remove old bonding from wall

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angrysmurf

New Member
Hi everyone

I'd like to ask for an informed opinion on whether or not I should remove old bonding from my walls in preparation for some soundproofing treatment. I live in an old 1920s block in a small 1 bedroom flat, all the walls are brick and the ceilings and floors are concrete. Its very noisy so I've decided to treat some of the surfaces with soundproof panels.

The problem is that these materials will significantly reduce my wall space so I was thinking of having the old bonding stripped back to bare brick walls before adding the soundproof materials. Is this advisable or even possible? It looks like it would involve a lot of work but I'd like to get some tips from anyone who has attempted such a thing.

The bonding is about 10mm thick. Let me know what other details would help.

Thanks in advance to anyone who responds.
 

angrysmurf

New Member
hi there

the panels are made by a company called phonewell, they are 1200x800mm and 15mm thick. They have to be covered by 12.5mm or 15mm "blue" plasterboard (the type used in soundproofing). So the total would be 27.5mm

thanks for answering
 

flynnyman

Well-Known Member
i wouldnt bother your taking ten mill of sound protection off and its hard work plus what about your neighbours putting up with all that banging, some people have no consideration. :)
 

napper83

Private Member
leave the bonding in place you will get pi$$ed off after about 1 sq mtr and and it only means your losing less than 1 inch around your perimiter
 

Chris W

Well-Known Member
completely agree..
id be interested to know how the plasterboard is fixed to the panels btw..
any links?
 

Chris W

Well-Known Member
s'alright, found it...
http://www.acaraconcepts.com/Soundproofing%20Walls/Direct%20to%20Wall%20soundproofing%20solution.html

looks ok to me, i'd make sure your existing walls are sound and not too porous then foam away..

although im not the worlds biggest fan of using foam to fix boards the general crack is to foam the wall, let it just grab the panel/board, let it go a bit THEN wack it flat..

then secondary fix

then skim it, job done...

any chance you could let us know how much it improves the sound transmission? cheers..
 

angrysmurf

New Member
Im very grateful for your comments.

It seems like removing bonding would be a tough job. I'm not looking to do every single wall, just the main wall in my bedroom and living room where "flanking" sounds travel from other flats. They are about 2.6mx3.8m.

Lets say in theory I asked my neighbours for indulgence, how long do you think it would take and how much should I pay? I guess it would take a lot of elbow grease, would a bolster chisel be enough or would you use a hammer drill?

The panels cost between £25-£30 so they are not cheap. I will let you know how much of a difference this will make noise level wise.
 

oasis

New Member
well best bet would be to hire a skip and get 2 young lads in for £50 in the hand a day and let um lose for a day or 2! with hand tools or hire a bit of kit?
 

angrysmurf

New Member
warriorupnorth said:
Are you doing the ceilings as well


Well I will do 1 ceiling but there is no bonding on it, its solid concrete. It does have artex on it but I cant be sure if its the old artex with asbestos.
 

warriorupnorth

Private Member
Would not go down the route of chipping it all off , just go over the top of exist, are you using resi bars on the ceiling ?
 

Chris W

Well-Known Member
leave the artex on too.. use that resilient bar, artex and asbestos is fine as long as you leave it alone..
wozza beat me to it ;D
 

angrysmurf

New Member
warriorupnorth said:
Would not go down the route of chipping it all off , just go over the top of exist, are you using resi bars on the ceiling ?

yes thats right I will be using resilient bars. Im concerned about the lumpyness of the artex, its not very very thick but the resilient bars are supposed to be installed on a flat surface (unless you say otherwise?). In which case I can either scrape as much of the spikes flat and then screw the res bars in, or skim the ceiling which means I must get a plasterer in because thats no job for an amateur like me!

Could you take a look at a closeup Ive taken of the stuff on my walls, is this old fashioned bonding or render, I cant identify it?
 

Chris W

Well-Known Member
it looks to me like a kind of rough render topped off with what could be bonding then skimmed..
where youve hacked off there seems to be 3 coats... including the finish..
but this is a 1920's house you say?
gypsum backers hadnt been invented then had they?

either way.. looking at it, long as its sound i'd just hardwall it back up and stick your sound insulation over the top...

some of these old houses, once theyve been hacked off the brickwork all starts to come loose as the render was holding it all together, unless your thinking of re-rendering it you may well open a can of worms you wish you hadnt..
 

del

Member
angrysmurf said:
warriorupnorth said:
Would not go down the route of chipping it all off , just go over the top of exist, are you using resi bars on the ceiling ?

yes thats right I will be using resilient bars. Im concerned about the lumpyness of the artex, its not very very thick but the resilient bars are supposed to be installed on a flat surface (unless you say otherwise?). In which case I can either scrape as much of the spikes flat and then screw the res bars in, or skim the ceiling which means I must get a plasterer in because thats no job for an amateur like me!

Could you take a look at a closeup Ive taken of the stuff on my walls, is this old fashioned bonding or render, I cant identify it?
Looks like concrete with granite chippings to me, hard as feck i reckon, I'd leave it on there and go over the top.
 

skimmin2day

Active Member
I wouldnt even bother going to the expense of adding sound proofing to a little bedsit.
Total waste of money mate in my opinion,most the low to medium cost sound proofing is a waste of time and does not warrant the cost,ud be better off spending ur money on lager and whores.
You will never re coup the cost of it EVER!!!
 

angrysmurf

New Member
The building is actually a block of flats. The job is in central london.

Please keep your comments constructive even if they are critical.
 

warriorupnorth

Private Member
You got your answer about a dozen posts back angry , now it's the weekend it's 12 midnight , the beers flowin and it's play time , chill out ;)
 

spunky

Private Member
booze and whores...........booze and whores.................we all love booze and whores :)
 

pftmonojetman

Private Member
Some neighbours have no consideration for others mine are a pain in the ass, i cant hear myself drilling sometimes ::) ::)
 

beddy

Well-Known Member
angrysmurf said:
The building is actually a block of flats. The job is in central london.

Please keep your comments constructive even if they are critical.

angry, you're wasting your time telling this lot to be serious, they'll give you your answer then its followed by nonsense, its how we roll haha
 

Nisus

Elite Member
What we've done before is hack off.
Then a coat of sound coat, at least 6-8mm
then dab 15mm soundblock boards on.
So depending on how thick your dabs are your looking at around 30-50mm overall thickness.
 

angrysmurf

New Member
Nisus said:
What we've done before is hack off.
Then a coat of sound coat, at least 6-8mm
then dab 15mm soundblock boards on.
So depending on how thick your dabs are your looking at around 30-50mm overall thickness.

Thanks Nisus, forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by hack off, does that mean hack the render off the walls off? If so using which tools? I came across something called an electric chipping hammer, what do you think?

Can you tell me a little more about what you mean by sound coat, do you mean put a coat of bonding on the exposed brickwork?

Thanks for taking the time to reply!
 

oasis

New Member
are you planning on doing this work your self? if your not sure how to take bonding off a wall this might end up a mess?you would be better off paying out for some who does this for a living :)
 

Nisus

Elite Member
[/quote]

Thanks Nisus, forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by hack off, does that mean hack the render off the walls off? If so using which tools? I came across something called an electric chipping hammer, what do you think?

Can you tell me a little more about what you mean by sound coat, do you mean put a coat of bonding on the exposed brickwork?

Thanks for taking the time to reply!
[/quote]

Here is a bit of info to answer your questions:
1) By hack off i mean hack off the render/plaster anyway you can by using a lump hammer & bolster or hire a tool for the job like a sds chisel drill with wide chisel attachment etc..
2) http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...ries/gyproc_accessories/gyproc_soundcoat.aspx
3) http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/LIT_GyprocSoundcoatPlus.pdf
 

angrysmurf

New Member
Thanks Oasis - You are quite right I am planning to hire someone, its a major pain and I am already negotiating with my neighbours to get it done as fast as possible. I'm just doing my research.

Thanks Nisis - That might be just the product I'm looking for to cover the exposed brickwork before laying down soundproof measures. May I ask, have you used this before? What difference in your opinion did it make soundwise?
 
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