render on ply

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smarts

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Iv got a job half brick and half ply he wants weber pral m coloured render
Is it possible to mesh and rend aid over both the brick and ply then top with the coloured render or would it be best to use stainless steel mesh on the ply then rend aid
 
You make it sound simple.... eml over both and scratch render over it all....

It will craze and Crack at the joint and then all over the ply......

Aquapanel Exterior over the ply, weber lac and mesh then render this, render the brick. But have a movement joint between the 2
 
I'm doing a job just now, single storey extension. Above the 4 metre bi fold door the builders have plyed and stapled building paper to it. I've screwed rib lath and coated it in hp12 then completely meshed it. This no good then? Not been topped yet so could still get them to change it. It's about 300mm from bifold doors to Sofit.
 
stuart23 said:
I'm doing a job just now, single storey extension. Above the 4 metre bi fold door the builders have plyed and stapled building paper to it. I've screwed rib lath and coated it in hp12 then completely meshed it. This no good then? Not been topped yet so could still get them to change it. It's about 300mm from bifold doors to Sofit.
Click to expand...

If that is what the builder has told you to do, or the Architect / client has instructed...... then that us their choice.

It is the old method. There are now easier, thinner, lighter and more robust methods of doing this sort of rendering onto a timber frame, using products and systems that did not exist 10 or 15 years ago.....

Who are we to say what is better..... ply, paper, EML and multi S&C layers have been used for years - it is just progress and modern products
 
Runswithscissors said:
If that is what the builder has told you to do, or the Architect / client has instructed...... then that us their choice.

It is the old method. There are now easier, thinner, lighter and more robust methods of doing this sort of rendering onto a timber frame, using products and systems that did not exist 10 or 15 years ago.....

Who are we to say what is better..... ply, paper, EML and multi S&C layers have been used for years - it is just progress and modern products
Click to expand...

Thanks mate, puts my mind at rest.
 
Runswithscissors said:
If that is what the builder has told you to do, or the Architect / client has instructed...... then that us their choice.

It is the old method. There are now easier, thinner, lighter and more robust methods of doing this sort of rendering onto a timber frame, using products and systems that did not exist 10 or 15 years ago.....

Who are we to say what is better..... ply, paper, EML and multi S&C layers have been used for years - it is just progress and modern products
Click to expand...

Do you think I should put an expansion bead where ply meets block then? I've overlapped the lath onto the block work and meshed right across it as well.
 

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stuart23 said:
Do you think I should put an expansion bead where ply meets block then? I've overlapped the lath onto the block work and meshed right across it as well.
Click to expand...

What is the ply behind fixed to?

If timber frame, best have a movement joint. If just a packer above the window fixed to the block work, then stress patch the joints heavily....

Usually, applying render to different sub - straights mean it best to have a movement joint. It is always a high risk crack point at window and door corners anyway.
 
Is it a full K Rend system you are going to apply?

Give them a call to confirm, it will be them that will help and or deal with issues in the long run......

You are not using my products, so not like you can refer to me if you have an issue..... I understand it is peace of mind, but how much peace of mind do you need? Lol

Good luck
 
stuart23 said:
I'm doing a job just now, single storey extension. Above the 4 metre bi fold door the builders have plyed and stapled building paper to it. I've screwed rib lath and coated it in hp12 then completely meshed it. This no good then? Not been topped yet so could still get them to change it. It's about 300mm from bifold doors to Sofit.
Click to expand...
Use a render which is polymer based and is flexible and you should be fine.(y)
stuart23 said:
Yes full system, I'll give them a call next week.
Click to expand...
i don't think you need yo worry about a small panel that size mate
Full timer frame extensions,new builds etc is a bit different
 
stuart23 said:
I'm doing a job just now, single storey extension. Above the 4 metre bi fold door the builders have plyed and stapled building paper to it. I've screwed rib lath and coated it in hp12 then completely meshed it. This no good then? Not been topped yet so could still get them to change it. It's about 300mm from bifold doors to Sofit.
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with that. Mesh around the window will do . And stress patches
 
If you have any problems with it..... you will have to get a patent "BeddyBubble" replacement from @beddy

Take care though, they tend to burst in the post..... might be good to buy a few and get them delivery in a "BeddyBox"
 
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