Shadowing/shadows on tapered joints.

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Halogen

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I find that with plastering,theres the 'right way' and theres 'your way'. I find theres more than one to 'skin a cat' with plastering and I often mix and match with my plastering techniques. I tried a new way of skimming (new to me anyway) on Friday and it worked like a dream!! My ceilings are looking like a pane of glass with no blemish's whatsoever etc

Instead of putting my 1st coat on super tight then squeezing in a light 'grease over',im now making my 1st coat pretty heavy (compared to what im used to ie; skin tight) then when i come to 2nd coat,because its still relatively soft because its not been sucked in so much,my second coat is tiny (its virtualy a one coat technique) so due to the thickness,this gives me time to get in 2 DRY flatteners,(delaying the process of adding water for aslong as possible whilst still being able to go over it with a dry trowel) then its 2 waters and polish up and its coming up like a dream it really is........

only slight problem is i find (when your trying to achieve perfection you will always find fault :) ) is in parts theres slights shadowing on the tapered joints (butt joints no probs) and with the shine on my work it highlights it more,stands out more than it would ordinarily)

any tips on how to eliminate this? ive tried blocking out my joints before hand and letting them going hard but doesnt always do the trick.If anything,i find having blocked them out before hand,when i come to skim over them,the plaster seems to look kinder 'bumpy' over them,even tho i troweled the joints up when i blocked them out.

cheers
 

Halogen

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Oh and i forgot to mention before anyone points out,I never go across my joints until they have gone hard ofcourse,I always go up my joints.
 
Welcome to the forum,

When I skim tapered edge board I run a bit off finish up the joints first then start slinging it on, you cant really get over the shadow as its only where the finish is drying... I think and when its painted its normally all good.

Danny
 

steve1976

New Member
as danny said nothing much you can do with the shadows on the joints unless you wanted to bond the whole board wall first, i just skim the joints first and skim straight away they dont have to be hard. :)
 

Halogen

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Yeah i know what your sayin.......the difference tho with ceilings is that,along the tapered joint,the joist does not run behind it/them all the way like they do on butt joints,due to the fact when you board ceilings you dont 'go with' the joists but accross them etc.....
....and with modern houses being the s**t they are,no noggins,counter batons an so forth,you can push parts of the tapered joint in becauses theres nothing behind it.........so when your skimmin it and you come to the trowelin up,theres movement in the joint itself,and thats with the most delicate of touches and still 'going with' the joint.

No wonder joints crack/show on ceilings......its not like on the studs where on the tapered joint you have the stud going right the way down/with it. Movement=cracks does it not?? Do the tapered joints jus require a shed load of stuff on them as to avoid any hollow whatsoever?? but then when you put skim on heavy it doesnt flatten well.......hmmmm i think too much at times!! ;D
 

tomcat

New Member
how long does it take you to do one hit of plaster?
as sounds like the way i do mine, takes about 3 hours.

if you put the 2nd coat on when the first coat is not gone of its easier to do also.


aj
 
sounds like the boards that are being skimmed are 9.5mm If you use 12.5's the movement is minimal if not any.

Danny
 

Halogen

New Member
No the ceilin boarda are always half inch minimum and mostly 15mm.you'd be surprised how much you can press the joints in between the joists.Only way to get round it would be to board 'with' the joists but that wouldn't be structurely sound...
Dont get me wrong,its not a big problem atall....to eliminate everything and anything tho...a mate of mine bought one of them 'goldtrwowel' dvds from that golden trowel website,and the geezer on the dvd puts a thick coat on....lets it 'go in' quite a bit,then gives it a right good flattening,witha bit of edge it seems,coz its gone in........then mixes up AGEN,and virtualy 're skims' the whole lot,lets it go in loads etc etc trowels it up etc i mean,it looks bloody bomb proof!! it would defend against radiation it would,its that thick!practicaly 2 bags of stuff for like a 3 8x4 board ceiling!oh puurrrleeeeaase!

but sod that 4 a lark,its not practical on site,on price work to be messing around like that, as tho you ad a foreigner at buckingham palace!!!

re:tomcat a gauge is currently lasting 2 hours 45 mins give or take. I mix my 1st gauge up at 7:10 and its troweled up by 10 am. but when it was super cold the other week it was 3 hours minimum.
 

tomcat

New Member
thats alot of plaster for 3 boards.

its harder work putting it on that thick and i find it bubbles also and ripples.
 

Halogen

New Member
yeh exactly,the only time i put it on thick is when i have to around door casings that are ridiculously past the plasterboard! and trying to keep it flat is a nightmare,bubbles,ripples etc you jus cant work with it when its heavy.
 
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