Raising Damp

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chris16

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Can anyone help?

Been asked to do a job which has a serious damp problem the customer has tried allsorts to get rid but apparently there is nothing that can be done, they have asked be to try and tidy it up l was wonder if there is any sort of damp retardant that can be put onto the bricks to try and slow it down, l was going to use dri-coat as the backing coat, the customer is going to paper the wall so not even bothered if it is skimed can you paper onto dri-coat or do you have to skim

Thanks

Chris :-/
 
Sounds like one for Bigsegs.
Sounds bit strange to me. I'm no damp expert but it's gotta be coming from somewhere. Maybe the issue is there's nothing can be done they are willing to pay for.

If damp is ever an issue I'd use S&C with waterproofer and skim.

No way I'd guarantee it though but make sure they know that.

Segs?
:)
 
It looks like the damp is coming from the water table which seams to have risen over the last few years, the house is a 100 years plus so no damp course was put it, theye have had quite alot of work done to try and stop it but it just keeps coming back they know it will come back l was just hoping to try and give them as long as possible its only a small alcove that is being done so they are not to fussed what it looks like
 
Well if they are happy to accept all that and no guarantee I'd do what I said and S&C float and skim it using waterproofer in the S&C. My understanding is that dri coat goes over damp proofing but I've never used it and may be wrong.

Not sure whether there's anything else you could do like tanking etc. As I say I knw nothing about damproofing. Or tanking TBH!

Any ideas chaps?
 
is the wall below ground level,have you considered battoning and boarding the wall,having worked for a dampproofing company in the past for a few years should be able to help you out,if the wall is below ground level and there is no visable signs of water ingress a cementious tanking should cure the problem ,
alternative if the wall is above ground level would suggest using tanolised battons and put 4"plastic dpc behind battons to stop any damp getting to the battons and use foilback boards,if it is on a outside wall fit an air brick top and bottom to get some air circulation behind the boards
 
The wall is above ground level and not near a chimney breast it is an old external wall and does have an air brick at the bottom the work is below a dado rail so l can't use battons.

This may seem like a stupid question but could l dot and dab leaving a 25mm gap at the bottom.

I do have some brick and masonary sealer but it doesn't give me alot of info on the tub
 
forgot to mention the customer said the whole house is like it, she has a pump under the floor in the living room which they have to use on a regular basis to pump the water out
 
If it is it's not very good, it lets water in ;D

It's a old railway cottage there's about a dozen, there has been alot of building work in the area and they think this has affected the water table it's only been in the last few years they have had problems and the cottages are over a 100 years old

I was hoping there would be some sort of chemical treatment l could paint onto the bricks, she knows l can't stop the damp l was just hoping it would last a good few years before it came back

I think l might be p***ing into the wind with this one
 
i take it its timber floor then, which is what the airbrick outside is for..
if they need a pump to keep the place dry anything you do short of injectin it first is gonna be hard work...tanking the bricks from below dpc to dado rail would help, long as it gets 3 coats but i wonder if it might send the damp higher up the wall?
that said, it depends on how much cash they wanna part with, nothin stoppin u injectin it, you can hire the pump, drill, and chemical from any good hire centre, done by the book it should do the trick, end of problem...
120 quid will cover your machines and chemical, labour is up to you, allow yourself 2 days if you aint done it before...
 
gotta admit, does sound iffy, i dont think a bit of building work is gonna raise the water table, thought maybe global warming might be in with a chance...
burst/collapsed something or other does seem to be more like it...if it doesnt stink, it isnt foul...
 
If its a railway cottage in a cutting, its hardly surprising, given weather past couple of years. Injecting will help, but if water comes to within about 700mm of floor level, the floor will be driftwood in a few years. :eek:
 
When l was speaking to the customer they said the house had been injected in the past they have also had some sort of ceramic tubes fitted in the walls, the area has under ground drains and natural springs it wouldn't surprise me if a builder in the past has moved one of these drains then with all the flooding we've had in the past (it's in Hull) it has affected the water table, the customer is fully aware of the problem they just wanted a smoth wall so thet can put wall paper on, l was just hoping to be able to do some thing for them.

Looks like it's going to have to be S&C, (l always hate using this stuff can never seem to get it right)

:'( :'(
 
nice...well they do say cement sets reeeal hard underwater :D
bods gotta nice trick - prolly down the pub now...scratch it in s/c, plenty waterproofer then d+d or dricoat over...
 
why would you put dri coat on S&C scratch coat, why not just use S&C. is it because dri coat is easier to use
 
saves money, dri coats not too cheap compared to s+c but its a lot easier to use apparently
 
Dri-coat is easy use, its about £10-£13 a bag and only covers about 3.5sqm but it goes on nice and doesn't crack and you don't have to pva the wall before just spray it with water ;D
 
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