o me life!

[oasis]

tured u 2 do a job i quoted a few weeks bk..was a livin room..was striped when i looked at it..came bk 2 day 2 do it..the skirtings had been glossed and new rads had been fitted! i dint price for eny of it..

so the guy said dnt wori im not fussy just go round the rad!

and i did!
wot a crap finish...

 

[bigsegs]

easy job liftin rads off mate... just turn both valves off, undo the rad from the valve bodies (leave the tails in the rad) and tip it into a bucket... you can leave the boiler switched on.
specially new rads, they tend to be a hell of a lot lighter than the older ones..
to refit just reverse the procedure, DONT over tighten the nuts (if it leaks just give em quarter turn extra, overtighten em and it might leak, then your shafted)
open the bleed valve, open the trv (the one with the numbers on), let the rad fill, EDIT close the bleed valve then open the locksheild (other valve)...
if its a combi boiler (no hot water cylinder) look underneath the boiler and youll find a silver flexi pipe connecting the mains cold with the system 'flow' pipe... itll have a valve you can turn, if the 'handle' has been removed use a pair of pliers...
turn the boiler off...
look at the pressure guage on the boiler, open the valve till the guage reads between 1 and 2 bar (1.5 is ideal), shut the valve off, turn the boiler on. job done. charge em an extra 30 quid.
theres no need to add inhibitor for just one rad...
if you find the plumbers been over zealous when he tightened the nuts first time round and when you fit it it leaks, wrap some ptfe round the olive (the wedding ring thing round the valve tail) and nip em back up... dont remove the valve tails at all... if you have and it leaks, remove rad, remove tail, use 'boss green' round the serrated threads and re- fit..
actually, now ive read that back it should say 'charge em an extra 60 quid'  ;D
p.s. if its NOT a combi boiler i.e. hot water cylinder in airing cupboard, dont touch the boiler, it'll fill itself back up...
p.p.s if its one of the newer, pressurised stored water systems, the same applies as to a combi but the filling loop is on the pressurised storage cylinder (they look like a cross between a hot water cylinder and r2d2)
p.p.p.s you DONT have to be corgi registered cos you aint touchin the gas, the householder can do it if they like... but you do need an adjustable spanner (better than grips on new nuts) and a bleed key... never overtighten anything...

 

[oasis]

ohhh i no how 2 take the rads off..thanks any how...just i dint price 4 it..and i hada bad 1 the other week i took a rad off and it leeked and i had 2 call a mate out cost me a small £££

now im trashed of rads

 

[bigsegs]

if it leaks from the bottom of the valve, wrap a tea towel round the pipe underneath it and drop the boiler pressure (in the boiler theres a 3bar pressure valve, coloured red, turn it, the pressure will drop to zero) or bleed water from a bleed valve till it gets to zero..
back off the nut, do the ptfe trick round the olive (quickly), nip it back up... bring it back to pressure...
if it leaks from the valve itself, the valves f'cked, happens a lot, trv's are notorious for it, its usually limescale on the valve seat, not your problem, but if its leaking slowly from the rad end while the rads off try this -
a valve thread is either 1/2" or 3/4" bsp, usually the former these days..
that means either a bath tap connector or a basin tap connector will screw straight onto it..
so, use a flexi tap connector (theyve got rubber washers usually and u can nip em hand tight) with a bit of 15mm copper on the other end with a push fit stop end over that...
or even a bit of 15 copper (or 22 if its 3/4) with an olive and a nut with a stop end...
now ill tell u where i learnt that...
we did a job once where we extended above the kitchen, the bedroom above became part of the new extension albeit bigger.
extension was up, roof on, no window in though (late delivery, covered with plastic) late november this was...
rad was took off to enable the overskim through to the new section of wall...
gravity system - fills itself....
5 o clock in the morning, when it was at its coldest the trv decided to open, and they dont open a bit, they open right up...
on a trv theres a little asterisk, thats 'frostguard', some of em have to move a little plastic pin to turn it past frostguard to zero...
this one did, nobody realised...
like i said, 5 o clock in the morning, pop goes the valve, and cos its a gravity system it just kept going...and going...and going...
until somebody got out of bed at 7 oclock and found the house full of water... it absolutely flooded the place, it was in the coving, the brickwork, behind the d+d, carpets wrecked, ceilings wrecked, electrics popped....
never again....
now if i take a rad off if theres the slightest doubt the trv gets the stop end trick...

 

[topmark]

Got a couple of TRV cappers in my toolbox, them bleeders leaking especially when temp. drops are a tale have heard a few times.

Your a fountain of knowledge segs, Thanks