JUB range of products, any comments

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ToolGuy

New Member
For external rendering onto a backing board, any comments or advice on JUB thin coat rendering. Considering using their JLM20 base basecoat, UNIGRUND primer Acrylic Slurry Prime Coat, topped with UNIXIL G top cote. Expensive but sounds good for a thin system on a render board.
 

philb

New Member
Used this system good products and good customer service...doing the jub approved applicators course next week, worth get on!!
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
Rich, My local bloke from SPS is moving down your neck. You should give him bell and try the Granicem could be a good product for you spraying mono work
 

Plasterers1StopShop

Private Member
For external rendering onto a backing board, any comments or advice on JUB thin coat rendering. Considering using their JLM20 base basecoat, UNIGRUND primer Acrylic Slurry Prime Coat, topped with UNIXIL G top cote. Expensive but sounds good for a thin system on a render board.

Hi, we sell the full range of Jub products with a tinting machine in house and next day delivery avaliable on most items. In all honesty they are a of a very high quality. All the guys we have sold the products to always come back and use it again. Your more than welcome to come up and have a go with some of the products at our depot.
 

ToolGuy

New Member
Thanks, will be at least a couple more weeks before I can visit Plasterers1StopShop, but am still interested in why the base coat is thought to be hard to use compared to others. I would be hand applying as covering 5 separate smallish area.

Are their other similar products which might be better or easier to use?
 

richardbrown

Private Member
send me a pm about that John.

I found the Jub basecoat kind of sticky to use and hard to achieve a good flat finish ready to receive the topcoat.

I find other basecoats like sm700 (my fav) a dream to use, much easier to control and much more predictable!!!.

This is only my humble opinion....but I am right lol.
 

owls

Private Member
ive had a similiar experience, there base coat is clagy and difficult to trowel up. its no where near sm700 or maitie.
sm700 is marmorit.
 

owls

Private Member
nah its about right, maities around the same.its more of an adhesive to be fair a bag goes along way at the required thickness.
 

owls

Private Member
is it a thin coat base coat not just a backing ie like parmurex ?thats around 8 quid a bag, but its a backing coat ie designed to go on at around 10mm not sort of 4 or 5 mm like your maities etc.
 

ToolGuy

New Member
OK, I made it up to Cheltenham, bought my JUB products and started my job. A few observations: if strictly following instructions can't us in the UK :) (like probably any rendering system) don't use with eminent rain, bright sun. I really feel sorry for any full time rendering person.

Base coat is sort of two layers, the first with notched trowel is reasonably straight forward, then put on the mesh, OK. Over the mesh is a thin second coat where it becomes difficult. It drags something terrible so is difficult to get smooth. OK, I'm not a plasterer just someone having a go with a bit of past experience. Suspect their is a sweet spot in the drying process of that first coat with mesh on that would make this second coat easier. i.e. not as difficult if pushing onto a firmer surface if the base has started to harden.

Primer is easy, just brush on. Top coat is relatively easy, it can drop off little bits when going over with plastic float bringing up the texture so a drop cloth under is useful. Top coat says it needs a day to dry without rain - good luck. Mine seemed to survive with a few hours drying before only light splattering of rain.
 

Gibbo

Well-Known Member
should have done second coat on the mesh day after you just push theesh onto notched coat to hold it then second coat next day to fill it all out all the notch coat does is give correct thickness and eveness
 

owls

Private Member
all so just use a splash of water once its gone when your troweling, that way you get it perfectly flat with out any slacks. and your top coat goes further etc , you can get accelerators these days that you add to your bucket, so it sets hard in about 2 hours meaning you can carry it out in most weathers.
mask any windows up because it will etch glass.

it is a poor comparision in releation to maitie or sm700.
 

ToolGuy

New Member
Had wondered if that sweet spot could be the following day but wasn't sure if needed wet on wet after the notched trowel set thickness or it if was OK on the set basecoat with the mesh in place. Guessed it should be fine as needed that for beads instillation. Is it sensible to slightly dampen the dry ridged basecoat with mess attached before the second layer of basecoat?

Yes, the splash of water does help a lot.
 

ToolGuy

New Member
Just a bit of further observations now that job is done. The hint to let the basecoat go off after putting the mesh on worked well, made producing a smoother coat for the primer and top coat almost easy. The primer and top coat if got some on unmasked surface it cleaned up without leaving a stain if done with water (damp cloth) reasonably quickly.

On my final top coat I should have added just a bit of water to it as it was drying very quickly and didn't blend in perfectly due to unusual warm, dry very windy day. Cooler or damper days it wasn't a problem. The surface of the plastic float does make a difference to appearance. One I used was smooth other had tiny indentations, the one with tiny indentations gave a slightly rougher surface than the smooth one (using the 1.5mm finish coat).

Would use the JUB range again now with more experience of it.
 

goody

Private Member
They say to continuously dry clean the plastic trowel but I prefer to wet clean it. Better finish with less drag
 

Alexander

New Member
on your next job onto render carrier board - try out K rend Silicone TC15 (1.5mm) OR Silicone TC30 (3MM) thincoat render,
 
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