K17 won't stick

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drakie

New Member
Got a problem sticking k17 thermal boards. Using knauf bonding compound onto stone walls dots stiking ok to stone before getting chance to drill and plug them the boards are coming clean off adhesive leaving dots on wall paper on back of boards clean as a whistle ....any suggestions .
 

madmonk

Private Member
You could try an prime the back of the boards with bondit might help also with the knauf driwall addy make it a tad wetter I find
 

drakie

New Member
Yes know what you what you mean driwall wet enough .bondit would work I think but builder not going to pay for extras which that would be a lot considering we've got 350 of them to stick thanks for reply
 

madmonk

Private Member
Could you not prop them with some timbers off the floor while ya get a fixing in them or something like that the builder is going to have to understand the problem youve got an try an help
 

pwi

Member
Bit of a grey area this ? . How thick do you need to dab out ? . Perhaps the gun foam may get a better contact
 

bubbles65

Well-Known Member
They're supposed to be fully supported along the bottom anyhow. And I prefer to bang a coat of sand and cement over stonework before dry-lining. Budgets allowing like :RpS_thumbup:
 

drakie

New Member
The worry about that would be once the required three plugs (according to spec) fixed and props moved is it going to stay stuck with only three plugs .again builder don't like extras.
 

spunky

Private Member
If there coming off the back of the boards and you're not bending the boards like Beckham something's wrong, you should use multi purpose adhesive don't know if you are already and are you dabbing them the right way round the adhesives meant to be on the wall and the insulation side
 

drakie

New Member
Only bin doing this job 30 odd years and just realised bin putting boards wrong way round thought it was a bit difficult to skim that funny spongy side cheers spunky
 

spunky

Private Member
Just What flynny said was a loud of b*ll***s thats what you do on lintels and smooth surafaces with no key crack on dabbing mate remember you're skimming the board not the insulation lol
 

drakie

New Member
Oh!!!bet it be good if you drew 1to 20 put some circles on it and hey up you got a dart board that big you couldn't miss
 

madmonk

Private Member
How plumb are the walls drake could ya not dab decent strips of plasterboards on at intervals let them set then dab yyour boards on to these sounds like the dabs are not touching inplaces just a thought
 

drakie

New Member
Madmonk dots ok touching boards plenty just not staying stuck you can just see outline on board where adhesive been paper stil intact
 

Jace

Well-Known Member
k17 boards have brownpaper over the insulation on the back thier not just ya standard insulated boards, am i right here?? i used some recently but diddnt have a problem getting them to stick
 

bubbles65

Well-Known Member
look at this:
http://www.kingspaninsulation.co.uk...cd6/Kooltherm-K17-Insulated-Plasterboard.aspx

Top of page 5 says


Plaster Dab / Drywall Adhesive Bonding
This method is suitable for use on masonry cavity walls,
or rendered solid masonry walls which are free from
moisture penetration.
This method is not suitable for use on non−rendered solid
masonry walls where there is a risk of moisture
penetration
, or on timber frame.
Guidelines should be marked out on the floor and ceiling
to indicate where the edges of Kingspan Kooltherm® K17
Insulated Plasterboard should finish.
 
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DannyMac

Private Member
If the dabs aint sticking to the paper you're gonna have to bonding agent the back of the boards.

It'll probably cost an extra couple of hundred quid. Two days for a labourer and 4 tubs of blue grit. water it down a bit and it'll go for miles.

Why the fu'ck they dont put some sort of mesh on those boards is beyond me. And on those crappy smooth metal lintels while I'm on the subject.
 
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warriorupnorth

Private Member
As flynny an Ckj stated , just prime the back of the board with a slightly wetter than normal mix of board addy then dab as normal
 

DannyMac

Private Member
As flynny an Ckj stated , just prime the back of the board with a slightly wetter than normal mix of board addy then dab as normal

But how much will this cost compaired to bluegritting them?

He has 350 of the suckers to stick, I wouldn't fancy smearing the back of 350 boards. It's the time it'll take him and the cost of the material and the extra mixing. Besides, he said that he's already tried that and it didn't work.

Thinking about it, I'd probably use microgobetis. Smaller grit, easier to roll on and goes further.:RpS_thumbup:
 
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CKJ

Member
But how much will this cost compaired to bluegritting them?

He has 350 of the suckers to stick, I wouldn't fancy smearing the back of 350 boards. It's the time it'll take him and the cost of the material and the extra mixing. Besides, he said that he's already tried that and it didn't work.

Thinking about it, I'd probably use microgobetis. Smaller grit, easier to roll on and goes further.:RpS_thumbup:

Your talkin out your arse, just put dabs ont wall as normal then just before putting your board up give em a quick coat, I do three rows vertically and a strip across top and bottom just where my dabs are its just a quick wipe with your trowel.
 

warriorupnorth

Private Member
But how much will this cost compaired to bluegritting them?

He has 350 of the suckers to stick, I wouldn't fancy smearing the back of 350 boards. It's the time it'll take him and the cost of the material and the extra mixing. Besides, he said that he's already tried that and it didn't work.

Thinking about it, I'd probably use microgobetis. Smaller grit, easier to roll on and goes further.:RpS_thumbup:

Whatever
 

flynnyman

Well-Known Member
But how much will this cost compaired to bluegritting them?

He has 350 of the suckers to stick, I wouldn't fancy smearing the back of 350 boards. It's the time it'll take him and the cost of the material and the extra mixing. Besides, he said that he's already tried that and it didn't work.

Thinking about it, I'd probably use microgobetis. Smaller grit, easier to roll on and goes further.:RpS_thumbup:

where you plannin on stacking all these boards whilst they dry? it takes two secs to give the boards a tight coat, the gear will go just as far with a sloppy mix like finish, have a tub for dabbin. Think of it the opposite way round like your dabbing on a wall that has a tight coat of bonding you know its hard to get off even gettin the dabs off with a bolster.
 
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