Rendaid etc ?

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irish_spread

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Did a Tyrolean job for an ethnic person about 6yrs ago who had got a fellow ethnic to render a new build 2 storey wrap around extension. Told the guy at the time the render was allready blown but he wouldn't accept I was telling the truth etc.

anyways, he phoned on Thursday to say the 'wind' had blown the render off (kid u not!!!) and he wants it rendered properly. He's a barrister so is going to sue the builder but it looks like said builder has gone back to the sub continent .

need a bib and braces way to make sure new render will not blow off previously rendered breeze blocks.
Normally I'd do a 1:1 slurry with SBR, then scud but have never used Rendaid and wondered would that be better ?

thanks in advance peeps
 
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leebo02

Well-Known Member
i normally do it with sbr slurry aswell, never had any probs yet touch wood,,, could he sue the builder after 6 years for blown rendering ??????
 

leebo02

Well-Known Member
i know it depends on the how long a guarantee , i thought about 4 years was the normal for work like that
 

irish_spread

Private Member
Not sure if he can sue or not but you know what that lot are like about money. The cracks started coming thru the tyro after a few months and being the blocks are gonna be as dry as one of their sandals I don't want to take any chances
 

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
I would use rend-aid fully meshed if I was using another Weber product on top like ocr (maybe meshed) and cullamix. Otherwise like you said sbr and scud with s&c and tyro lean. Make sure the blocks are well clean and not sodden wet. Consider mesh or fibres?

Going down the Weber route would as above should give you some back up if things went wrong but sadly Weber would only back themselves up!

Are the blocks Celcons or Thermalite? If so mention they are the wrong type for rendering just to give yourself a get out clause.
 

irish_spread

Private Member
Cheers Rigsby, kinda thought Weber etc might back themselves up. From what I remember the blocks were blue and should be quite clean as I'm sure the render never keyed onto them properly.
I had intended to render them with S/c (after SBR and scud).
I have a role of mesh left over from a previous job but I'm not sure about using it with normal s+c. In my opinion, the 'gaps' in the mesh aren't big enough, I always use fibres in the scratch tho
 

johniosaif

Private Member
If its thermalite or such like ,I would scud with sbr in the water at3/1 sand cement 3/1, then scratch with a mix ratio f six sand one cement ,just plastizer in mix, and fibres,leave for a week ,then float with sand cement lime,6/1/1 with half amount of fibres, one handful per mix, re mesh, depends if there's cracks in the blocks or not..
 

leebo02

Well-Known Member
Not sure if he can sue or not but you know what that lot are like about money. The cracks started coming thru the tyro after a few months and being the blocks are gonna be as dry as one of their sandals I don't want to take any chances
lol:RpS_laugh::RpS_laugh:
 

irish_spread

Private Member
Don't think there are cracks in the blocks and I'm a bit dubious about the green mesh I've used in the past (maybe the wrong one for s+c .?,green stuff, gap size seems too small ?).

have to say I would NEVER go as weak as 6:1 on a scratch but that's me personally. The idea of behind able to scratch it off with my fingernails worries me :RpS_scared:
 

johniosaif

Private Member
Don't think there are cracks in the blocks and I'm a bit dubious about the green mesh I've used in the past (maybe the wrong one for s+c .?,green stuff, gap size seems too small ?).

have to say I would NEVER go as weak as 6:1 on a scratch but that's me personally. The idea of behind able to scratch it off with my fingernails worries me :RpS_scared:
I do all the time, plenty strong enough , same strength as all the pre bagged stuff
 

malc

TPF Special Forces
you could cover the blocks in rib lath and 3 coat render in sand and cement. one of our best earners!
 

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
6:1:1 would be hard enough here but Ireland is a wet Country. Maybe 10:2:1? The 4mm mesh is too small for a coarse sand and cement I use 8mm but fibres are a good alternative. The scratch between coats is also important. Wavy not straight! But when I was in Eire they tend to use a stiff brush for a key?
 

johniosaif

Private Member
6:1:1 would be hard enough here but Ireland is a wet Country. Maybe 10:2:1? The 4mm mesh is too small for a coarse sand and cement I use 8mm but fibres are a good alternative. The scratch between coats is also important. Wavy not straight! But when I was in Eire they tend to use a stiff brush for a key?
He is based here rigsby..
 

irish_spread

Private Member
6:1:1 would be hard enough here but Ireland is a wet Country. Maybe 10:2:1? The 4mm mesh is too small for a coarse sand and cement I use 8mm but fibres are a good alternative. The scratch between coats is also important. Wavy not straight! But when I was in Eire they tend to use a stiff brush for a key?


Im in London, regularly use 6/1/1 but wouldn't be happy bout 6:1. Rib lath would be ideal but would bring it out beyond quoins, plus the guy is Asian so no chance of paying for rib lath and ss rib lath would give him a heart attack
Thanks for all the suggestions lads, think I'll go down the water down, roll on SBR 1/1 mix, scud, scratch 4/1 (yep with a yard brush ) and rub up 5:1 then tyro. Bit worried about using lime under tyro, lime bloom and all that
 

malc

TPF Special Forces
Need someone to pay for it, think that's a non runner here. Not even getting out of the stalls...

the client is a barrister, so he would be on top money. he has already made the mistake by employing monkeys, so i would give him a quality job and a quality price.
 

johniosaif

Private Member
Im in London, regularly use 6/1/1 but wouldn't be happy bout 6:1. Rib lath would be ideal but would bring it out beyond quoins, plus the guy is Asian so no chance of paying for rib lath and ss rib lath would give him a heart attack
Thanks for all the suggestions lads, think I'll go down the water down, roll on SBR 1/1 mix, scud, scratch 4/1 (yep with a yard brush ) and rub up 5:1 then tyro. Bit worried about using lime under tyro, lime bloom and all that
4/1 is to strong for celcons,
 

malc

TPF Special Forces
you need extra lime in the render so that the tyrolean finish pulls in quickly with no runs. i have never seen lime bloom on render ,only on stone dash when they have used a low quality stone
 
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Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
Lime is a must for Cullamix. Lime bloom will happen even without lime in the mix.

Lime bloom happens on coloured render when the air is wet. It is a reaction with the increased CO2 in the air and a chemical in the cement. Avoid applying tyro lean if it is going to rain within 48 hrs. I put it in my small print about lime bloom.
 

irish_spread

Private Member
you need extra lime in the render so that the tyrolean finish pulls in quickly with no runs. i have never seen lime bloom on ,only on stone dash when they have used a low quality stone

I normally put 1st coat of tyro as soon as I have finished rubbing up, wet on wet so to speak and then wet down and re coat following day. I've found using cullamix seems to bloom more with lime in rubbing up coat
 

irish_spread

Private Member
Lime is a must for Cullamix. Lime bloom will happen even without lime in the mix.

Lime bloom happens on coloured render when the air is wet. It is a reaction with the increased CO2 in the air and a chemical in the cement. Avoid applying tyro lean if it is going to rain within 48 hrs. I put it in my small print about lime bloom.

thanks for that Rigsby, didn't know that. On this particular job I was planning on using a special s/c coloured tyro :)RpS_biggrin:) cos the whole property will need repainting anyways.

very expensive, the home made stuff
 
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malc

TPF Special Forces
thanks for that Rigsby, didn't know that. On this particular job I was planning on using a special s/c coloured tyro :)RpS_biggrin:) cos the whole property will need repainting anyways.

very expensive, the home made stuff

i would spray s and c. a fine spray , complete the spray on wetrender, easy money
 

church

Well-Known Member
Sbr slurry , stainless eml with stainless fixings , 3 coat s&c render with fibres, sovereign W/P
 

johniosaif

Private Member
Even on known property I would not use stainless steel ribbed or otherwise unless it was structurally necessary, not many people would want to pay for it. It's ok for council jobs ,housing assoc properties but the general builder or public, no chance unless they are minted
 

Arti

Well-Known Member
I thought everyone was minted in the big smoke...streets paved with gold an all that

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johniosaif

Private Member
I thought everyone was minted in the big smoke...streets paved with gold an all that

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" we are on a budget" is a commonly used phrase here, ordinary people with a newly purchased property finding out why it was cheaper than similar properties and not having the requisite funding to bring it up to scratch, really rich people laughing at trades working for crumbs, lots of English builders will only hire East European ,better work ethic( cheaper) if you advertise a job here hundreds reply to the smallest construction work,huge amount of embedded foreign workforce, motorways for the northeners to come and undercut us..
 

bubbles65

Well-Known Member
If they're 'on a budget' just tell them that if they can't meet your budget then get someone else. Don't worry about being cheeky to them, they fkin started it :RpS_thumbup:
Personally wouldn't waste too much time on this one Eddie, you're under no obligation marra :RpS_thumbup:
 

Arti

Well-Known Member
Agreed. The price is the price. There will always be someone cheaper.....fu@k em

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