Newly boarded and skimmed ceiling cracking?

lurpak

Artex Boy
seriously @tapit lol. Id use whatever i had for a little patch. 9.5mm is rare as rocking horse s**t on re skims for a start.

If its9.5 n you only have 12.5 for a PATCH. Peel paper off , flat it back. Pva. Scrim n skim. Theres always a way. Only someone who doesn’t know what they’re doing would leave the job to buy a 9.5 board for a lil patch.

if you’re really scared just feather further out
 

tapit

Well-Known Member
seriously @tapit lol. Id use whatever i had for a little patch. 9.5mm is rare as rocking horse s**t on re skims for a start.

If its9.5 n you only have 12.5 for a PATCH. Peel paper off , flat it back. Pva. Scrim n skim. Theres always a way. Only someone who doesn’t know what they’re doing would leave the job to buy a 9.5 board for a lil patch.

if you’re really scared just feather further out
only a chancer would not keep some 9.5 board handy for patching 9.5 boarded walls/ceilings.
 

John j

Mono Don
Hi there, I am new to this forum but would be very grateful for some advice from fellow plasters. I have been in the building trade for about 20 years and in the last 10 years set up by myself and taken on a lot more plastering work. however, a few months ago a took down an old ceiling in a massive kitchen, moved a wall, re-boarded it with 9.5mm boards, skim taped it, screwed it up exactly the same as I always do and skimmed it. Then 3 months later it has started to crack and has come loose in places. The house owner is obviously not happy and has left threatening voicemail messages on my phone. He thinks the timber we screwed into wasn't thick enough and so he and the other builder I was working with have put in a lot more timber above and re-screwed, filled and repainted but it is still cracking. I really don't know why this is happening. I haven't done anything different to any other ceiling I have boarded and skimmed? I am going back today to try and work out why this is happening. It is a 80's built bungalow so there is nothing above the kitchen. My initial thought was that the thin factory made trusses they used in the roof maybe causing slight movement to the ceiling? The owner of the house is adamant that this is not caused by movement from above and is because we haven't screwed the boards up properly but I didn't do anything different to any other ceiling I have done. I really don't know why this is happening, can anyone help?
What timber did you screw in to and what is abouve.


We did one a few months back . We never boarded it and was for over kids sister . He told her joists were wrong. Anyway it was a good five bagger and he told me ever joint had a crack . Then a few weeks later he sid all cracks had gone. No one had filled em put it down to joists expanding
 
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bof

Well-Known Member
What timber did you screw in to and what is abouve.


We did one a few months back . We never boarded it and was for over kids sister . He told her joists were wrong. Anyway it was a good five bagger and he told me ever joint had a crack . Then a few weeks later he sid all cracks had gone. No one had filled em put it down to joists expanding
Was just about to mention that , nice warm room on a freezing day and patio doors flung open , have witnessed it ping
 

John j

Mono Don
Was just about to mention that , nice warm room on a freezing day and patio doors flung open , have witnessed it ping
This was on a new build. They had to do summet to em at first as they were shaking when people went up stair.
Me personal thinks owt over 400 shouldnt be allowed just penny pinching
 
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Robbo123

Well-Known Member
are you f**k**g joking or what. 9.5 board skimmed. 12.5mm will be approximately flush. Then skim n feather in as normal.
He's bloody useless. Cuts corners on every job. If you gave him some 12.5mm to patch up 9.5mm ceiling he wouldn't be able to work it out lol
 

lurpak

Artex Boy
He's bloody useless. Cuts corners on every job. If you gave him some 12.5mm to patch up 9.5mm ceiling he wouldn't be able to work it out lol

this is my point. It’s not always straight forward but there’s always a way it’s plastering not rocket science
 

bof

Well-Known Member
this is my point. It’s not always straight forward but there’s always a way it’s plastering not rocket science
Interesting fact about rocket science , when injecting fuel if you electrically charge it with a small DC battery then when injected the fuel particles repel each other and burn better
 

tapit

Well-Known Member
what do you do for a living
working on this at the moment sbeadfix logo.png
 

lurpak

Artex Boy
Interesting fact about rocket science , when injecting fuel if you electrically charge it with a small DC battery then when injected the fuel particles repel each other and burn better

Agreed. Would certainly increase reaction mass at the highest achievable velocity.
 
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stuart23

Private Member
Hi there, I am new to this forum but would be very grateful for some advice from fellow plasters. I have been in the building trade for about 20 years and in the last 10 years set up by myself and taken on a lot more plastering work. however, a few months ago a took down an old ceiling in a massive kitchen, moved a wall, re-boarded it with 9.5mm boards, skim taped it, screwed it up exactly the same as I always do and skimmed it. Then 3 months later it has started to crack and has come loose in places. The house owner is obviously not happy and has left threatening voicemail messages on my phone. He thinks the timber we screwed into wasn't thick enough and so he and the other builder I was working with have put in a lot more timber above and re-screwed, filled and repainted but it is still cracking. I really don't know why this is happening. I haven't done anything different to any other ceiling I have boarded and skimmed? I am going back today to try and work out why this is happening. It is a 80's built bungalow so there is nothing above the kitchen. My initial thought was that the thin factory made trusses they used in the roof maybe causing slight movement to the ceiling? The owner of the house is adamant that this is not caused by movement from above and is because we haven't screwed the boards up properly but I didn't do anything different to any other ceiling I have done. I really don't know why this is happening, can anyone help?
Movement of the house isn’t your problem. For example in my house ceilings in living room and upstairs bedroom had big crack running right along them. I dropped both ceilings, double sheeted with sound block staggering the joints different ways each time I boarded and the cracks still came back in exact same place on both ceilings. Had a customer try to get me to sign an ‘agreement’ which had been drawing up by a solicitor which stated if I started work repairing the crack in his ceiling I was to be held responsible if it came back within ten year lol he’d had a few plasterers attempt to fix it but it always came back.
 

Stevieo

Royal Spin Doctor
Movement of the house isn’t your problem. For example in my house ceilings in living room and upstairs bedroom had big crack running right along them. I dropped both ceilings, double sheeted with sound block staggering the joints different ways each time I boarded and the cracks still came back in exact same place on both ceilings. Had a customer try to get me to sign an ‘agreement’ which had been drawing up by a solicitor which stated if I started work repairing the crack in his ceiling I was to be held responsible if it came back within ten year lol he’d had a few plasterers attempt to fix it but it always came back.
Caulk.
 

Wayners

Well-Known Member
Every bungalow I work on I go up in loft and stick strips of plasterboard to the joints. Use anything like easyfill or cove adhesive. Used multi finish to, but don't stick so well until it's dried so not the best. I missed one joint in a ceiling in November (FFS)and it cracked. I decided to put £5 4m timer across (brace) screwed to joists and stuck my plasterboard strips to back of ceiling joints. Used the fine thin mesh cut in half and toupret filler (see picture) sealed just along crack so I could keep filler thin. Sanded and painted. All good. No great effort or cost to fix.
IMG_20191202_173214_compress74.jpg
 
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