parex acrylic spraying

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goody

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sprayed 85m2 of parex sand smooth 0.5mm today on my tod.....courtesy of the ritmo m and the refina comp. Didnt get going til 11am after finishing masking, setting up, collecting remote lead off blones(thanks butt). Lovelly stuff to spray......looks cowin mint on a flat maite base coat. Went over sills, decorative window surrounds and walls to blend it all in. Will get some pics up tomorrow hopefully.

Haven't minded doing the 1mm fine by hand until now but have to say this 0.5mm finish is probably as raised as the 1mm but is so much more refined looking as it's seamless with not one blemish in it, no scaffold marks, no day joints, no missed bits, no drag marks, no nothing. anyone thinking about investing or adding to their kit, just get on it.
 

Curry

Private Member
Just priced 485m2 of parex dpr smooth on a parmurex basecoat.

After hearing your experience with the ritmo I hope it all comes off.

Would you say it the best external finish u have done?
 
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theblones

Active Member
What was the coverage like per tubs. How many passes did yee doo. Did yee prime first and if you did what with. Is DPR actually self cleaning. it stands for dirt pickup resistance so is it just parex version
 

goody

Private Member
howdo folks....um yes I'd go so far as to say it's my fav flat finish(machine roughcast being up there too). It's just so god damned perfect(not bragging....it is).
coverage is about the same as 1mm hand applied, so 15-17m2 per tub. It says in the catalogue that it's late 20's but I didn't find that boo!!
You've definitely got to get the maite like external skimming and prime it with the corresponding 310 primer as if your painting as a top coat. Then one proper pass to get most of the texture on top to bottom. Second pass to perfect and quickly cover it all again(this bit makes all the difference).
I'll stress you can't have any roughness to the basecoat or misses or drips or blobs etc in the primer. Whatever you do don't let a monkey anywhere near it or your better off sticking to the larger grains.
 

goody

Private Member
.....the finish is like medium to coarse sandpaper that envelopes the building....can't think of another way to describe it but it's as if it's been factory applied with no imperfections. Completely different to hand applied.
 

Curry

Private Member
So if I rub parmurex to finish that is good enough to paint the dpr smooth would look ok? or would you say fine would be better?
 
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owls

Private Member
ditto to what goodys said,
your base coat needs to be mint, ive never sprayed the 0.5 fine but have sprayed plenty of the 1mm grain. it does go further than putting it on by hand because you get nothing on the deck aswell.
the appearance on completion is different to hand application as your putting it on with different pressure, i tried it on a test panel with the two different application proceses and it looked diffferent a lot more uniform with the spray application.we were getting about 18 metres spraying compared to 14 by hand.
 

goody

Private Member
there's about a bucket in the sodding pipe....which makes you think it's going down quicker than is. Good thing is you run the machine out into a tub at the end of a spray, then only clean the machine and swing gun. Don't forget to drop a 550 foil round the hopper to hang beneath the tide line....you can put years on the machine letting this stuff go hard all over it!! Tape up the full pipe of gear at both ends ready for next spray. btw the ritmo was on speed '0' and comp on max
 

Curry

Private Member
the coarser the grain, the more forgiving it is

All understood just trying to see if anyone has sprayed on to a non thin coat background and if they have how do you leave the finish ready for the acrylic top coat. floated smooth or rubbed?


or is it pointless spraying a grain if you have already rubbed it up?
 

Curry

Private Member
there's about a bucket in the sodding pipe....which makes you think it's going down quicker than is. Good thing is you run the machine out into a tub at the end of a spray, then only clean the machine and swing gun. Don't forget to drop a 550 foil round the hopper to hang beneath the tide line....you can put years on the machine letting this stuff go hard all over it!! Tape up the full pipe of gear at both ends ready for next spray. btw the ritmo was on speed '0' and comp on max
Does anyone know if the swing gun can be modified to use the thin " skim " hoses? I found thebig render hoses made it difficult to spray
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
would imagine you need to ask les or blone but my swing machine has a 19mm 0r 20 odd mm (cant remember exctly) hose so im sure whatever you use the swing gun for would be ok with the smaller hose (altough I dont know what size the skim hose is)
 

goody

Private Member
Yep I think I will upgrade to a 15m length of 19mm hose when funds allow. It'd be a luxury though and not a necessity. You can put any fitting on the end of the swing gun to marry up to your skim hose currier. blones has a female 19mm camlock on his to take the smaller hose, mines got a geka fitting which then has an adapter to take it to female 25mm cam lock.....all a bit heavy and bulky for long term wiggling!!

What bore is the skim hose?......it might be ok for the 0.5mm grain but anything bigger and your probably in blockage territory. 19mm is prob best for a dedicated thin coat hose(dpr & maite)
 
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southernmonkey

Private Member
Steve i wouldn't want to be spraying acrylic through skim hoses mate, skim hose is only 13mm as opposed to the bigger 19mm or 25mm you'll just end up causing unnecessary problems, and by the time you've spent out on making fittings to adapt the gun you may as well just get the 19mm hose
 

theblones

Active Member
The 19 mm hose is very skinny. With a 19mm coupling on the gun the whole shabazz is the same width no big lumps like a snake who swallowed a cow
 

goody

Private Member
Lol.....i think the dpr's a bit G**, tried the slit but it preferred the tightest round hole
 

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
That finish looks really good. The pic ending in 50? I take it thats the rubbed up on the left and trowelled tight prior to rubbing up on the right.

Got anymore to spray on this job? I'd come down for a butchers. How are you coping with the temperatures and risk of wash off?

Very impressive!
 

goody

Private Member
thanks rigs umm yes that pic is a close up of the sprayed finish on one side and the primed maite ready for top coating. When you spray the top coat, especially in the half mill it tends to matt over pretty quick so wash off isn't a problem as long as it's not raining on the day or day after really.
 

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
Ahh......so this finish is not rubbed up like the usual bucket coat it's a sprayed finish?

Seen that in the corridor at PFT Northern (Lord and Downings). Looks very good as well there but a higher texture. It looks more like a plastic tyro lean. We and the other half are planning a long weekend away, if it is ok can I have a close look at this job?
 

goody

Private Member
ahh who said romance was dead ey.....yes ive seen les's sprayed finish up there, looks good. the half mill is as small as it gets. It's pretty flat compared to the more bobly bigger grains. I'm not sure if the lk402 comp would blast it on even finer......but a small bit of relief to help the basecoat is probably a good thing. things would get daft in money/time terms to get it any flatter but might perfect it over time.
 

camnz

Active Member
there's about a bucket in the sodding pipe....which makes you think it's going down quicker than is. Good thing is you run the machine out into a tub at the end of a spray, then only clean the machine and swing gun. Don't forget to drop a 550 foil round the hopper to hang beneath the tide line....you can put years on the machine letting this stuff go hard all over it!! Tape up the full pipe of gear at both ends ready for next spray. btw the ritmo was on speed '0' and comp on max

i use a citrus cleaner to clean acrylics off it turns it to jelly i soak my trowels in it over night after a few days of acrylic and it falls off in the morning and try liquid hammer to remove cement i give my pump a good clean with it every few weeks comes up brand new:
https://www.speedcrete.co.uk/liquid-hammer-i563.html
 

goody

Private Member
Cheers camnz what sort of citrus cleaner mate....I got some overspray on a stained glass window that I could do with turning it to jelly and not damaging the glass.
 

camnz

Active Member
goddy ive got to buy some tomorrow to clean acrylic off some scaff planks ill check the brand maybe its sold over there if not ill try track some down for ya!!
 

goody

Private Member
aww thanks guys.
The temptation is to just blatt on the same bigger grain finish by hand as its familiar etc.
On this job though the window profiles and sills although not strictly needing coating, do look much more convincing coated up same as the walls. Everythings enveloped so it blends it all together. The 'sprayed' look is kept to a minimum thanks to the smallest grain available so it does't look fake. Granted it's not quite as flat as painted s&c but is most definitely more blemish free and impressive looking when your stood next to it. Like I said maybe the bigger pft compressor would blast it on a little finer and flatter.
Not sure really if you can ever loose the sprayed look entirely, that's something perhaps mr blones might wanna come down and try one day with the lk402 side by side with the refina? Got to bear in mind though the fussyness of the base coat for these flat finishes. Maybe a slight bit of raised texture is a good thing? Also I'd say reserve if for the most premium jobs where you don't mind upping the prep, otherwise keep things sane and go for a 1.5mm texture on a reasonable basecoat.
 

goody

Private Member
Goodman

(que american accent) Good job.

I take it the window surrounds are EPS ? where you get em butt

howdeee partner......yep they are eps coated in maite, formed by a local company. through experience it's much better fitted by us as part of our work schedule rather than have someone external come in and do em like
 
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