parex finished depth

Members online

Total: 594 (members: 6, guests: 588)

Share this page

Status
Not open for further replies.
P

Pnell50

New Member
Hi,

Any clues on what the finished depth of the parex should be, one installer has said it should be 15mm, another 10mm?? Which one is right, what are the implications of installing 10mm?

Cheers
 
15mm for monorex. 18mm applied and scraped back to a 15mm finish.

Unless the background is brick or concrete that has been sealed with a pre rend or a primer.

Any block work should be 15mm regardless.

What is the background ?
 
new blockwork of house extension. Bought all the materials for the guy to start this week, monorex with 10mm beads.
 
Then you need15mm and 15mm beads.

Chancers often go down the 10mm route. Its cheaper and faster.

Take the beads back get 15mm ring Parex they will raise a written spec for your job
 
The substrate is porous and designed to be cloaked inna weather proofing render. Unlike a building designed to be brick finish.
The monocouche renders are porous too that's how they keep the breath ability. The system is tested to 15mm for absorption/weather protection and also appearance. You can sometimes see the block work mortar joints in thin monocouche jobs because of the suction..

If you want piece of mind just ring Parex.

Is your installer approved by Parex ? Interesting to know
 
plasterjfe said:
Then you need15mm and 15mm beads.

Chancers often go down the 10mm route. Its cheaper and faster.

Take the beads back get 15mm ring Parex they will raise a written spec for your job
Click to expand...
I use 10mm beads dabbed out ,as 15mm turns more into 20mm, i would not consider us as "Chancers" but i have seen some nail on 15mm beads which look ****
 
15mm perimeter stop and drip beads fixed tight if possible. 10mm angle beads on dabs to be in line with the perimeter.

Bad brickwork gets 10mm perimeter beads on dabs to acheive 15mm.
 
keithuk said:
I use 10mm beads dabbed out ,as 15mm turns more into 20mm, i would not consider us as "Chancers" but i have seen some nail on 15mm beads which look ****
Click to expand...

No I meant lads using 10mm depth nailed or gripped on not bedded on dabs which clearly gives a few mm build.

To be honest tho never understood u boys dabbing upvc beads.
They are designed to stick wing flush with the raised spine at depth.

Dabbing for float galving beads.

And the time.....maaaaaan
 
plasterjfe said:
No I meant lads using 10mm depth nailed or gripped on not bedded on dabs which clearly gives a few mm build.

To be honest tho never understood u boys dabbing upvc beads.
They are designed to stick wing flush with the raised spine at depth.

Dabbing for float galving beads.

And the time.....maaaaaan
Click to expand...
You guys must follow better brick layers then us
 
I must say the block work standard in this country is appalling.

I grip for this reason the bead leads the way and keeps things straight.

Nailing is a no no. I ain't seen hardly any block walls Keith that you could nail beads to
 
Beads should always be bedded and never nailed. Parex now state in there spec 15mm beads when it used to say 10/15 proprietary beads. All good lads I know bed 10mm to get 15 overall and it gives you a chance to get your beads straighter. Parex is finished at 15mm that's how it's designed to work.
 
Another issue I find with 10s are that they are more flimsy than the a substantial 15 and more prone to bow and take more work to plumb. Problems with nails is they pinch the beads out of shape.

Get a nice rigid straight 15 and Let the bead do the work imo
 
plasterjfe said:
Another issue I find with 10s are that they are more flimsy than the a substantial 15 and more prone to bow and take more work to plumb. Problems with nails is they pinch the beads out of shape.

Get a nice rigid straight 15 and Let the bead do the work imo
Click to expand...
The cheaper beads are **** ,we spend a bit more ,as i think it saves time in the long run
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top