 on the second coat (purely because that's what it says on the back of the tin). So, would I be right in doing the following:

1) PVA 5:1 the whole wall, and fill in the large holes with bonding when tacky
2) key up bonding
3) a couple of days later, PVA 3:1 the whole lot, and skim when tacky?

Cheers again.
 
so many of the options given are correct, some are given to suit you as a diyer and not how we would do it, a sound background is key, the pva ratios you give are fine, just get rid of the loose plaster if any and the tile adhesive which may soften under pva..
 
andrewp said:
Cool, that sounds like a plan then...

I usually use PVA 5:1 first and then 3:1 on the second coat (purely because that's what it says on the back of the tin). So, would I be right in doing the following:

1) PVA 5:1 the whole wall, and fill in the large holes with bonding when tacky
2) key up bonding
3) a couple of days later, PVA 3:1 the whole lot, and skim when tacky?

Cheers again.
Click to expand...

This would be fine, but as said make sure the underlying plaster is solid.
 
Will do, have been removing tile adhesive (well, the large bits, impossible to get rid of it all) and loose skim as I go.

Yes, tiling myself.

Thanks all again.
 
Sorry if I'm talkin Shite here! But that plaster looks fecked, surley fir a diyer would it not be easier to hack off the rest and fix a backer board to the brick then tile? Also offers piece of mind.......... or am I missin somethin?
 
where did the spread go that did the ceilings and rest of the walls.. I think the wall looks sound enough, I even knocked on the picture
 
youll need to register with that G** forum for the tiling advice mate :RpS_biggrin:

post some pics up mate when youv done maybe youll get some more pointers for next time
 
I skimmed the wall. I'm not too bad, just need pointers when it comes to slightly not so straight forwards things.

The skim that's on there is solid as a rock, hence why I don't want to pull it all off.

Cheers again.
 
Similar thing to you mate I ripped shower sink etc out bathroom and then hard walled the big dips then skimmed all the walls and ceilings all be it took me nearly 4 days to get it looking decent but my first ever skim :-)
 
Thanks for all the replies. Always guaranteed a decent number on this forum!

Feel better tackling it now. I'll go the PVA route and forget the WBA. If i remember i'll post some pictures so you can all have a laugh.
 
johniosaif said:
so many of the options given are correct, some are given to suit you as a diyer and not how we would do it, a sound background is key, the pva ratios you give are fine, just get rid of the loose plaster if any and the tile adhesive which may soften under pva..
Click to expand...
How would you do it
 
You should scrape it before you pva it or you scrape the pva off......or do you need a key in the pva because you're professional
 
spunky said:
You should scrape it before you pva it or you scrape the pva off......or do you need a key in the pva because you're professional
Click to expand...
Tut tut spunky, normally I find that pva breaks down the old tile adhesive and makes it easier to come off especially with a nice bladed scraper..
 
Sounds like a plan then use more over the top just In case you missed a bit lol, like you're idea about ruling off multi sounds mint that
 
Get a tiler to sort it FFS dont listen to anything u have been told not much wrong with the walls, scrape all the loose addy of and skim and flatten with the adhesive u are goin to use if it helps, personaly i wouldnt have to but would help a DYER as you would have time to square the wall up
 
Fk the skimming just pva the wall and bang a tight coat of bonding over it. Quick scratch with a devil float then a wipe over with a trowel when its pulled in. Tile on top of that
 
Tiling on bonding, just the type of advice we should be giving a DYEr who has come on the forum asking a genuine question who actualy dosent want his bathroom fcuked up
 
Cheers for all the comments. I'll stick to bonding it straight and then skim. The bonding will stick to anything, and as long as I PVA right, the skim would be stuck hard to the wall.

:RpS_drool:
 
I agree with Fatarm ^.
Quick & easy solution for a D.I.Yer....... knock the old plaster off,brush wall down of excess dust,apply really weak mix of PVA & water to kill/harden any dust left,dot & dab Moisture resistant plasterboard (no skimming) & tile straight onto that after a day or so.........nice new flat surface & piece of mind.
Why mess about on an old,shyte wall?
More often than not you can loosen the backing plaster when removing tiles without even realising.
A good,sound tiling job is only as good as the background it's going on.
 
just do what lucius said skim it over with the tile addy you are goin to use just to straighten it out a bit then tile onto that (obviously give it a good scrape first to get all the loose off)
 
carl-the-plasterer said:
I agree with Fatarm ^.Quick & easy solution for a D.I.Yer....... knock the old plaster off,brush wall down of excess dust,apply really weak mix of PVA & water to kill/harden any dust left,dot & dab Moisture resistant plasterboard (no skimming) & tile straight onto that after a day or so.........nice new flat surface & piece of mind.Why mess about on an old,shyte wall?More often than not you can loosen the backing plaster when removing tiles without even realising.A good,sound tiling job is only as good as the background it's going on.
Click to expand...
I was thinking of mech fixin somthing like aquapanel then tile onto that?? You could go on top of the existing plaster,drilled and screwed into the brick? But whatever suits the op then crack on:RpS_thumbup:
 
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