Rough And Set.

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roryston

Well-Known Member
Ok my loves!

Right looked at a newbuild today, bloke wants the lot done.

Board and skim ceilings, and hardwall and skim walls.

Hes pretty old school, doesn't want dabbed even though I told him its cheaper labourwise and more progressive.

Ive done quite a few single rough and set walls but never a whole room a time so after some advice.......


The walls are thermolite blocks, would you pva or just light spray with water before hardwalling them or do em dry?

Opposites.... Ive always gone by you treat hardwalling a wall as you would skimming, I.e opposite walls first and any wall that isn't touching another then skim when slighty tacky then bring the otherwalls in after? Effectively lay on 2 opposite walls in 2 separate rooms then skim them after? Next day finish the rooms if possible?

Time.. Hardwall in the morning and skim in the afternoon?


Sorry for the questions lads, I'm comfortable doing it but dont want to pisssss myself up on the price!
 

s61

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't really want to tackle themolites with hard wall but if I had no choice I would soak them with a hose pipe first
 

roryston

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't really want to tackle themolites with hard wall but if I had no choice I would soak them with a hose pipe first

I said that to him, I'm gonna push him in to dabbing It I think. No way am I going to be running around like a madman trying to control hardwall
 
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malc

TPF Special Forces
I wouldn't really want to tackle themolites with hard wall but if I had no choice I would soak them with a hose pipe first

you can not hose walls down upstairs on a house with wooden floors.
 

malc

TPF Special Forces
I said that to him, I'm gonna push him in to dabbing It I think. No way am I going to be running around like a madman trying to control hardwall

why did you not learn how to float hardwall ? do not bother to price the work if you do not know what to do.
 

Djr

Well-Known Member
A strong coat of pva will kill the suction . I float till around 11 and then skim the lot .if you don't pva the thermolites the suction is savage and the backing rules awful same with toughcoat
 

roryston

Well-Known Member
the chancers forum.....absolute c**t of a question ....
ive give up now.

Not a chancer at all mate. Asking advice on it as I never done it on a large scale. Sorry if in your eyes that makes me a chancer. Bear in mind float and set isn't done as much as it was in the 90's. Especially were I'm from. So its not so easy to get advice on it. Just asking some of the more experienced spreads about it.
 
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algeeman

It’s A Boy
Not a chancer at all mate. Asking advice on it as I never done it on a large scale. Sorry if in your eyes that makes me a chancer. Bear in mind float and set isn't done as much as it was in the 90's. Especially were I'm from.

Not a chancer at all mate. Asking advice on it as I never done it on a large scale. Sorry if in your eyes that makes me a chancer. Bear in mind float and set isn't done as much as it was in the 90's. Especially were I'm from.

excuse my drunkness.. .xx
 

malc

TPF Special Forces
A strong coat of pva will kill the suction . I float till around 11 and then skim the lot .if you don't pva the thermolites the suction is savage and the backing rules awful same with toughcoat

it does state on a bag of hardwall do not to apply hardwall to pva.
 

PlasterCraftDundee

Well-Known Member
Not a chancer at all mate. Asking advice on it as I never done it on a large scale. Sorry if in your eyes that makes me a chancer. Bear in mind float and set isn't done as much as it was in the 90's. Especially were I'm from.

You're right mate, its not possible to cover every aspect of the trade and know all the ins out of it. A lot of it is area specific, there's zero float and set done on new builds here, in fact there's hardly any dabbing as well, I have an idea on floor screeding but never done it before. However I do a lot of cornice work and know that not many do in this area
 

markla

Active Member
knock up enough hardwall first if your a one man band then blind the wall with first coat to kill suction then away you go,of course if you had a joddy mixer would be a lot easier for you. i love float and set.
 

Djr

Well-Known Member
it does state on a bag of hardwall do not to apply hardwall to pva.
I've put pva on plenty of thermolites to kill suction otherwise it tears and rules crap .other than that your only getting 2 bags on max before you got to rule it
 

Djr

Well-Known Member
Same with Browning and toughcoat .it's never once blown as thermolites have a good key
 

zombie

Private Member
@roysten

Personally I think your going to be up against it trying to control thermolites suction...

For me it would be dryline only..
 

markla

Active Member
Same with Browning and toughcoat .it's never once blown as thermolites have a good key
prefer tough coat to hardwall browning is crap should of been left in the eighties.
see it on the shelf i never give it a second look ever.
 

Djr

Well-Known Member
Once it's floated do smaller gauges of skim.that way it won't pull your arm off
 

Natwasere

Well-Known Member
I gotta sand and cement these fookers tomorrow ..... Not much experience with hard wall but get whatever water on the wall beforehand to try take some of the fizz out of it then 2 coat it as such as quick as possible.
 

Djr

Well-Known Member
Yes it's a ballache all round float and skim on thermolites. In fact it's a ballache full stop cos there's no one paying enough on leverage to do it here in manchester
 

Simon85

Well-Known Member
f**k thermo lite blocks. An absolute c**t of A thing, we have always used mortar on them here, thankfully only had one wall to do them with in two years. Haven't missed them.
 

essexandy

The Lake Governor
What on earth is a matter with you all?
I've float and set over lightweight blocks for most of my working life and I've NEVER wet the blocks down or PVA'd them.
Using box screeds you are always ruling of fresh wet gear, as well as being the most accurate method.
I know that there is less and less of this kind of work about but unless you are truly proficient in it I don't believe that you can call yourself a true plasterer.
That's not to knock people but IMHO a fact.
 

theclemo

Private Member
What on earth is a matter with you all?
I've float and set over lightweight blocks for most of my working life and I've NEVER wet the blocks down or PVA'd them.
Using box screeds you are always ruling of fresh wet gear, as well as being the most accurate method.
I know that there is less and less of this kind of work about but unless you are truly proficient in it I don't believe that you can call yourself a true plasterer.
That's not to knock people but IMHO a fact.
20170401_161414.png
 

Squarehead

Well-Known Member
Don't attempt to do it without thick pva coat or gyprime or sbr on the blocks first, will give you a nervous breakdown.
 

zombie

Private Member
Its the cracking in the future that's the problem IMO...

Can be a martyr as much as you want but when it could have all been avoided and drylined I just don't get it personally...

Only person that will get the blame will be the plasterer...

Its not always about who's got the biggest knob you've got to be realistic with these things

Jobs hard enough why the fook would you want to make it any harder!!!

Believe you me every other trade does what easiest for them selves its just spreads that want to be 10 men for some foolish reason!

Good luck
 

s61

Well-Known Member
What on earth is a matter with you all?
I've float and set over lightweight blocks for most of my working life and I've NEVER wet the blocks down or PVA'd them.
Using box screeds you are always ruling of fresh wet gear, as well as being the most accurate method.
I know that there is less and less of this kind of work about but unless you are truly proficient in it I don't believe that you can call yourself a true plasterer.
That's not to knock people but IMHO a fact.
With hardwall bullshit
 
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