question for ritmo users

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nickelarse

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iv been asked to price quite a few private mono jobs recently. from ur experiences, what gear sprays nicest through the ritmo and which do you find you get a better finish from? also which is most cost effective?

how many bags do u average through a clamp render r+s?

this is just so i can get a better idea when pricing for them as i am new to the mono thing

also, as long as its new blockwork, do u always just do it in 2 passes with mesh? do u stick all beads one day, spray the next or bead and spray same day? and whats the approximate going rate for this labour? cheers
 
nick the cheapest render ive come across is ecorend, but the xl doesn't like it compared to other renders. Parex monorex is good dependable stuff which is a joy to work on the wall. You only mesh stress areas. You can do it on one pass if you like too, and do an area to completion as you go, with two passes you go from top to bottom but making sure that there's no chance of the thickness of that first pass breaking through the finish layer when scratching back which is when you get halo or doughnuts as they're known
 
Best I've sprayed is k-rend e grade and the cheapest, don't know how many bags a r&s will do because we spray different products with same set up, e grade pumps a 6-8 bar that's nice. We spray and then fill in between the bands again as we go along no chance of ghosting/halos, get as much as is humanly possible for labour. And allways allways bead with HPX allways ;)
 
last e grade job we done we got 18 pallets out of d42, needs to be on a base coat tho imo,
 
personally if i could id bead the lot but you do risk beads getting nocked off, i wouldnt bead the same day unless youre desperate mate the weight of the gear can nock them off, if you dont go mental spraying you get a couple of hours to bead
 
Mc Plaster
You say you use HPX to stick beads on what is this. or can anbody else tell me what this is.
 
Just out of interest we have all raved about euro mix cpi but has anyone tried euro mixes mono ?
 
yeah, not used loads but thought it was ok ,quite a slow setter, sprays well , and cheap ;D
 
ok so parex, marmorit or krend. does nobody like weber then?

when you say only mesh stress points, i assume u mean corners of doors and windows etc?

i thought 2 passes was the done things? how thick can you spray if doing in 1 pass? 15mm?

does the dry gear uv used on the beads make any difference to the gear when it goes over it?
 
Weber is ok mate it's not the best but we haven't had any problem with it yes just mesh round the corners and no the dry stuff doesn't affect it
 
ive only ever sprayed in one pass nick....but others do it in two. Might be worth someone going into a little detail on the two pass option to give you a better idea. With one pass it goes on 17-18mm no probs if your ribbons are the right thickness ie., speed you move the gun and distance from wall etc. les sells precut purple stress patches that are shaped like chevrons for around corners of doors and windows but you can just cut good quality grade mesh too.
 
Depends on what mood weber are in grand 1 minuteits all the way round then it's just across the opening then it's something else, spraying in 2 passes is easier IMO spray it a little wetter give it one pass then turn back and spray it again if it's a big enough panel just do your 2 passes as you bring it down if it's a small panel then first coat it all then turn back and top it off
 
Slap it on there if they want to pay for it. If that's what they want let hem have it, it may be they think the mesh will hold the concrete blocks together if there is movement, it would be Blonesey strong mesh to do that :). Settlement happens.
 
we do alot of timber framed houses and we have to leave the soffit bead 25mm down from the soffit to allow for settlement , and weve had soffit beads blown off before the roof has settled that much! hate to think how much a fully tiled roof weighs sitting on top of a timber frame
 
We dont do it here but in Germany and europe they would specify to leave the building settle and then for the plasterers to return maybe a year later to finish the render. They may put a base coat on to weathertight things.
Many of the plastering firms over there have their own scaffold which is brilliant to work off and a doddle to errect so there isnt a massive cost implication.

Be nice to know that you have your next year sorted for work though wouldn't it
 
used to work in ireland a bit doin s&c renders all 3 coat work, each coat was left 3 to 4 weeks to cure and finished render was left over a month before being stablized and painted , never cracked and paint never pealed, would be nice to do your own scaffold ,the sites we do the blockworks proberly been finished 2 or 3 days before we render them,lol
 
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