Ka tanking slurry- Has it failed?

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Breadbin

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image.jpg
Salt on walls? After blow drying.
image.jpg

Still damp 3 weeks later
image.jpg
image.jpg

This was it when originally applied.
image.jpg

This was the original wall.

Hi all

I am new on here. Just wanted to get some advice regarding tanking of a wall.

I have a wall which is built into a hill and thus is about 1m underground. There were significant damp issues with the wall when we uncovered it.

It had originally been injected 10 yrs ago and when the original company came round as part of the guarantee. Surprise surprise they said the guarantee was void unless the work was rendered as well.

So we decided to fully tank the wall instead and used ka tanking slurry. With returns on either side of the wall. According to the builder he applied it correctly and he did remove all the original paint that was on the wall and then keyed it prior to applying the slurry.

It is now 3 weeks down the line and there are patches of the wall which are still quite wet looking. The tanking looks visibly damp which is alarming! There is even surface water in places which comes off on your finger. Mostly in the upper part of the wall.

I spoke to the manufacturers who suggested it was condensation. Unusual as the room has no windows right now with wooden boards in their place. Very drafty! So they suggested drying the wall with a blowdry. I did the same and all this did was to cause white crystals to collect on the wall. But the dampness in the plaster has remained.

So I called them again. And they have again suggested condensation and have suggested painting with a white emulsion to warm up the wall. Now call me naiive but this sounds ridiculous. Has anyone ever used this product? And is painting really the solution? How is 0.5mm of paint going to warm up a wall?

I have a gut feeling that the tanking has failed and that it needs a further coat. But I seem to be being taken for a ride.

I need to find a solution as my builder is now threatening to plaster board up the wall before it has completely dried. And I am worried that the moisture will just sit there forever and become mouldy.

Any help would be much appreciated!
 
for under ground application most specs recommend you render the wall with sand and cement with sbr in then tank on top of that render...i never like the cementous slurry as all it takes is a pin prick hole and its failed.... i would have used a membrine and insulated plasterboard....
 
So are we agreed that it looks like it has failed? These guys at KA are just passing it off as normal...

Beddy- only half the wall was underground so they injected above the ground level... which was halfway up the wall!
 
Some people put the slurry on to thin. They make it to wet and and spread it to much which creates weak points where it isn't thick enough.
Are you sure the paint was removed?
Also it could well be condensation.
I would put some vents on your walls to allow some air to get behind it after or it's just going to be like a blocked cavity!
Treated timber would also of been better for the walls in those areas with the tanking and I'd use foil backed board when tacking.
 
brimplas1 said:
for under ground application most specs recommend you render the wall with sand and cement with sbr in then tank on top of that render...i never like the cementous slurry as all it takes is a pin prick hole and its failed.... i would have used a membrine and insulated plasterboard....
Click to expand...

I must admit I'm the opposite, I don't like membranes unless a sump pump is added or already in place.
 
brimplas1 said:
for under ground application most specs recommend you render the wall with sand and cement with sbr in then tank on top of that render...i never like the cementous slurry as all it takes is a pin prick hole and its failed.... i would have used a membrine and insulated plasterboard....
Click to expand...


As this man says the brick work should of been rendered first it even says so with the ka spec
 
gps said:
I must admit I'm the opposite, I don't like membranes unless a sump pump is added or already in place.
Click to expand...
There's loads of space in that studwork to fit a sump pump, would be best option, so as a French drain outside
 
gps said:
I must admit I'm the opposite, I don't like membranes unless a sump pump is added or already in place.
Click to expand...
Sump pumps are only necessary if you are getting water in or if you are having it as a livable room... which the picture contradicts.
 
The lime mortar pointing is the weak point in the wall. Injecting the wall was pointless. Not being able to see the job makes it difficult to comment. Normally the best wat forward is to tank the wall with a render system and possibly build a free standing insulated stud partition in front of it ( looks like you have enough space)
 
brimplas1 said:
Sump pumps are only necessary if you are getting water in or if you are having it as a livable room... which the picture contradicts.
Click to expand...

Is it not going to be a room though ? For me membranes don't actually solve anything they are just masking the problem, with tanking your preventing the damp penetrating
 
Breadbin said:
So are we agreed that it looks like it has failed? These guys at KA are just passing it off as normal...

Beddy- only half the wall was underground so they injected above the ground level... which was halfway up the wall!
Click to expand...
Is It soil thats half way up the wall outside?
 
irish_spread said:
This may be difficult for you to get your head around but bear with me.

Tanking a wall prevents penetrating damp.

Tomorrow lets look through the round window
Click to expand...


Read my posts dick head that's what I said, maybe you need to learn how to read
 
gps said:
Is it not going to be a room though ? For me membranes don't actually solve anything they are just masking the problem, with tanking your preventing the damp penetrating
Click to expand...


Regarding dickheads.

What's the difference between a membrane stopping penetrating damp and a render stopping penetrating damp ?

I hope this helps you understand x
 
irish_spread said:
Regarding dickheads.

What's the difference between a membrane stopping penetrating damp and a render stopping penetrating damp ?

I hope this helps you understand x
Click to expand...


Lol, membranes don't stop penetrating damp in the brickwork do they, it is just a barrier fixed onto the brickwork so the damp although may not breach the membrane still penetrates the brickwork, I've seen it when membranes have been removed it is filth behind them. So for me I'd alway go tanking over membrane
 
gps said:
Is it not going to be a room though ? For me membranes don't actually solve anything they are just masking the problem, with tanking your preventing the damp penetrating
Click to expand...
A livable room is what I stated lots of people use them for just storage..... tanking as exactly the same as membranes as it traps the moisture in the brick.......unless you tank the outside..
 
gps said:
Lol, membranes don't stop penetrating damp in the brickwork do they, it is just a barrier fixed onto the brickwork so the damp although may not breach the membrane still penetrates the brickwork, I've seen it when membranes have been removed it is filth behind them. So for me I'd alway go tanking over membrane
Click to expand...


God, this is like pulling teeth.

Ok, I'm going to try and make this fairly basic so there's no need for you to reply and make a fool of yourself again.

If you put a w/p cement based render on damp brickwork it should stop penetrating damp, erm, getting to the other side, so to speak.

If you use a plastic membrane to the damp brickwork it should stop penetrating damp, erm, getting to the other side, so to speak.

This must be the part you're struggling to get your head around. The bricks my old mucker will still be wet.

I hope this helps x
 
irish_spread said:
God, this is like pulling teeth.

Ok, I'm going to try and make this fairly basic so there's no need for you to reply and make a fool of yourself again.

If you put a w/p cement based render on damp brickwork it should stop penetrating damp, erm, getting to the other side, so to speak.

If you use a plastic membrane to the damp brickwork it should stop penetrating damp, erm, getting to the other side, so to speak.

This must be the part you're struggling to get your head around. The bricks my old mucker will still be wet.

I hope this helps x
Click to expand...


Who's struggling lol, I was just giving my preference of the two which is tanking as in my opinion it's by far better, but you clearly could not see that and wanted to make yourself look a smart arse, from my first post to this one I have only said tanking is better.
 
Delta membrane
Standard procedure !


Not worth the effort
With rakin brickwork joints out ect
Before tanking
 
Breadbin said:
View attachment 7086Salt on walls? After blow drying.
View attachment 7085
Still damp 3 weeks later View attachment 7084 View attachment 7082
This was it when originally applied. View attachment 7083
This was the original wall.

Hi all

I am new on here. Just wanted to get some advice regarding tanking of a wall.

I have a wall which is built into a hill and thus is about 1m underground. There were significant damp issues with the wall when we uncovered it.

It had originally been injected 10 yrs ago and when the original company came round as part of the guarantee. Surprise surprise they said the guarantee was void unless the work was rendered as well.

So we decided to fully tank the wall instead and used ka tanking slurry. With returns on either side of the wall. According to the builder he applied it correctly and he did remove all the original paint that was on the wall and then keyed it prior to applying the slurry.

It is now 3 weeks down the line and there are patches of the wall which are still quite wet looking. The tanking looks visibly damp which is alarming! There is even surface water in places which comes off on your finger. Mostly in the upper part of the wall.

I spoke to the manufacturers who suggested it was condensation. Unusual as the room has no windows right now with wooden boards in their place. Very drafty! So they suggested drying the wall with a blowdry. I did the same and all this did was to cause white crystals to collect on the wall. But the dampness in the plaster has remained.

So I called them again. And they have again suggested condensation and have suggested painting with a white emulsion to warm up the wall. Now call me naiive but this sounds ridiculous. Has anyone ever used this product? And is painting really the solution? How is 0.5mm of paint going to warm up a wall?

I have a gut feeling that the tanking has failed and that it needs a further coat. But I seem to be being taken for a ride.

I need to find a solution as my builder is now threatening to plaster board up the wall before it has completely dried. And I am worried that the moisture will just sit there forever and become mouldy.

Any help would be much appreciated!
Click to expand...

My wall looked the same as this before tanking! From what I 've been told small water droplets on the surface of the tanking is called 'sweating'

I had the same and was advised to ventilate the room, and render with 3:1 with waterproofer 10mm coat followed by dot and dab insulated plasterboards
 
Hi can you answer a couple of questions for me so I can understand how this is leaking

1. Was the wall cleaned off back to the original brick, all paint removed etc?
2. Did you apply a backing render coat ?
3. how did you mix the tanking, did you just use water or did you use additives too i.e. SBR

I come across this all the time, so called "damp proofers" who read the salesman's shite and now can feed the 5000.

Look you have to understand more than just ingress of moisture you also have to work out the ground conditions its not a easy as slapping s**t to the wall and hoping it works.
 
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