Plasterboard covering herringbone struts

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Geoffdg

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Hi all, I am fitting metal herringbone struts to the truss joists. The question is how far below the joist can the strut and securing nails protrude below the joist before it becomes a problem for the plasterboard. At the moment it looks like being 3mm or so.
Thanks for any guidance Geoff
 
Hi all, I am fitting metal herringbone struts to the truss joists. The question is how far below the joist can the strut and securing nails protrude below the joist before it becomes a problem for the plasterboard. At the moment it looks like being 3mm or so.
Thanks for any guidance Geoff
They shouldn't come below the joists at all FFS. @zombie help me out here buddy.
 
Counter batten the joists after if the struts protrude. Or use solid timber noggins, the same depth of the joists.
 
Hi all, I am fitting metal herringbone struts to the truss joists. The question is how far below the joist can the strut and securing nails protrude below the joist before it becomes a problem for the plasterboard. At the moment it looks like being 3mm or so.
Thanks for any guidance Geoff
Take them off and put them on properly as Andy has said. i.e you bend the ends and fit to the face of the timber not the top and bottom.
And fit them tight, so compressions loads pass thru the strut not across the nail and tear it out. The power in a warping joist/piece of timber is amazing.
 
Another example of the modern way of doing things being inferior to the traditional way. Timber herringbone cut to suit the gap between each pair of joists. Simple.
 
Take them off and put them on properly as Andy has said. i.e you bend the ends and fit to the face of the timber not the top and bottom.
And fit them tight, so compressions loads pass thru the strut not across the nail and tear it out. The power in a warping joist/piece of timber is amazing.
Sorry but every where I look on the Internet says top and bottom fixings not the same as timber noggins. A quick Google search will show you
 
Another example of the modern way of doing things being inferior to the traditional way. Timber herringbone cut to suit the gap between each pair of joists. Simple.
Been a while since I've saw it done like that which is the proper way but it's about time control and churning out houses in a timely manner these days that's why these shitty struts are used for the solid bridging
 
Another example of the modern way of doing things being inferior to the traditional way. Timber herringbone cut to suit the gap between each pair of joists. Simple.
Job I’m on now the chippys have done that never seen it done before , but they are old school and by far the best trades I’ve ever worked with. They got a multimillion pound joinery warehouse it’s unbelievable the kit they got. I’m there tomorrow I’ll take some pics of the stud work, impressive how they done it, cripple studded all door opens and that herinbone type noggins in between.
 
Sorry but every where I look on the Internet says top and bottom fixings not the same as timber noggins. A quick Google search will show you
Yet again someone who believes everything in the internet must be right. You are wrong, and so is the picture in the designing building construction wicki - which is maybe why they are looking for a new editor.

Would you try to fix it to the top of a sistered joist? - no. Herring bone strutting works in compression not tension. Fixing to the top or bottom of a joist will lift the nail when under compression, but if it is bent over and fixed to the side it will not. That is also why sold blocking is often preferred, especially on the deep joists used a lot these days.
 
@Brimstone
Screenshot_20220111-185622.png
 
Hi all, I am fitting metal herringbone struts to the truss joists. The question is how far below the joist can the strut and securing nails protrude below the joist before it becomes a problem for the plasterboard. At the moment it looks like being 3mm or so.
 
Been a while since I've saw it done like that which is the proper way but it's about time control and churning out houses in a timely manner these days that's why these shitty struts are used for the solid bridging
Chalk line, pencil and a handsaw all that's needed.
 
Hi all, I am fitting metal herringbone struts to the truss joists. The question is how far below the joist can the strut and securing nails protrude below the joist before it becomes a problem for the plasterboard. At the moment it looks like being 3mm or so.
Thanks for any guidance Geoff
You have had a lot of bad or incorrect advice on here Geoff. The metal struts are made to nail to top and bottom of joists as you have been doing. Best advice was off @Cockney1 (wack with a lumphammer)
It is normal to sit a couple of mill below the joist and once boarded and skimmed will not be noticeable.
Sinking in or other suggestions defeats the object of them being an easy, fast fit system. Let me know if I can advise further.
 
You have had a lot of bad or incorrect advice on here Geoff. The metal struts are made to nail to top and bottom of joists as you have been doing. Best advice was off @Cockney1 (wack with a lumphammer)
It is normal to sit a couple of mill below the joist and once boarded and skimmed will not be noticeable.
Sinking in or other suggestions defeats the object of them being an easy, fast fit system. Let me know if I can advise further.
Thanks
 
Another example of the modern way of doing things being inferior to the traditional way. Timber herringbone cut to suit the gap between each pair of joists. Simple.
Few pics of that that timber work I was on about , totally makes sense for proper strength rather then a loose noggin lol
 

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