Re dab damp wall?

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Hello lads, got 10 metre long wall to re dab and skim old boards was water damaged from a leaking roof so removed all the boards and about to redab but it's slightly still damp. Had heat on there seems to be drying out. Builders now asking for a scratch with waterproofer then re dab. What would yous suggest?
 
The builder has suggested this as he wants a barrier between the boards and the damp wall.
 
surely if the builder wants a scratch coat first and is willing to pay for it then go for it. Just make sure the leaking roof has been fixed first .
 
Could you not just fix the roof first so the primary source is no longer there, leave a dehumidifier in for a while to dry out then board as normal ?
 
I don't see the point in a scratch either plus It's the time waiting for it to dry to dab. Any reasons to help me change his mind?
Yes tell him that you are the plasterer and if he does not like what you are telling him then he should get a fireman in to do it.
 
Just tell him if he wants the dabs to show threw you will crack on with what he wants

Why would it show through? Its a leak not a damp problem. Once the leak is fixed and it's dried out it can be plastered how ever the builder/plasterer chooses
 
Plus if its only slightly damp its no different to wetting an old dusty wall prior to dabbing
Itll still dry out
 
It doesn't need battens or scratch. Hes established its a leaky roof, if that gets fixed and room is dried then board as normal. the builder is trying to fix a problem that isn't there.
 
Why would it show through? Its a leak not a damp problem. Once the leak is fixed and it's dried out it can be plastered how ever the builder/plasterer chooses

theres a good chance they will show through as the brick work has had un treated water in them so the salts could come through.
 
my thinking was the roof has been leaking for a while there for saturating the wall requiring more time to dry out. which i was thinking thats why the builder was asking for a scratch with water proofer to try hold back the damp walls.

but to save the hassel i think they will be ok drying the room out and boarding as normal as long as roof repaired.
 
depends on the amount of ingress into the brick and the time it has been soaking in, it could be very different to a splash from a brush
 
It is block lads hes had roofers back and forth about 4 times and cant find nothing. had dry heaters and dehumidifiers there, it drys out but then seems to come back (obviously still leaking)
So he's just looking for a way to stop it coming back through.yes I agree if the leak was fixed it would dry out and could be dabbed as normal But they cant seem to find a problem with the roof so I think dpm and batton is the one but it's just persuading him this is better than his scratch with waterproofer
 
Fire a some clear mastic in the hole after you put raw plug in but before the screw, to seal it up........:RpS_wink:

But when you drill and fix the plug sits tight in the timber and is pushed into the hole by the screw and hammer. How can you get any silicon in the hole when its full of plug?
 
Going off your last post liverpool-plasterer, tell him u can only advise what to do and then if theres any come backs ur covered if he doesnt agree. If u scratched it and dri lined it and the water ingress is very bad in th brick work then theres a good chance the dabs will suck the moisture out, cause condensation between the origanal wall and the board , hence black spot mould showing through where all the dabs are on the skimmed side. Either batten out as suggested earliar, use a tanking system and double your money when it doesnt need doing because its a roof problem or why not scratch, top coat s/c and skim?
 
Going off your last post liverpool-plasterer, tell him u can only advise what to do and then if theres any come backs ur covered if he doesnt agree. If u scratched it and dri lined it and the water ingress is very bad in th brick work then theres a good chance the dabs will suck the moisture out, cause condensation between the origanal wall and the board , hence black spot mould showing through where all the dabs are on the skimmed side. Either batten out as suggested earliar, use a tanking system and double your money when it doesnt need doing because its a roof problem or why not scratch, top coat s/c and skim?

so is this waterproof scratch not going to act as a barrier?
 
Yes but its only a scratch coat and it sounds like there rushing u. You can only do what they tell u pal if the pressure is on. I was rendering in the snow the other week! Make sure when u scratch it not to break through your scratch coat to expose the brick work. Just a gentle scratch to key in your dabs of adesive...
ps- It wouldnt be any longer on your part but the drying out time would be, if u scratch it and wait till the next day to dri line and skim or you coud scratch and top one day and skim the next. Let us know how u get on and what method he went with.
 
thanks mate you think a sbr cement slurry would act as a barrier for dabbing? im not into the idea of scratch and dab, seems pointless. if im going to scratch id want to top.
 
But the damp source isn't fixed mate :confused: All the builder is trying to do is hide the problem because he cant find it in the first place. When it goes tits up and the customer whinges about it, itll be you that gets bad named by the builder. Its your name on the job, tel him to fix the problem then you can just get on and board it normally.
 
I know mate good point. They still can't seem to find the problem. He seems to think its still drying out. He obviously just wants it done! He's not keen on the stud idea so I've told him his scratch with waterproofer isn't going to make the wall "waterproof" so now he's suggesting a sbr slurry and dab...is this a better idea??
 
I wouldn't do either mate, its like sticking your head in the sand, and hiding the problem. If he doesn't fix the source of water first then itl be you that gets slated when it goes wrong.
 
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