Plastering over fresh plaster

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Round 2.

Managed to get 2 coats on this time. First mix was too wet so made a right mess. I think with a bit of sanding and filling it will come out ok.

Got the plaster much smoother this time and didn't have to SDS my bucket :D

2 more small walls to do then I'll retry the other side of my first attempt.
 

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Wall number 3 done.

My mix was a lot better this time. Managed to keep the area and tools clean.

Long way to go but progress
Good job Zomex
Listen very carefully to what @ChirpyUK says though !
He is without a doubt, and by many miles, the most experienced plasterer on here, off all time mate ! :)
 
I did use a wet brush on the corners but yeah my left angle looks rough AF. Probably did it too soon. Will keep in mind for the next one.

Fitting my first ever corner bead on that corner tomorrow :D

Cheers lads.
 
Making some improvements (I think). really enjoying my plastering journey.

The big"er" wall took me a long time and the second coat was starting to set so I added some water mid way and I just got away with it. Think this size is my limit at my current speed.

I see those powder things in wickes which slow the setting down. I'm sure you guys use the speed up ones, are they any good?
 

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Making some improvements (I think). really enjoying my plastering journey.

The big"er" wall took me a long time and the second coat was starting to set so I added some water mid way and I just got away with it. Think this size is my limit at my current speed.

I see those powder things in wickes which slow the setting down. I'm sure you guys use the speed up ones, are they any good?
Extra time, yellow wraps mate, as previously mentioned ! :rolleyes:
It would help you out a great deal,! :)
Also, never ever remix gear, its bad practice and they should hang you for much less !
Keep up your good efforts Zomex ! ..............Although "they" would never admit it, being far too much
"right up themselves", most on here are impressed of your diligence mate ! (y)
 
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Extra time, yellow wraps mate, as previously mentioned ! :rolleyes:
It would help you out a great deal,! :)
Also, never ever remix gear, its bad practice and they should hang you for much less !
Keep up your good efforts Zomex ! ..............Although "they" would never admit it, being far too much
"right up themselves", most on here are impressed of your diligence mate ! (y)

Ah i missed that it was mentioned before.


Thank you for your kind words. I have been renovating my house for 5 years and done everything from ripping back to bring, pulling down old path and plaster ceilings, plaster-boarding, insulating, building stud walls, concrete etc. My biggest claim to fame so far is converting a outside workshop to a office. Plastering I always brushed off as not a DIY job. And to some extent it is true in most cases. But my goal is to get to walls to a "pass" state for a every day person looking at them. I believe a tiny bit of filling and sanding and I have reached that goal. But I would like to get better and better.
 
Should.of stuck with tape and joint

Tried before, never looks good unless you are really good with taping and jointing. Also it takes a hell of a lot of time and is messy. Even my plastering now as a beginner is creating a much better finish than that.

Checked my new wall this morning and it's by far my best. Flattest and smoothest so far.
 
I appreciate the advice and time given by you all. I hate keeping asking questions but I have a couple to throw out there.

I am currently beading the Velux window. The reveals were put in by the guy who installed the window to meet the existing plasterboard. The reveals are all at different angles (I know they are sometimes angled out for sun light but they are not consistent).

I ended up pulling all of the old platerboard down and using soundboard + 100mm PIR which is why I had to fill the gap.

3 beads went on nice, marry up at the bottom (see attached) but on 1 side there is a 5-10mm gap between the bead corner and plasterboard corner because the angle isn't 90 degrees. Will I get away with getting some filler in there to make it solid between the bead and wall?

The top bead won't go on due to angle (see attached). Should I get a 45 angle and get it as close as possible?

---

For the some matt painted plasterboard (the window reveals) which I plan to plaster over. I have read SBR or PVA. If using SBR should I 50/50 with water 1 coat then neat the next?
 

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Ah i missed that it was mentioned before.


Thank you for your kind words. I have been renovating my house for 5 years and done everything from ripping back to bring, pulling down old path and plaster ceilings, plaster-boarding, insulating, building stud walls, concrete etc. My biggest claim to fame so far is converting a outside workshop to a office. Plastering I always brushed off as not a DIY job. And to some extent it is true in most cases. But my goal is to get to walls to a "pass" state for a every day person looking at them. I believe a tiny bit of filling and sanding and I have reached that goal. But I would like to get better and better.
That's the spirit mate !!!! What do you do for a living ?
 
I appreciate the advice and time given by you all. I hate keeping asking questions but I have a couple to throw out there.

I am currently beading the Velux window. The reveals were put in by the guy who installed the window to meet the existing plasterboard. The reveals are all at different angles (I know they are sometimes angled out for sun light but they are not consistent).

I ended up pulling all of the old platerboard down and using soundboard + 100mm PIR which is why I had to fill the gap.

3 beads went on nice, marry up at the bottom (see attached) but on 1 side there is a 5-10mm gap between the bead corner and plasterboard corner because the angle isn't 90 degrees. Will I get away with getting some filler in there to make it solid between the bead and wall?

The top bead won't go on due to angle (see attached). Should I get a 45 angle and get it as close as possible?

---

For the some matt painted plasterboard (the window reveals) which I plan to plaster over. I have read SBR or PVA. If using SBR should I 50/50 with water 1 coat then neat the next?
You want a thin coat stop bead there mate , staples and a bit of tubed adhesive should do the trick. Prime the background before you start , will give the adhesive a better shot. SBR is good for very dry substrates, if its painted board I'd be tempted to grit it mate . Green grit , Cementone, B&Q do it in small tubs . (y)
 
I appreciate the advice and time given by you all. I hate keeping asking questions but I have a couple to throw out there.

I am currently beading the Velux window. The reveals were put in by the guy who installed the window to meet the existing plasterboard. The reveals are all at different angles (I know they are sometimes angled out for sun light but they are not consistent).

I ended up pulling all of the old platerboard down and using soundboard + 100mm PIR which is why I had to fill the gap.

3 beads went on nice, marry up at the bottom (see attached) but on 1 side there is a 5-10mm gap between the bead corner and plasterboard corner because the angle isn't 90 degrees. Will I get away with getting some filler in there to make it solid between the bead and wall?

The top bead won't go on due to angle (see attached). Should I get a 45 angle and get it as close as possible?

---

For the some matt painted plasterboard (the window reveals) which I plan to plaster over. I have read SBR or PVA. If using SBR should I 50/50 with water 1 coat then neat the next?
He beads better than you @Casper
 
I appreciate the advice and time given by you all. I hate keeping asking questions but I have a couple to throw out there.















I am currently beading the Velux window. The reveals were put in by the guy who installed the window to meet the existing plasterboard. The reveals are all at different angles (I know they are sometimes angled out for sun light but they are not consistent).















I ended up pulling all of the old platerboard down and using soundboard + 100mm PIR which is why I had to fill the gap.















3 beads went on nice, marry up at the bottom (see attached) but on 1 side there is a 5-10mm gap between the bead corner and plasterboard corner because the angle isn't 90 degrees. Will I get away with getting some filler in there to make it solid between the bead and wall?















The top bead won't go on due to angle (see attached). Should I get a 45 angle and get it as close as possible?















---















For the some matt painted plasterboard (the window reveals) which I plan to plaster over. I have read SBR or PVA. If using SBR should I 50/50 with water 1 coat then neat the next?















Bend the wings or stop bead or get a effelang

@JessThePlasterer
 
What a great help cheers everyone. All noted and i will crack on with that. Got the Extratime Plaster packs on order too. Looking forward to giving them a go.

My photo is about 9 years old.

In short for work I am 70% web developer and 30% swimming pool builder.

Long story I started a online business at 19 which I still run today. It is in web development (creating and providing website templates). Not rich by any means but did well enough from it to buy the house. The last few years business has slowed down as the industry is changing.

Met a landscaper who I train boxing with. We replaced all of the old clay drainage in my garden (constant blocks due to cracks). Long story short he said if I ever need a job speak to him. Since then he moved to building high end swimming pools. I now work part time with him and I am learning a lot.
 
What a great help cheers everyone. All noted and i will crack on with that. Got the Extratime Plaster packs on order too. Looking forward to giving them a go.

My photo is about 9 years old.

In short for work I am 70% web developer and 30% swimming pool builder.

Long story I started a online business at 19 which I still run today. It is in web development (creating and providing website templates). Not rich by any means but did well enough from it to buy the house. The last few years business has slowed down as the industry is changing.

Met a landscaper who I train boxing with. We replaced all of the old clay drainage in my garden (constant blocks due to cracks). Long story short he said if I ever need a job speak to him. Since then he moved to building high end swimming pools. I now work part time with him and I am learning a lot.
Do you have a big G** pool trowel, as in a "Kirk Giordano" style mate ?
I told my son, only yesterday, get me one of those f**k**s for my birthday lad ! :)
 
Do you have a big G** pool trowel, as in a "Kirk Giordano" style mate ?
I told my son, only yesterday, get me one of those f**k**s for my birthday lad ! :)

Ah that guy I remember his videos. He's a beast.

Most customers choose to go with pool liners (cheaper) which are heat welded so I haven't done any tiling yet. The pools he does are chemical free using filters. The rich love a "eco" pool :D
 
Used bonding for the first time yesterday. Used it on the window reveal to get it flat and also on the ceiling where I used different plasterboard (went with separate plasterboard and PIR to save £££).

Going to plaster the window reveals, get them finished while waiting for the double time stuff
 

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Why was plasterboard painted?

Because during lockdown me and a mate gave it a go and half assed it before I knew any better. Since then I understand a lot more and pulled down everything apart from the window revewals (as they were well secured), a back wall (as it's well insulated with rock wall) and the cieling (also well insulated).

I had a lot of timber left over from my house (originall 100mm timber) so I re-did the match sticks used by the old owner. Used thicker PIR insulation between rafters and 25mm on top, used soundboard (original was 9.5mm plasterboard as the only available during lockdown).

I originally painted plasterboard for the whole room thinking it's fine as only a loft but now I've done everything properly
 
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