Opinions please? ....Best method of replastering 1940's house?

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mark3

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Hi all

I've had a couple of plasterers round but I'm getting conflicting advice so thought I'd ask here.

I'm looking for advice on the best approach to replastering the ground floor my 1940's house.
The house is cavity wall construction with T&G floorboards.

The old sand/cement has been completely knocked off and any damp areas have now dried out as the cavity has been cleared.
There are signs of a few residual salts on the odd brick but the bitumen DPC seems good so hoping I won't be replacing unless absolutely necessary as cash is tight.

There was a fair bit of cracking in the old plaster around the wooden lintels so these have been re-packed and secured.


I was under the impression that sand and cement was the best method but

1 - one plasterer has advised dot n dab straight to brick


2 - another advised dot and dab on top of a sand and cement scratch coat (stops adhesive drawing water?)


3 - another advised dot n dab and using thermal boards on external walls.



None of them advised sand n cement and said that dabbing would be the best option to take avoid further hairline cracks.

I've never been a fan of dot n dab although speed, reduced drying times and insulation are a bonus. Maybe I'm being old fashioned?

Any advice appreciated as I'd rather get it right. Thanks in advance.


Mark
 
dot and dab because cash is tight !!
do you work for persimmons or taylor whimpey !!
to be honest the only cracks in my house on sand cement were above 1 door in the kitchen.
a wall was removed and areas re built etc etc......
ive never liked dabbing its a false wall.
anyone who says dabbing is better than sand and cement needs to unfuck themselves and stop bullshiting themselves.

you cant dab onto wooden lintels.
no2 is guessing
no 3 is full of s**t ...id understand if it was timber frame.
number 1 is honest but .............go for sand and cement (y)
 
algeeman said:
dot and dab because cash is tight !!
do you work for persimmons or taylor whimpey !!
to be honest the only cracks in my house on sand cement were above 1 door in the kitchen.
a wall was removed and areas re built etc etc......
ive never liked dabbing its a false wall.
anyone who says dabbing is better than sand and cement needs to unfuck themselves and stop bullshiting themselves.

you cant dab onto wooden lintels.
no2 is guessing
no 3 is full of s**t ...id understand if it was timber frame.
number 1 is honest but .............go for sand and cement (y)
Click to expand...
Most spreads are too lazy or not skilled enough to use sand cement these days
 
madmonk said:
that's all I'm getting at the mo cash is tight this is the fabric of your building get it spent does my head in
Click to expand...
We've had a few recently questioning our quote, I got the feeling they thought we might be ripping them off. This is the fault of the other wasters quoting. Quoted a job where the materials were £600+ then some guy quoted him £450 all in. ???? Another guy we quoted for said he'd do it himself "£materials £20". Just because some bumnuts are quoting like morons
 
mark3 said:
Hi all

I've had a couple of plasterers round but I'm getting conflicting advice so thought I'd ask here.

I'm looking for advice on the best approach to replastering the ground floor my 1940's house.
The house is cavity wall construction with T&G floorboards.

The old sand/cement has been completely knocked off and any damp areas have now dried out as the cavity has been cleared.
There are signs of a few residual salts on the odd brick but the bitumen DPC seems good so hoping I won't be replacing unless absolutely necessary as cash is tight.

There was a fair bit of cracking in the old plaster around the wooden lintels so these have been re-packed and secured.


I was under the impression that sand and cement was the best method but

1 - one plasterer has advised dot n dab straight to brick




2 - another advised dot and dab on top of a sand and cement scratch coat (stops adhesive drawing water?)


3 - another advised dot n dab and using thermal boards on external walls.



None of them advised sand n cement and said that dabbing would be the best option to take avoid further hairline cracks.

I've never been a fan of dot n dab although speed, reduced drying times and insulation are a bonus. Maybe I'm being old fashioned?

Any advice appreciated as I'd rather get it right. Thanks in advance.


Mark
Click to expand...

Plasterers can be quite resistant to change. Most builders are.

A question like that is just going to have everyone bickering for the rest of the week. :)

There's nothing wrong with dot and dab for a quicker fix than s&c.

You're deffo well advised to insulate while you've got the place stripped out though. Do the ceiling too while you're at it. Only cost a couple of quid.
 
Last edited:
All depends how much you want to spend really dot n dabs quicker. But prob works out same s costs more for boards but more for Labour on s c . If you got the cash though I would stick that plastic damp bubble wrap ( some one wi give ye proper name )on and thermo out side walls while it's down to brick . You.ll only need thin ones if you got a cavity
 
Bet the taps door handles kitchen and bathroom ain't gonna be cheap so feel like you wanna cut back on one of the most crucial part of the job cos you know a 10k kitchen with black mould in it will look classy
 
If it's cavity wall Constuction then modern systems is fine...

Although if there is residual damp & salts present then salt inhibitor sprayed prior the sand & cement with waterproofer would make a lot of sense.

Hardwall isn't to be used in damp conditions.

Insulated plaster boards is also another option more to bring it up to standard Insulation wise but also eliminating any cold spots, some have celotex insulation with a vapour barrier & a paper back which enables dabbing but I'm not so keen as they can require secondary fixing.

Long & short of it is there's always more than one way to skin a cat.

Speed or Cost will always be the trade off


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
SpankySouthport said:
If it's cavity wall Constuction then modern systems is fine...

Although if there is residual damp & salts present then salt inhibitor sprayed prior the sand & cement with waterproofer would make a lot of sense.

Hardwall isn't to be used in damp conditions.

Insulated plaster boards is also another option more to bring it up to standard Insulation wise but also eliminating any cold spots, some have celotex insulation with a vapour barrier & a paper back which enables dabbing but I'm not so keen as they can require secondary fixing.

Long & short of it is there's always more than one way to skin a cat.

Speed or Cost will always be the trade off


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Do you find when dabbing the insulation boards they have a factory bend to em . I always end up packing em out bout a trowels width on joints first
 
John j said:
Do you find when dabbing the insulation boards they have a factory bend to em . I always end up packing em out bout a trowels width on joints first
Click to expand...

normally because they have been stood on the short side and it brakes the spine
 
John j said:
Do you find when dabbing the insulation boards they have a factory bend to em . I always end up packing em out bout a trowels width on joints first
Click to expand...

Yeah as I say I'm not keen on dabbing them... same with EPS always have a bend in even when brand new & wrapped
5d0cc21a9ad672a20e5ea27911b93c92.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sheeeshhh.....What have I started hahaha

Thanks all for the input it's appreciated.
As I said cash is tight but if it means saving a bit more for a better job then I'd prefer to do that. Bare brick is all the rage anyway :)
I'd rather pay a few quid more now and get it right. Just don't want to get what the plasterer finds easiest.
I prefer the sound of "SC plus admix" with anti-salt spray first.
The ceilings are down, they can be done at the same time.
I hadn't considered Hardwall, will look into it.
I'm not in Dagenham .... Up North

Cheers all for your time.
 
algeeman said:
dot and dab because cash is tight !!
do you work for persimmons or taylor whimpey !!
to be honest the only cracks in my house on sand cement were above 1 door in the kitchen.
a wall was removed and areas re built etc etc......
ive never liked dabbing its a false wall.
anyone who says dabbing is better than sand and cement needs to unfuck themselves and stop bullshiting themselves.

you cant dab onto wooden lintels.
no2 is guessing
no 3 is full of s**t ...id understand if it was timber frame.
number 1 is honest but .............go for sand and cement (y)
Click to expand...


.... Number 2 was me guessing at reasons for doing a sand and cement scratch coat before dot n dab..
He was on about plaster boarding the lintels (screwed) and then dot n dab and scrim

I like the go foe sand and cement option....would the lintels be plaster boarded in this case?

Thanks :)
 
mark3 said:
Sheeeshhh.....What have I started hahaha

Thanks all for the input it's appreciated.
As I said cash is tight but if it means saving a bit more for a better job then I'd prefer to do that. Bare brick is all the rage anyway :)
I'd rather pay a few quid more now and get it right. Just don't want to get what the plasterer finds easiest.
I prefer the sound of "SC plus admix" with anti-salt spray first.
The ceilings are down, they can be done at the same time.
I hadn't considered Hardwall, will look into it.
I'm not in Dagenham .... Up North

Cheers all for your time.
Click to expand...
I'm up north in not so sunny Lancashire plus plenty of lads and lasses from the north on here. Give us a location and hopefully a forum regular can come out to help and advise You? Trust me if they get the job they darnt cock it up or the forum will blast their hide to Haydes
 
Just so it with sand and cement with additives as required , a nice weak mix , 5/1 at most , lintels if concrete can be rendered ,if there smooth ,then just sbr with cement in the mix , lots do dot and dab ,I think it's a cheap job myself ,a proper dot and dab job should have a sand and cement scratch coat to prevent damp ingress
 
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