K-Rend / HP12 on top of Tyrolean OR remove and replace sand/cement render

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markwelsh

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Afternoon,

Looking for some advice please, I've recently had installed new doors and windows on a ground floor extension which is rendered with Tyrolean.
My first though was to have all the existing Tyrolean render removed back to brick work and have it re-rendered with sand/cement , prob not Tyrolean though, and painted.
But, I've been advised/quoted that the existing Tyrolean could be left on and it could be 're-rendered' using K-Rend / HP12 complete with a mesh (including filling in some of the chipped away patches which are down to brick work) then just paint finished. Doing a bit of internet research to try and understand a bit more, is this good practice / recommended, any expereince positive/negative?
 
markwelsh said:
Afternoon,

Looking for some advice please, I've recently had installed new doors and windows on a ground floor extension which is rendered with Tyrolean.
My first though was to have all the existing Tyrolean render removed back to brick work and have it re-rendered with sand/cement , prob not Tyrolean though, and painted.
But, I've been advised/quoted that the existing Tyrolean could be left on and it could be 're-rendered' using K-Rend / HP12 complete with a mesh (including filling in some of the chipped away patches which are down to brick work) then just paint finished. Doing a bit of internet research to try and understand a bit more, is this good practice / recommended, any expereince positive/negative?
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It depends on the state of your existing render and or Tyrolean. If either of them come away they will take the new stuff with it whatever it is, so you need to make sure the existing won’t come off later on
 
As Dan above has said and if currently sound it may well be better than complete renewal.
 
Mate hack off old back to brick and start again it all about the key. Then it will not fall off . Never render over render never never
 
Dansouthcoast84 said:
it can be done and we do go over existing...
you have to make sure paint and render is sound.
we use an adhesive basecoat with full mesh. sometimes we even pin the mesh with 50mm mushroom fixings.
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Dan I’ve never used over old painted but wanted to know why do they say to mesh and pin if the gear is ok to go straight over isn’t that good enough?
 
Vincey said:
Dan I’ve never used over old painted but wanted to know why do they say to mesh and pin if the gear is ok to go straight over isn’t that good enough?
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Mate hack off back to brick is the only way and start again tust me
 
Andy g said:
Mate hack off back to brick is the only way and start again tust me
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I’ve got a very small Art Deco front door tomorrow to kind of smarten up mate two small bits are on paint I’m thinking I’ll try rasolite see if it works tbf normally I would knock off but it’s that old and still some very solid I didn’t want to make it worse
Tbf don’t think could be arsed with all the meshing and pinning etc
 
Vincey said:
I’ve got a very small Art Deco front door tomorrow to kind of smarten up mate two small bits are on paint I’m thinking I’ll try rasolite see if it works tbf normally I would knock off but it’s that old and still some very solid I didn’t want to make it worse
Tbf don’t think could be arsed with all the meshing and pinning etc
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Get a grip mate
 
Andy you're talking s**t, tyrolene is absolutely fine to go over as long as it's sound. Hacking off can do more damage than good when you start disturbing the original brickwork with your breaker.
 
Vincey said:
I’ve got a very small Art Deco front door tomorrow to kind of smarten up mate two small bits are on paint I’m thinking I’ll try rasolite see if it works tbf normally I would knock off but it’s that old and still some very solid I didn’t want to make it worse
Tbf don’t think could be arsed with all the meshing and pinning etc
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GrantyBoy said:
Andy you're talking s**t, tyrolene is absolutely fine to go over as long as it's sound. Hacking off can do more damage than good when you start disturbing the original brickwork with your breaker.
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Ok mate just want to help you 1 hack off back to brick this is a good key for first coat .2 apply first coat a very very good key in scrath render . 3 apply top coat hope this help you
 
Andy g said:
Ok mate just want to help you 1 hack off back to brick this is a good key for first coat .2 apply first coat a very very good key in scrath render . 3 apply top coat hope this help you
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That can be a fool proof way if done correctly. But lots of mistakes can be made also. Dusty surface, too high suction, wrong sand, wrong cement quantities, wrong admixtures, rapid drying.

But if the tyrolean is sound and clean then a modern render system will work perfectly. Rapid drying though in this weather can kill it though.
 
Rigsby said:
That can be a fool proof way if done correctly. But lots of mistakes can be made also. Dusty surface, too high suction, wrong sand, wrong cement quantities, wrong admixtures, rapid drying.

But if the tyrolean is sound and clean then a modern render system will work perfectly. Rapid drying though in this weather can kill it though.
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Ok maybe modern render are better it is 2018 not 1820
 
Well I used the rasolite today had a tester bag for a while and not used it till now, lovely gear , so nice to trowel on , can remember reading someone say they didn’t like the material, was going round in my head they must be bonkers , tbf I really hope the vimark range becomes more readily available in future , as everyone I’ve used has been same, spot on
 
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