Penetrating damp

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FreeD

FreeD

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I've got a wall, brickwork in my place, the property is lower than the neighbours, there is damp penetration in the corner, checked next door and drain is blocked, so going to sort that but as I'm lower I'd also like to tank before dry lining.

The paint on the brickwork is on there solid...can I KA Tanking Slurry directly over the top? Or do I have to get a scrabbler on it first?

Cheers
 
We don't use ka slurry but the slurry we use we would mix with a 1:1 sbr water solution. This sticks like s**t to a blanket.
 
The video I've seen on youtube shows them removing paint then sbr primer followed by slurry
 
It's always best to remove but if it's solid go over. Eml s+c scratch and tank over?

The sbr water mix would be used as the mixing liquid for the tanking not a primer.
 
Ideally you need to needle gun off the paint so you have a solid substrate, then brick acid to open the pores then as carlos says.
Cut corners and you will be doing it again.
 
Got a scabbler on it...has removed the paint.

I've got first fix wires and and x2 sockets on the wall, should I chase these in? or are they somehow fixed after tanking? Once I've rendered the wall I will be dot and dabbing.

Thanks
 
Thats what I was thinking but I can only find 35mm DL back boxes is that the size you use seem a bit deep for D&D
 
I'm thinking just to stick 25mm metal boxes on with Stixall directly to the tanking, render upto them then D&D.
 
FreeD said:
My understanding was that providing you render over the tanking before D&D this will prevent condensation on the dabs...
Click to expand...
y
FreeD said:
Why is that? it's an internal wall...
Click to expand...
You can still get interstitial condensation on the back of a normal board. If your using a tanking slurry it should have a coat of waterproof render underneath the slurry or on top depending on the manufacturers spec. Render is a shite insulator and can cause cold spots if its on a n external wall, gable etc. which causes condensation
 
Arti said:
y

You can still get interstitial condensation on the back of a normal board. If your using a tanking slurry it should have a coat of waterproof render underneath the slurry or on top depending on the manufacturers spec. Render is a shite insulator and can cause cold spots if its on a n external wall, gable etc. which causes condensation
Click to expand...

So what will happen if you D&D insulated boards directly onto a cold wall that has been tanked and not rendered?

The condensation will not show on the boards where the dabs are but whats to stop it running down the walls in the cavity?
 
Dot and dab is popular with insulated boards these days I have done it a few times but I usually try and stud off walls is I can but not all jobs are able to if its a small room etc.
Not had a call back on any of the insulated plasterboards I have dabbed

interstitial condensation is mainly a problem with normal plasterboard, causing a cold spot behind the board as Arti says S&C is a crap insulator.
If I was you I would tank the wall, and then dot and dab insulated boards. just make sure you have run your cable down and popped them out of the boards where you want the sockets.
 
Differing internal floor levels. Or as in this case if I understood correctly, next door is at a higher level. The party wall is internal but with a high ground level.


I think.....
 
carlos said:
Differing internal floor levels. Or as in this case if I understood correctly, next door is at a higher level. The party wall is internal but with a high ground level.


I think.....
Click to expand...

we dont get those type of problems in flat suffolk
 
All sorted now, redirected drain next door, scrabbled off paint, tanked, 1 coat s&c with waterproofer 3:1 then d&d thermaline plus boards 27mm.
 
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