Parex

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Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
Might give this stuff a go next week.

Got a semi to hack off, the bricks will be clay commons. What is Parex equivelant to rend-aid? if the total thickness is going to be 15mm what thickness will be the pre-rend coat be (rend-aid equivalent) ?

How many m2 to the bag? at said thickness?
 

Andy M

Active Member
Couple of choices here. Maite or Microgobetis. Micro is a paint on the wall product so we go straight on this with the Mono. Maite is probably equal to other pre rends for coverage.
 

essexandy

The Lake Governor
@Rigsby the Parex equivalent of Rendaid is Monogris E. It should go on about 4-6mm thick and I think you'll get about 6m2 per bag from memory.
We fully mesh the Monogris as well.
 
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lazer

Active Member
Might give this stuff a go next week.

Got a semi to hack off, the bricks will be clay commons. What is Parex equivelant to rend-aid? if the total thickness is going to be 15mm what thickness will be the pre-rend coat be (rend-aid equivalent) ?

How many m2 to the bag? at said thickness?

youve got a semi to hack off ! wait till it goes hard its quicker lol
 

Parko

Member
Have you tried your filzomat on mono yet rigsby? I really fancy one but waiting for some feedback, ta
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
Wudnt use maite its overkill and 18 quid a bag. Premium gear like that better on ewi.

Spec we use for hack offs is parmurex base with lanko latex added full mesh and about 6 to 8mm scratch coat.

Once dry monorex away. Lovely background to spray on too

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Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
So if 6mm them 13mm of monorex?

What is Lanko Latex? sbr?

Seems a bit of mucking about adding two components together.

Monogris or Parmurex? confused!
 

Bones10

Member
Just roll micro on and leave couple hrs then slap parex on, Maite costs a lot and have to leave 24hrs before applying parex
 

User________removed

Private Member
@essexandy is it just whites and creams you rub up with mate ? i looked into this ages ago although didn't get round to it and the rep told me whites and creams are the only colors suitable for rubbing up rather than scraping, all your other colors have to many different pigments in them and end up patchy when rubbed up :confused:
 
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essexandy

The Lake Governor
@Airborne we've only used only used their Natural White, which to be honest isn't that white:confused:

Can't remember ever reading on their website that dark colours aren't suitable for floating.
I do try to make sure it gets rubbed up at just the right stage so minimal water is needed to get a good finish, helping keep a consistent colour over the elevation.

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s467/andychapmam/211.jpg
 
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scogs

Member
If you don't need to dubout the micro and monorex with tv10 mesh around doors windows etc Basecoat is overkill if there's no problems with substrate


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Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
Rung up Parex and parex rung up me! Two reps with the same advice. Apply Microgeobetis? and then full thickness Monorex. Does the GF look better than the other on looking flatter?

Some customers don't like the grainy finish of mono, with this one being high up could it look smoother? Is it the same procedure scratching back?
 

scogs

Member
Microgobetis....roll or brush on primer similar to blue grit or thistle bondit! Good gear evens out suction don't overwork top cost takes a while to pick up . GF is good but need to be spot with the Darby and spat before scrape.


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