Plum, dot and screed :-)

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I have done in the past for internals,but like to think I can get it near the mark without going thru that rigmarole
I was taught plum and dot at College and as an apprentice I used plum and dot method in kitchens and bathrooms that was going to be fully tiled. We often had to to do the tiling so perfect internal angles was a must.

BG marketed a dot kit for dry lining in the early 80's which was perforated thin board and double headed nails for the string. I used them for the fully tiled dry lined rooms.
We used it at an old Hall in an old barn which was being converted into an electric station. All the walls needed to be a within a millimetre but they were like a snakes belly!! 3 days dubbing out and it was done. plumb and dot came in handy on that one.
It was how dad taught me for kitchen and bathrooms.
But thankfully since I only mainly skim these days theres not much call for it.
still I know I can leave it absolutely bang on when the need arises.
I use it quite a bit on lime render jobs to straighten old rubble walls its a godsend when using semi professional spreads
I always teach this method to students to start with, to get them used to the feather edge -- then move onto box screeds, and derby work, they then choose with method suits them :RpS_thumbsup:

i always use the plumb dot and screed method if the end product is going to be tiled, kitchen and bathrooms
guy that taught me made me do all my walls like that when i first started so i new how to get them spot on etc takes a bit longer but the walls are straight etc
Many years ago id use strips of 9.5 plasterboard where walls were desperate, all the old uns would take the piss but it worked a treat.
Even used that method with timber to level screed when first starting. Got the proper result.
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