maite

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luke the puke

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got a job of going over cracked painted render its solid so parex rep said thin coat of maite pinned then revlane bucket
coat
i coated and pinned the maite ran a notched trowel over ,i let it pick up then put a thin coat over let that pull in then tried to sponge finish
stuff just tears is there a better way over getting it finished as only way i found that worked was to have the sponge float soaking in water so it didn't tear it
 
Most of the thin coats need a knack to get a finish. Finishing wet usually fails and Maite is one of the worst.

I now take the longer way. Apply 2/3 to 3/4 thickness and rule flat with a serrated straight edge. Bed mesh in lightly and spat flat. Depending on the time of year either leave till next day or the afternoon then skim with 2mm and spat as smooth as you can. Leave to set then scrape any edges out and smooth with a carborundum stone. It will end up flat as glass.
 
Most of the thin coats need a knack to get a finish. Finishing wet usually fails and Maite is one of the worst.

I now take the longer way. Apply 2/3 to 3/4 thickness and rule flat with a serrated straight edge. Bed mesh in lightly and spat flat. Depending on the time of year either leave till next day or the afternoon then skim with 2mm and spat as smooth as you can. Leave to set then scrape any edges out and smooth with a carborundum stone. It will end up flat as glass.
i did a panel today got it ok with the sponge but would i be able to give another thing coat on Saturday to sort it out or would it have dried out to much suff sticks like s**t so should be ok
 
Maite is such a heavy polymer. Once the polymers start binding it will just tear for fun. Get it as flat as possible with a good spat and leave it at that.
Like Rigsby says if you have a few marks just grind/scrape them out.
 
As John said Matie is a difficult product to finish ! We apply it to thickness and then apply a tight finish coat when it’s picked up and finish with spats straight away ! Which rep speced pinned mesh ?
 
are you not getting your wires crossed?
If it’s going over paint then it doesn’t want to be maitie anyhow, it’s the wrong product. They do a product called parinter used for a thin coat system that goes over paint without pinning.
It’s totally different to maitie as it’s lime based it eats into the paintwork. I find it better to use than maitie there’s no tearing with it. Maitie we do as above, colder weather leave overnight and close on with a 2 mm pass the next day, this time of year apply first thing and close later in day depending on temps etc.
 
are you not getting your wires crossed?
If it’s going over paint then it doesn’t want to be maitie anyhow, it’s the wrong product. They do a product called parinter used for a thin coat system that goes over paint without pinning.
It’s totally different to maitie as it’s lime based it eats into the paintwork. I find it better to use than maitie there’s no tearing with it. Maitie we do as above, colder weather leave overnight and close on with a 2 mm pass the next day, this time of year apply first thing and close later in day depending on temps etc.
Parinter is limited though if the paint is oil based isn’t it? Must be an oil based paint rich
 
Parinter is limited though if the paint is oil based isn’t it? Must be an oil based paint rich
Its a fair point,
But I wonder if he’s done a test panel to see the suitability in any case.oil based paint on masonary is few and far between, most masonary paint is water based ain’t it.wont be an issue in a few years as there phasing oil based paints out due to environmental reasons.
 
We’ve done 100s of parinter jobs over the years and we’ve probably had just 2 or 3that failed a test (probably due to an oil based paint) I just scored the surface with a grinder first for a mechanical key, plus maitie is 40% more expensive than parinter.
 
Parinter is limited though if the paint is oil based isn’t it? Must be an oil based paint rich
The matie will be specked for a reason
Matie will give a better bond and more flexibility so better for the poor substrate
 
i did a panel today got it ok with the sponge but would i be able to give another thing coat on Saturday to sort it out or would it have dried out to much suff sticks like s**t so should be ok

Yes you can but spat as soon as it goes on before it starts skinning. Scrape to flat Monday onwards.

Don’t play with it.
 
I find a hard sponge float the best for rubbing up if its starts acting up. @owls is parinter easier to get flat? And woukd you got 10mm rather than 6mm
 
I find a hard sponge float the best for rubbing up if its starts acting up. @owls is parinter easier to get flat? And woukd you got 10mm rather than 6mm
It’s more grittier than maitie so when you’ve got it flat it’s slightly pitted, I usually use one of them
Magic sponge jobbies. It’s like any other product once you use a lot of it you get to know the traits of using it.
I don’t know what you mean by got 10mm or 6mm, so I’ll say yes and no and possibly maybe...
 
It’s more grittier than maitie so when you’ve got it flat it’s slightly pitted, I usually use one of them
Magic sponge jobbies. It’s like any other product once you use a lot of it you get to know the traits of using it.
I don’t know what you mean by got 10mm or 6mm, so I’ll say yes and no and possibly maybe...
I meant go not got. as in do you put it on at 6mm or 10mm as a basecoat over paint
 
are you not getting your wires crossed?
If it’s going over paint then it doesn’t want to be maitie anyhow, it’s the wrong product. They do a product called parinter used for a thin coat system that goes over paint without pinning.
It’s totally different to maitie as it’s lime based it eats into the paintwork. I find it better to use than maitie there’s no tearing with it. Maitie we do as above, colder weather leave overnight and close on with a 2 mm pass the next day, this time of year apply first thing and close later in day depending on temps etc.
parex rep said i couldn't thin coat over parinter because of the lime content had a couple of people say this
thats why the spec was maite and said i don't need to prime it before i use rev lane over the top
 
You can’t thin coat over parinter as said before it eats into the painted substrate (which is suppose to do) but also eats into the thin coat you put on the top (not suppose to do)

When trying to achieve a thin coat finish over paint we base it with parinter, full mesh, coat with parmurex/monogris e and then sponge finish prime and top coat.

We’ve never used maite over paint, it’s for cement board and eps only as far as am aware
 
You can’t thin coat over parinter as said before it eats into the painted substrate (which is suppose to do) but also eats into the thin coat you put on the top (not suppose to do)

When trying to achieve a thin coat finish over paint we base it with parinter, full mesh, coat with parmurex/monogris e and then sponge finish prime and top coat.

We’ve never used maite over paint, it’s for cement board and eps only as far as am aware
it only eats into the paint while it cures, if you prime it after it’s cured (to kill any suction) you can use what ever you wish ie monorex or dpr.
We were one of the contractors that actually trialled parinter when it first come over about 8 years ago for Parex, and have used it extensively since working with the reps on larger or jobs slightly out of the norm, and have used monorex and dpr in equal measure.
 
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parex rep said i couldn't thin coat over parinter because of the lime content had a couple of people say this
thats why the spec was maite and said i don't need to prime it before i use rev lane over the top

I’ve never heard of that being said,all dpr is a breathable coating in any case.
 
The problem is the reps are trying to cover there arses all the time so nothing comes back on them, in our compensation culture.
I had one the other day for a mono manufacturer (I won’t name) telling us we shouldn’t use solvent based sealants to stick beads on, just in case it bleads through.
 
Jesus that’s long winded!

Not at all mate, base and mesh a house out in around an hour or 2 and top off a day or 2 later with parmurex/monogris

Works out cheaper, days are easier as soon as you’ve topped it you can turn back and start sponging, floating up.

Parmurex and monogris sponge up lovely, no tearing, dragging or pulling.
 
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Not at all mate, base and mesh a house out in around an hour or 2 and top off a day or 2 later with parmurex/monogris

Works out cheaper, days are easier as soon as you’ve topped it you can turn back and start sponging, floating up.

Parmurex and monogris sponge up lovely, no tearing, dragging or pulling.
I thought you were saying, Parinter, parmurex, prime, DPR. My mistake
 
I thought you were saying, Parinter, parmurex, prime, DPR. My mistake
I’ve done it that way over painted roughcasting. parinter, parmurex, primer dpr. If your spraying your base coats goes on in no time though.
 
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It’s just if your topping off with dpr sand fine at 1mm grain size, your base has got to be bang on otherwise it shows up imperfections in your top coat.
I’ve said with the Parex rep when I’ve said how do they paint over lime renders then or lime mortar joints with breathable water based paint on a stabalizer with no issues and all dpr is, is breathable acrylic paint with texture in it over lime mortar ie parinter followed by there primer...erm... it’s because ....erm..
 
You can’t thin coat over parinter as said before it eats into the painted substrate (which is suppose to do) but also eats into the thin coat you put on the top (not suppose to do)

When trying to achieve a thin coat finish over paint we base it with parinter, full mesh, coat with parmurex/monogris e and then sponge finish prime and top coat.

We’ve never used maite over paint, it’s for cement board and eps only as far as am aware
It’s fine over paint mate
 
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