I have been told best way is to pva bond it let it go off completly next day pva it and skim is this the best way
Bonding and multi = magic mix? It's the real spikes that get me stuck for this method and the quick setting. Not practised with it much.Magic mix, no need to scrape![]()
If there's a proper artex bleb I'll knock it off but not had any problems with drying fast, usually leave an hour before second coat and its usually still moveableBonding and multi = magic mix? It's the real spikes that get me stuck for this method and the quick setting. Not practised with it much.
I'll have to give the magic mix another go. Will still seal though first. I'm a big fan of sealerIf there's a proper artex bleb I'll knock it off but not had any problems with drying fast, usually leave an hour before second coat and its usually still moveable
2 heaped bucket trowels of bonding per bag of skim is what @zombie told me and always works.....so farI'll have to give the magic mix another go. Will still seal though first. I'm a big fan of sealer
I been skimming artex for years. Scrape and seal with artex sealer. Leave over night to dry and then skim. That's my preferred method. No bubbles or pickling. Just think about the asbestos in artex before you go scraping. If it's got that sugary look or pre 1998 ish then don't scrape. Overboard and skim
Not much fun when a big patch of artex delaminates and peels away whilst your skimming itIf they can't afford to board over it then I can't be bothered plastering over it nightmare some off them and so are the ceilings
Yeah. Old contract artex. Soft as hell.Not much fun when a big patch of artex delaminates and peels away whilst your skimming it
Sticks like sxxx to a blanket when artex sealer is used to seal artex. Trouble is that Pva don't seal that well and some plastering over artex I have seen is terrible. Artex is very dry and needs a good seal to cope with the depth difference from the pattern.
So you skim onto artex sealer?, didn't realise it was a bonding agent, thought it just stabilised.
@kebab king I think does this
There's no way to tell by looking at it if it has asbestos in it or not. I do my own testing and you never know until results come through.I been skimming artex for years. Scrape and seal with artex sealer. Leave over night to dry and then skim. That's my preferred method. No bubbles or pickling. Just think about the asbestos in artex before you go scraping. If it's got that sugary look or pre 1998 ish then don't scrape. Overboard and skim
I kind of agree. Play it safe, however. If you look at the artex and can see it looks sugary then it should sound alarm bells. If customer said it's safe and was put on in 2010 I would say thats bxxxxxxx. The sugary look may not be the asbestos, more the glue and manufacturing processes as around 1996—1998 man made glues were used and the mix was so creamy. It was sold as..The all new fibre free texture with a cold and warm water mix versions. See how creamy it is... .It was the selling point. I'm going to jobs now looking at houses built around 2003 with creamy artex ceilings. I don't think that has asbestos in it but i could not be 100% sure. I also here some tests come back inconclusive because its hard to find it mixed up with all the other stuff. Not sure what the latest tests are like? Best play it safe and it wound be great if there was an easier instant powered device asbestos test.There's no way to tell by looking at it if it has asbestos in it or not. I do my own testing and you never know until results come through.
I been skimming artex for years. Scrape and seal with artex sealer. Leave over night to dry and then skim. That's my preferred method. No bubbles or pickling. Just think about the asbestos in artex before you go scraping. If it's got that sugary look or pre 1998 ish then don't scrape. Overboard and skim
Only one brand. Artex. Have seen others make it over the years but its rubbish. I buy from B&Q. Not many places stock it these days. It's at the easyfill and drywall sectionArtex sealer? Any preferred brand or retailer? Not heard of that as a specific product. Used blue grit before.
So do you need to pva over the sealer once dried?Sticks like sxxx to a blanket when artex sealer is used to seal artex. Trouble is that Pva don't seal that well and some plastering over artex I have seen is terrible. Artex is very dry and needs a good seal to cope with the depth difference from the pattern.
No. Skim direct on the dry sealerSo do you need to pva over the sealer once dried?
Jane likes it Rough Mt@kebab king been doing it for years he is rough though (so my wife tells me)
If you Pva and then skim the same day you can get in trouble over artex. You need sealer to be waterproof and not liven up with wet plaster. It's why that Polymer blue grit is so well thought of as It's hard as hell when dry. Learn what you need to do and treat accordingly. If you think you can Pva and zombie mix a artex ceiling same day then great. If the artex is the soft contract type from 90s then artex sealer or blue grit and let it harden. I know for fact that some spreads think Pva and skim every artex ceiling the same day and they say they don't get any problems. I'm calling them out because I have put some of that crap work right.. Boarding over is a good way to sort if joists will take the weight. I also get terrible wall and ceiling line cracks from boarding over so stick no nails around edges as you tacking over to stop that. It's not an easy job to turnout quality work. People think it's an easy job. It ain't