new here anyone got advice on mixing terrazzo????

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hi new to the site I'm looking to do some terrazzo in my house and well just learn how to do it. every site I visit just says cement which tells me s**t! if anyone have any advice on the ratios or anything I have to add to it would be grate?????? iv done two tests myself one with a 2:1:1 mix which polished up really well but everything I try with sand in the mix just turns to dust? and iv done one where I just used cement and chippings which worked well but again can replicate it and ideas???????
 
Could you not try tile adhesive ? It may work as a binder ! I have only ever tiled with terrazzo and that was in the late 80's though :sorprendido3:
 
hi new to the site I'm looking to do some terrazzo in my house and well just learn how to do it. every site I visit just says cement which tells me s**t! if anyone have any advice on the ratios or anything I have to add to it would be grate?????? iv done two tests myself one with a 2:1:1 mix which polished up really well but everything I try with sand in the mix just turns to dust? and iv done one where I just used cement and chippings which worked well but again can replicate it and ideas???????

I have no idea... in these situation @Rigsby or @malc come to the rescue :D
 
Just remembered the only time I ever saw it done was on an episode of this old house on discovery shed years ago and they were using epoxy resin as the binder. They were also using wet grinders to polish it when set and it also went down in 2 or 3 layers before grinding\polishing using progressively finer grinding stones.
 
the last time i saw terrazzo floors was at lakeside shopping mall. it was done by Italian labour who had come over to uk to do the task.
they had huge polishing machines and a heap of grout which went on forever. the floors where then covered with sheets of ply for protection.
 
Could you not try tile adhesive ? It may work as a binder ! I have only ever tiled with terrazzo and that was in the late 80's though :sorprendido3:
lol sounds good. I'm trying all sorts someone said somthing about useing some sort of dust but can't remember what kind. apparently the Italians used to chuck it in the mix
 
the strange thing is I did it with just cement and green glass I smashed up came out really well ill try post a pic and one with sharp sand and black pigment wich was better but can't seem to do it again. but the sharp sand one sat outside for months so I think it super cured lol
 
see if this works
 

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Just remembered the only time I ever saw it done was on an episode of this old house on discovery shed years ago and they were using epoxy resin as the binder. They were also using wet grinders to polish it when set and it also went down in 2 or 3 layers before grinding\polishing using progressively finer grinding stones.
the only videos I find out there are have no info on the mix or method they just show pics of it saying ( mix it out a bag, put it down, polish it, and your done. yaaay) they all done by drips lol tells me nothing. this place seem better people and experience to learn from
 
the only videos I find out there are have no info on the mix or method they just show pics of it saying ( mix it out a bag, put it down, polish it, and your done. yaaay) they all done by drips lol tells me nothing. this place seem better people and experience to learn from

if you google, Pietra Dura, the original Italian ones are based on slate, but the I****n ones are a lot cheaper and based on resin. these patterns may be of interest to you.
 
lol sounds good. I'm trying all sorts someone said somthing about useing some sort of dust but can't remember what kind. apparently the Italians used to chuck it in the mix
Volcanic or crushed pumice stone dust but they would of been used as a pozzilan in a hydraulic lime mixture to help get a stronger cure. The two afore mentioned are the secret ingredient in roman concrete.
 
Volcanic or crushed pumice stone dust but they would of been used as a pozzilan in a hydraulic lime mixture to help get a stronger cure. The two afore mentioned are the secret ingredient in roman concrete.
cheers I'll check them out. gonna need a bigger shed
 
Only seen it done once in 1977. A company called Andrews from Leeds did it. Laid it then a machine finished it.
 
hi new to the site I'm looking to do some terrazzo in my house and well just learn how to do it. ...?

Not sure exactly what you have used but...
Use portland cement, not mastercrete etc.
3:2:2 Sand/ag/Cem should be OK. Washed sharp/quartz or similar.
Keep the mix dry as poss, use a superplasticiser. Prevent from drying too quick.
Leave 10 days or so before starting grind. Even better keep some samples from the mix to test for hardness.
Start with turbo cup grind and then run up through pads to 800 grit.

Sand dusting means you may have used sand with fines or more likely the cement hadn't hardened enough so the finer aggregate is pulling out.
 
this is really helpful. strangely what t33ch saying I understand lol I'd thought some my problem might be the fine aggregate and the cure plus the binder I'm useing dose seem s**t but I used it coz it was there after patching a floor. gutted about the big cast iv done suppose I could do some polish plaster over it lol. thanks everyone great stuff!!!
 
I got a makita wet grinder to do it all with and an 3m polishing pad to test with. people keep telling me and need a floor polished when I come to it but it's only gonna be like a 1m2 to start off I'm lucky if the hire places where I am got wheel barrow let alone floor polisher
 
I got a makita wet grinder to do it all with and an 3m polishing pad to test with. people keep telling me and need a floor polished when I come to it but it's only gonna be like a 1m2 to start off I'm lucky if the hire places where I am got wheel barrow let alone floor polisher

Small polisher fine on such a small area, just need knee pads.
I use a cheapy double row cup disk to hack large amounts off, then a 80 grit aluminium turbo disc to smooth out and still cut meat off. Then you're down to pads; copper bonded 200-400 then resin bonded 400-800 I double on the 400 as the coppers just seem more agressive for same grit. You can go past 800 but I wouldn't bother as hardener/sealer gives it a bit of shine.
You've really got to hit it at the right time. Too late and you'll be in tears with aching arms/shoulder/back; too early and you'll rip the aggregate out turn the whole thing into a slurry mess.
 
Haha hahaha just noticed the cavity wall thing at top the people I work for think u can take it out "let it dry out a bit" thenot pump it back in and stick this bostick bull over the top and it's cured lol just started a shap sand 3.2.2 mix fingers crossed the last one wasn't to bad just didn't shine up much that was 2 cement but was mastercrete and one kiln dry 2 ag I'll have to pick up some portland maybe grano dust
 
Haha hahaha just noticed the cavity wall thing at top the people I work for think u can take it out "let it dry out a bit" thenot pump it back in and stick this bostick bull over the top and it's cured lol just started a shap sand 3.2.2 mix fingers crossed the last one wasn't to bad just didn't shine up much that was 2 cement but was mastercrete and one kiln dry 2 ag I'll have to pick up some portland maybe grano dust

we stopped using grano dust years ago as it was found out to be a link to cancer
 
i presume that it must be respiratory,
it must be 30 years since i laid a grano screed. you needed the dust to gain a decent finish and the spec did not want you to add sand.
yer my 1st thoughts where that the finer the sand might be better Finnish y I used kiln dry. plus didn't have them bits that look like toenail clipping like in the sharp sand
 
yer my 1st thoughts where that the finer the sand might be better Finnish y I used kiln dry. plus didn't have them bits that look like toenail clipping like in the sharp sand
Finer aggregate tend to lead to weaker mix as it increases the water requirements (hence use superplasticiser). Having said that most the strength comes from the sub base and it's actually hardness you're looking for (oo-errr missus).

I've got bags of silica fume in the garage which have a grain size similar to cigarette smoke but I must admit I thoroughly dislike wearing face masks.
 
Finer aggregate tend to lead to weaker mix as it increases the water requirements (hence use superplasticiser). Having said that most the strength comes from the sub base and it's actually hardness you're looking for (oo-errr missus).

I've got bags of silica fume in the garage which have a grain size similar to cigarette smoke but I must admit I thoroughly dislike wearing face masks.
I don't like wearing them. pain in the ass but better than bad health I suppose. my works tyres to make shave our beards for them say we got to be clean shaven. I don't see other sites like it myself. started a sharp sand one yesterday so good few days see how it turns out just got away with the kiln dry one iv slurry the top to fill bits in and see if I can get a shine with it
 
well they turned out pretty good thanks everyone for the help it's help a lot gonna try more stuff soon and post up my progress cheers everyone. the sharp sand defiantly the way to go but I seem to have made a monstrosity with a kiln dry mix I can't even brake the skin on lol ?
 

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I might try another with graded clear glass and white chip. I'm thinking if my sand is finer I could get away with a well mix graded of aggregates coz the sharp sand in useing is filled with to much s**t for a purer outcome with the colour. but maybe a trip to 7 sands might help
 

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I might try another with graded clear glass and white chip. I'm thinking if my sand is finer I could get away with a well mix graded of aggregates coz the sharp sand in useing is filled with to much s**t for a purer outcome with the colour. but maybe a trip to 7 sands might help

Use white cement and pigment it. Standard grey is so boring.
Get hold of some decent ground quartz or white sand as it's usually better quality (though more expensive).
You don't actually need the sand at all, but it makes the mix cheaper. Without sand they call it RPC (reactive powder concrete), very brittle and hard as glass.
 
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