Shadow beads questions

Members online

Status
Not open for further replies.
Basically instead of butting up to a window frame, door casing or some cases instead of skirting. You use a shadow bead. We did a job.on an architects house and we used the everywhere. No skirts or architraves and round all the reveals
 
Why would you do that?

Also I've heard them used for overboards to keep the coving etc, does that mean you just stop the board shy of the coving?
 
Why would you do that?

Also I've heard them used for overboards to keep the coving etc, does that mean you just stop the board shy of the coving?
Think you set the beads first with those if coving stopping I tend to use board edge beads looks nearly the same and the beads are cheaper
 
Board the ceiling leaving it 10-15mm short of the edges (or whatever the size of the shadow gap is. Put the bead in and it leaves a uniform gap all the way round. Looks alright if you dont want to rip down and re cove.
 
Just swerved a job that specced shadow beads everywhere, reveals, casings and skirtings..

They just wanted to pay a m2 rate. And not for the extensive work involved in getting the fckers bang on..

Lovely job though when done right..


I'm using The Plasterers Forum Mobile App
 
It takes so long. We were on a day rate and had a chap with a mitre saw helping. Any corners have to be mitred bang on or else they look ****
 
So you'd tack the beads up and board up to them, then the skim brings it flush to top of bead?

Id fix your boards first mate but not all the way to the edge, then slot your bead under and move to exactly where it needs to be then tack the edge of your board. If the beads arnt bang on the process looks ****.

Mitre mate your joints in the bead also and they will sit nice and tidy.
 
we plastered a hospital using shadow beads, around all window frames, door liners, skirting lines. they sprayed the ceilings and walls with plasterpack, a washable decorated finish,.
on take over day the hospital management said that they could not accept shadow beads as they created a dust trap. we got paid to fill the lot in and have the whole building resprayed.
 
Cheers for that Andy, was that just done as a feature?

Do you have any pictures of a lid done to keep coving? Very intrigued to see what that looks like.
 
@Skimble yes mate they were just used as a feature, I've never used them on a ceiling.
These metal shadow gap beads just sit over the edge of the board meaning you can get the tacker to fully fix the board edges whereas most of the plastic versions actually clip onto the edge of the board (like an edging bead). This can make getting the beads where you want them next to impossible in decent time.
For the ceiling application mentioned earlier the metal beads would be much easier to use. Just keep the board 21-25mm back from the cove and then slot the bead into the gap and fix to the board.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What snips you using to cut them that neat?

Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515m using The Plasterers Forum mobile app
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top