Rendering a arch?

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Bones10

Bones10

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Lads I got the render the side of house but it has two chimneys going up around 3m high and 3m apart before they join together to make 1 big arch, what would you say best way to get good angles on arch for when I'm beading? Cheers lads
 
Could you not just form an arris ? it may take a little longer but if your not by yourself not that much ?
 
Bones10 said:
Yea did think about doing that but wasn't sure as never done it, if been done before that's a option
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You could set them in with render and use nails too as long as you keep it square allowing a coat of render both sides of the bead as you would normally do.
 
If the arch is well formed by the bricklayer the beads should work out handy enough for you , but an arch cut out of ply is fool proof really if the bricks are off . Nail it up and bring a lat down either side of it , plaster the inside of it and the next day strip the timber , tidy the arras up wit a stanley and finish the rest of the gable working it into the arras . I think the corner looks way better without the beads but everyone is different
 
moy83 said:
If the arch is well formed by the bricklayer the beads should work out handy enough for you , but an arch cut out of ply is fool proof really if the bricks are off . Nail it up and bring a lat down either side of it , plaster the inside of it and the next day strip the timber , tidy the arras up wit a stanley and finish the rest of the gable working it into the arras . I think the corner looks way better without the beads but everyone is different
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It can look better, depends on a few things ..but beads set on properly makes it job done but each idea has merit equally
 
Cut plastic beads as mentioned. Cuts about 30-40mm apart. On the outer edge the cuts will need to be 'v'ed. Stick in scratch coat and nail. If the joints are hard you may need masonry nails, if you cant get any use cable clips either temporary or if you can hammer flat.
 
i would use hardboard to form an arch. do the face first then the reveal ,after the face has gone hard enough to drop the hardboard .make sure you put some packing behind the hardboard so that you can finish the reveal to the arris without showing a joint.
we have just finished a wreck house for english heritage that had 6 arches on each wall and this was the method we used.
 
Never done it this way but just a suggestion , could you not use internal arch beads , I realise the thickness near the arris could pose a problem,but depending how u stick them u still might get 5 mm near the edges, just a thought
 
The way to deal with this depends on how tight the curve of the arch is. I've fitted beads round some fairly tight curves but have tackled others where I couldn't get an acceptable shape using a bead.
 
essexandy said:
The way to deal with this depends on how tight the curve of the arch is. I've fitted beads round some fairly tight curves but have tackled others where I couldn't get an acceptable shape using a bead.
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The arch is huge 3m wide and 1.5 high from start of bend to top of arch. If that makes sense?
 
I would tie a piece of string to a pencil and to a fixed point on the ground, let string out to desired radius 1.5m in this case, spin radius with pencil marking my cut on 3mm ply or hardboard, cut out with jig saw, carefully nail to finished face and form reveal/soffit, remove template and make good if required. Just as @malc described.
 
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BrummieTrev said:
I would tie a piece of string to a pencil and to a fixed point on the ground, let string out to desired radius 1.5m in this case, spin radius with pencil marking my cut on 3mm ply or hardboard, cut out with jig saw, carefully nail to finished face and form reveal/soffit, remove template and make good if required. Just as @malc described.
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A slate batten is good for this, doesn't stretch either :RpS_thumbup:
 
malc said:
i would use hardboard to form an arch. do the face first then the reveal ,after the face has gone hard enough to drop the hardboard .make sure you put some packing behind the hardboard so that you can finish the reveal to the arris without showing a joint.
we have just finished a wreck house for english heritage that had 6 arches on each wall and this was the method we used.
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@malc got any pics marra
 
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Artisan998 said:
@malc got any pics marra
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i shall try to put some pictures on i gave up last time i tried!
a wreck house, 200 hundred years ago there was as many shipwrecks as there are car crashes today. the goods that was washed up on shore where placed into a wreck house until the owner could collect. there are 2 wreck houses in brightlingsea, essex. the one that we rendered in lime, was right on the waterfront and got flooded out twice a day.and had been modified as a gun post in ww2.
 
I've used plastic stop beads in the past for a quick job or if the render is to be painted. But for a proper job I've always taken my time and cut a ply template and do the reveals first take the template away and do the face. I've managed to do it in one visit being careful.
 
Deri said:
I've used plastic stop beads in the past for a quick job or if the render is to be painted. But for a proper job I've always taken my time and cut a ply template and do the reveals first take the template away and do the face. I've managed to do it in one visit being careful.
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you say one visit. My question is whats best do reveal and match face in on same day or leave to dry and match in following day.
In my experience day after is difficult to match in cause of shrinkage.
 
yes I generally do the face and reveal in one day to match in better. it helps to have someone to help with holding a rule or guide up for you.
 
currymunster said:
you say one visit. My question is whats best do reveal and match face in on same day or leave to dry and match in following day.
In my experience day after is difficult to match in cause of shrinkage.
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we put all of the face on first, with a hardboard template ,packed out to receive the head at a later date. we finish to the hard arris, making sure that there is no joint for water penetration.
 
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