Plastering Oak Framed Barn Conversion

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Peg

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Need some help on this one. We're starting a job on Monday and its untreated exposed oak every where, theres no ceiling as the full oak roof is exposed and there are oak colums everywhere, middle of walls. corners etc. (Horizontal and Vertical). Obviously we need to protect the oak at all costs but we're unsure of the best way to cover it.

So far we've thought of Gaffer taping all oak off prior to starting a room but are concerned about the tape staining the oak because of the glue. Ames Taping may be an option but don't really want to do it because its crap compared to plastering, also still need to protect the oak from Fastset and Velvet. Other option is instead of finishing into the corners as normal, start a couple of inches away from the edge and feather out just skimming full areas except the edges.

Looking for any other suggestions or advise especially if you've done something like this before. any help would be much appreciated.
 
last option sounds good to me,feather it in from the edges,the new oak will suck all the moisture from the tape and prob fall off unless it gaffer tape,but that could be a b*****d to get off like you say.
Another option might be to use that protective roll stuff for wood floors,thats designed to be pulled of wood so should be fine. links below

https://www.polysite.com/index_files/page0004.htm
 
use masking tape and cut it off with a stanley knife tight to the edge then brush the angles in with clean water
 
it wont damage or stain the oak either tape up like what spunky says or keep a sponge handy and just wipe it down as you go.
 
Joiners on site seem to reckon that the Gaffer Tape might stain the oak, i've covered an off cut to test it and we'll need to see if it has a reaction come Monday morning. Masking tapes no use it'll fall off half way through plastering because of the moisture then i'm really screwed!
 
Bod said:
Did one just before christmas and masking tape was fine.

Bod, what kind of masking tape did you use, was it 3m stuff as Church mentioned, my main concern with masking tape was that it would'nt stick when we started plastering due to the moisture, also the oak is still wet as it was fitted in November and the building was'nt wind and water tight until around Feb/March. Can't remember if i mentioned it in my original post but the oak is to remain untreated, once it was installed it was sand blasted and nothing else will be done to it as apparently over the coming years the natural oils will be released and it will colour naturally.
 
I have just priced to joint a green oak house. Same situation as you - beams untreated etc. The client wants the boards painted before installation because he doesn't want to have to cut in against the oak ???
Plastering Oak Framed Barn Conversion


The reason a lot of these oak buildings are jointed is because it introduces less water to the building.
 
if you get the black stain then ive heard that lemon juice removes it-something to do with ph levels acid/alkali-plaster is alkali lemon is acid-dont know if it works but i read it somewhere
 
celophane for oak beams then gaffa or duck taoe edges where beam to plaster meet ....quickest way to mask up and quickest way to clean up after ...and probably cheapest......
 
Thanks to all for your input, its much appreciated.

We ended up taping and filling in case we burnt the oak. It would of taken days to cover it all.

We used a drywall sanding kit to finish but the disk sander can't get into the corners because of the circular head so we had to sand all corners by hand. The next dilemma we have is some of the oak is dusty and we're looking for any help as to cleaning the oak. Does any one know what we can use to clean the dust off as obviously we can't wipe it down with a wet cloth!
 
just out of interest does none of you lot stick a stop bead up the sides of timbers because over the years they do move about ????????????????????????????????????????????????????
 
we done one a few months ago where it was spec to have all oak timbers and the stop beads wer 3mm of the timbers just to allow movement and you did not see that ugly crack down the side looked real nice
 
put it this way id rather see a nice expansion line rather than an ugly crack but each to there own ;D
 
Can't use stop beads as it was taped and filled!

Hoover and a brush is'nt going to get all the dust out of the oak grain! Also oak will move anything up to an inch due to temperature change.
 
i know your oak is untreated, donkeys years ago i did a big plastering job in Chorley flour mill lancs, there were about 80 Parana pine and oak shoots for the flour to flow though, we were instructed to smear and cover all timber work in Vaseline prior to plastering and was told to leave the Vaseline on after the job for the painters, i reckon the painters removed the Vaseline don’t know if it affected the timber? ps the timber was varnished

I always keep a tin of mr sheen in the van, great for worktops and painted doors if you have an accident with your plaster
 
Plasterite said:
TonyM said:
Peg said:
Can't use stop beads as it was taped and filled!

Use Gyproc No-Coat L-Trim. I use it all the time.
https://www.no-coat.com/.docs/pg/10137
Hi Tony
i looked at the no coat site it looks good, it seems to be an american site, can you get there stuff in north west uk mate

Gyproc have adpoted the No-Coat products for the British market. They are available to order through BG stockists. I get mine through PPG Architectural Coatings which is the new name for Leyland/Johnstones Paint Merchants. It is expensive stuff, but if you want some, PM me, I have a garage full.
 
Most drylining jobs we do we use stop beads against frames it just makes the crack neater but with the oak not being perfectly straight might not look so good and as has been said green oak shrinks loads.I would try an airline to get the dust of the oak.
Lucius
 
Started the Oak house on Saturday.Here's some L-trim I did today.
Plastering Oak Framed Barn Conversion

It's ideal as the jointing compound doesn't touch the oak.
Plastering Oak Framed Barn Conversion

Cut ready to stick tomorrow.
Plastering Oak Framed Barn Conversion

Plastering Oak Framed Barn Conversion

Plastering Oak Framed Barn Conversion

Plastering Oak Framed Barn Conversion
 
Bruce Willis said:
Is that red felt Tony? Like your milk crate as well isnt that the underground pipe housing stuff?
The ceiling boards are timber planks that have been painted with Farrow & Ball paint. That's a soakaway crate with some ply screwed on to it. Stable as....
 
Are the boards gonna stay exposed like that? Looks really good the red next to dark wood effect, oh er yeh your works good as well ;D ;)
 
Yes, the ceilings are finished. The oak has been sandblasted and the customer is paranoid about getting anything on it.
 
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