Plasprime problem

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Fourplastering

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Hi guys,
Have any of you had any experiance with Plasprime?
I used it yesterday on a fireplace after scraping off the old blown skim first. The plasprime was then applied with a brush onto the old render and left overnight. I skimmed it this morning and it went off like a rocket crazing everywhere! The only saving grace is it wasn't a paying job.
Any thoughts as to what went wrong?

Cheers
Andy
 
It's not the plasprime it is more the background which is why you used plasprime. But this is more for painted surface you just have not taking control of the suction. What is the back ground s+c , browning, how old is the house.
 
henry said:
It's not the plasprime it is more the background which is why you used plasprime. But this is more for painted surface you just have not taking control of the suction. What is the back ground s+c , browning, how old is the house.
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I thought the plasprime would have taken care of the suction, Wba would have. It says on the tub that you can use it on old render.
The house is 1956.
I would have normally used WBA but I thought I would give this a go as a few were raving about it on here.
 
It's not relly suction control just gives the surfave a key, bond it pulls in quite a bit when skimming i find....If it's really high suction walls i always give a coat of pva then apply bond it/plasprime/wba and it goes a lot further to....
 
Looking at the product again, it is cementone plasterers primer with "plas prime technology". Ok, so is this the same thing rebranded like wba or something else? Picked it up in b&q. Found a video for it on a website and it does say use an sbr before hand in the vid, but it doesn't say it on the tub!
 
Send it back then, from reading that, I'd have expected a better performance than you've experienced :RpS_thumbdn:
 
Ive used this stuff quite alot latley! It doesnt control suction on porus backgrounds just give it a quick pva first. On reskims over painted surface though this stuff is the nuts it needs to be though as i get it for £21 +vat from TP`s which is a bit more expensive than pva
 
Does microGB kill suction Nick?

I've been thinking about this today. It's much better value than the interior bonding agents and goes on much easier, the grit is smaller.

But is it ok to use with gypsum based products inside?
 
DannyMac said:
Does microGB kill suction Nick?

I've been thinking about this today. It's much better value than the interior bonding agents and goes on much easier, the grit is smaller.

But is it ok to use with gypsum based products inside?
Click to expand...

yeah kills suction well. iv never had a problem with it
 
I have been experimenting a bit with the microgobetis and have discovered that its not very good on very shiny/smooth surfaces.

I used some over bathroom paint and could rub it off with my finger once cured. On less shiny surfaces it is ok though.

The blue grit on the left is onto microgobetis and i cant rub it off at all, and on the right I scraped the microgobetis off completely and I cant rub that off either.

20120430152927.jpg
 
About 5 days for the microgobetis, we had to leave and do another job. And the blue grit was about a day.

Most of the rest of the job is really high suction white lime. I've given a few of the walls 1 coat of a pva/sbr/water mix, then a coat of microgobetis and that stuck real well and I think has killed 80% of the suction....I'll skim it tomorrow and see.

Bearing in mind that 4 strong PVAs wasn't enough to kill the suction on the first bedroom I did.
 
That stuff you bought doesn't control suction it just gives a key for skim, like it says on the link you posted 'Unrivalled key for skim coats' nothing about suction. Where sells microgobetis?
 
I've had loads of dot and dab fall off the walls (smooth cast concrete building)after splashing plas-prime on it. it doesn't seem to matter how long it's left to dry. some areas take and others don't. I'm still experimenting as to why !! I don't trust it anywhere really but keeping getting told it must go on by site agents.
 
The concrete is almost a polished type finish, so I can see why they'd assume it won't stick, there is no real key on it. I will try it on bare concrete when I can but they are on your back constantly and don't seem to care that it's failing- 'it's your problem mate, it's what the spec says' typical site agent attitude these days !
Some of the walls are float and set too, so a labourer has gone round and painted loads on in advance, just in case it's needed for that. whole job is a farce to be honest !
 
Cut 3 peices of board the same size, totally butter the backs of em up. Stick one to untreated concrete, one to PVAed patch and the last to a Plasprimed area.

See which one is the hardest to pull off. Or if you can't be arsed just go to the pub for a pint.:RpS_thumbup:
 
Been using this on moisture boards seems to go powdery when dry. Do not trust this stuff going back to bond-it.
 
lime walls - just get some stabiliser on it neat. wait for it to soak in, it dries very quick. PVA and skim.

I've tried pvaing lime walls and waiting and waiting, pvaing again and again. this is a lot quicker
 
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