render over render

Members online

Total: 638 (members: 14, guests: 624)

Share this page

Status
Not open for further replies.
lazer

lazer

Active Member
just been asked to quote a rendering job, the house already has render on probably 20 years ago no cracks on it anywhere but the guys seen the webber website and wants that on. just wondering does old render have to come off or can i go straight over it.im abit green on rendering just worried it might fall off
 
Change it to parex use parinter as a scratch coat then use monorex over the top, same finish as webber
 
Hack it off and start again , why have the worry ,it is the right way ,and we all know it
 
lazer said:
just been asked to quote a rendering job, the house already has render on probably 20 years ago no cracks on it anywhere but the guys seen the webber website and wants that on. just wondering does old render have to come off or can i go straight over it.im abit green on rendering just worried it might fall off
Click to expand...

if your green at rendering why are you practicing on someones house.

but.. the render wants to come off if your proposing a through coloured render due to the excessive additional weight and the risk of delamination.
as said a thin coat system is you likely option, but if your not a renderer me suggesting a thin coat system is going to be as useful to you, as tits on a fish.
 
owls said:
if your green at rendering why are you practicing on someones house.

but.. the render wants to come off if your proposing a through coloured render due to the excessive additional weight and the risk of delamination.
as said a thin coat system is you likely option, but if your not a renderer me suggesting a thin coat system is going to be as useful to you, as tits on a fish.
Click to expand...
Owls you make me look polite :RpS_lol:
 
lazer said:
just been asked to quote a rendering job, the house already has render on probably 20 years ago no cracks on it anywhere but the guys seen the webber website and wants that on. just wondering does old render have to come off or can i go straight over it.im abit green on rendering just worried it might fall off
Click to expand...

Weber What though?

There are loads of finishes?

If it is like weber.sil TF150, Alpine, Weber.plast TF and DF then a thin coat over the top but there are just as good finishes elsewhere that are cheaper and with companies offering better customer relations.
 
Rigsby said:
Weber What though?

There are loads of finishes?

If it is like weber.sil TF150, Alpine, Weber.plast TF and DF then a thin coat over the top but there are just as good finishes elsewhere that are cheaper and with companies offering better customer relations.
Click to expand...
Does a alarm go off on you pc when someone types in weber :RpS_confused: only having fun with you mate ,hope your do well and keeping busy :RpS_thumbup:
 
lazer said:
just been asked to quote a rendering job, the house already has render on probably 20 years ago no cracks on it anywhere but the guys seen the webber website and wants that on. just wondering does old render have to come off or can i go straight over it.im abit green on rendering just worried it might fall off
Click to expand...
You could go over render with thin coat system-I have been using JUB.First apply scrim adhesive bed in mesh. Prime, then top coat with pre-coloured say 1.5mm textured render, job done. Only if the base render is sound should this been used.
 
owls said:
if your green at rendering why are you practicing on someones house.

but.. the render wants to come off if your proposing a through coloured render due to the excessive additional weight and the risk of delamination.
as said a thin coat system is you likely option, but if your not a renderer me suggesting a thin coat system is going to be as useful to you, as tits on a fish.
Click to expand...
Doubt it there shouldn't be any problems if the backings sound, you could create evn more problems hacking off and damaging the bricks/blocks behind
Also why are people advising thin coat he doesnt want it?
 
6-10 mm plastic angle beads dabbed on, 10mm drips fitted as tight as. Parinter scratch coat with weber mesh then monorex/pral m topcoat of 6-7mm. Be bombproof if base is sound.
 
I would have more faith in prepping sound flat render and a modern thin coat system than hacking off. With hacking off you have the risk of rapid hydration and cracking problems as with a modern thin coat system done in the shade jobs a gud-un!
 
spunky said:
Doubt it there shouldn't be any problems if the backings sound, you could create evn more problems hacking off and damaging the bricks/blocks behind
Also why are people advising thin coat he doesnt want it?
Click to expand...

I agree about the possible damage caused by hacking off that's why I put forward an acrylic idea.
, how do you know he doesn't want it?he hasn't been introduced to the idea
parex will not warranty a through coloured system over an existing rendered substrate
 
Guys ive got same problem here.il post pic tomorow, thing is its rendered in sand cement spanish finish and painted. Some parts are blown. Customer been advised to hack all 200m and krend to match section done very badly before hand.
Im thinking., all lose off, scabble couple mm off everything , patch back up, then thincoat over the top.
Thoughts please
 
Weight issues can be minimized, by using the cheapest carrier board available( 20-30mm EPS), then choose from the complete range of systems on the market for whatever finish you require...just as quick as hacking off without the hassle of removing rubble etc..with the added benefits of improved U values
 
owls said:
I agree about the possible damage caused by hacking off that's why I put forward an acrylic idea.
, how do you know he doesn't want it?he hasn't been introduced to the idea
parex will not warranty a through coloured system over an existing rendered substrate
Click to expand...

I don't care mate honest I couldn't give a flying **** lol
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top