Running in situ

[allyb]

Iv I job to do for a customer who Iv done work for before, the gable wall in the master bedroom of a big Victorian house is damp, I'm going to hack off exsisting plaster on the damp wall, tank and scratch coat of s and c with waterproofer and then thermo board on top off that, however he is keen on keeping the coving which with the thermo board would not be poss, so I'm guna suggest that I get a mould made from the exciting and run a new length insitu? Wot u guys fink? Would it just be a case of levelling a piece of 2b1 and running off that then joint rule the ends in?

Cheers lads!

P.s iv found the course of the damp s**t render on gable which I'll sort out in the spring when I do his garage

 

[bodymould]

Hi AllyB, not so sure you need to run in-situ, why not run cast what you need in the room, and install it, much cleaner. Job Done!!!:RpS_biggrin: Days.

 

[superspread]

if its just a cove you could do that freehand ,with a 8mm batten on the ceiling and wall line .

 

[allyb]

Hi body mould I'm not really set up for the fibrous side of things no bench etc. however iv done bit before and feel confident about this and would like to get a few pictures for the old portfolio :RpS_thumbsup: U reck on running in situ will be to awkward?

 

[harrisonaard1]

If you can make a simple 'horse' to run on a bench, then it is just the same process to run in situ, except it's a bit more messy. Just ensure that there is a very good key to the background using screws and 'materials' (plasterboard,timber, tyres, seagulls etc.) to build it out first if you wish. The base coat is a simple series of layers of lime/sand/plaster at 4 or 5:1 with casting plaster, getting a bit stronger (3:1) towards the end if you wish. You can use haired pre-mixed lime/sand, which is preferable but not essential. You can also use hydrated hydraulic lime, but I have found no great benefits (unless you are outside!) and putty lime is obviously naturally stickier.The final coat of about 2-5mm is lime and plaster at 3:1 - reducing down to just plaster as you progress to the final finish surface which is applied by brush. I don't want to tell you how to suck eggs, but practice first if you haven't done it for a while or at all. If you do the basecoat with the horse and baffle, then there will obviously be enough time to twiddle with the correct profile (and your technique) for the finish. Good luck.

 

[allyb]

Cheers Harrison my plan was to get a horse made from a local company as I dont really have time to do this myself and build the mould out using plaster board bed in some hessen scrim and build up with casting plaster intill finish as this is how i was taught wot or the advantages of doing it the way you suggest?

 

[SCGplastering]

core it out with bonding/plasterboard 1st using a muffle then go over it with casting/lime putty etc to finish it. needs keying before casting over it

as said though, running it on a bench would be easier. wheres the job? if near luton ill happily make you some moulds at my college

 

[steve1903]

wize up with all that old s**t just make a template and run it with thick multifinnish then mitre it in all insitu finnish is as good as casting quicker and LESS mess.

 

[authenticlime]

If you can make a simple 'horse' to run on a bench, then it is just the same process to run in situ, except it's a bit more messy. Just ensure that there is a very good key to the background using screws and 'materials' (plasterboard,timber, tyres, seagulls etc.) to build it out first if you wish. The base coat is a simple series of layers of lime/sand/plaster at 4 or 5:1 with casting plaster, getting a bit stronger (3:1) towards the end if you wish. You can use haired pre-mixed lime/sand, which is preferable but not essential. You can also use hydrated hydraulic lime, but I have found no great benefits (unless you are outside!) and putty lime is obviously naturally stickier.The final coat of about 2-5mm is lime and plaster at 3:1 - reducing down to just plaster as you progress to the final finish surface which is applied by brush. I don't want to tell you how to suck eggs, but practice first if you haven't done it for a while or at all. If you do the basecoat with the horse and baffle, then there will obviously be enough time to twiddle with the correct profile (and your technique) for the finish. Good luck.

Id love this poster to come back and read this

you dont have a clue what yer talking about,my guess is you read a book about how to run in-situ....and just spewed a bunch of crap out yer mouth lots of assabouttit info in here...LOL