internal damp patch p2

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windy

windy

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Mother in laws job part 2

Removed skirt and found 3 main probs

Backing plaster was all the way down to the floor (and damp)
Pointing is completely goosed (as you can see)
There is a void to the bottom left internal where the wall meets the door

My plan of action was as follows:

Plug internal void with expanding foam
Re point brickwork with s&c
Inject dpc into bottom course once pointing has dried (dryzone)
Apply bonding
Skim

any ideas?
 

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bonding.. :rolleyes)

dricoat...
and dont p'ss about with a square foot...
go a metre either side.. move the bloody washer for a kick off...

its just bridging mate...

inject it by all means just to be on safe side...

looks like dpc is below tiles anyway so if you dont inject it, do a bottle cove fillet at floor/wall using sbr:cement
 
I think it's salt beddy if not then the wall has been rebuilt as there is no paint on morter.
 
I think it was paint

Its not on mortar as i have the loose mortar out

Does this change thing?
 
yes, sand and CEMENT wil suffice, long as its cement based, chuck some 3 in one in it i.e. plasticiser, waterproofer and SALT NEUTRALISER (otherwise known as vinegar)...

dri coat though, doesnt shrink the same, dash the wall with vinegar beforehand (cos the neutraliser in dricoat aint all that) and you can skim it next day and not have to worry bout shrinkage like leaving s+c to cure for the next week...

dont ask...
 
Doesn't change much, just may want to think About some eml. I wouldn't be happy bonding to paint and paint alone.
 
hello mate. i have a very small bay window to do in my house. was gonna buy anti sulphate (pricey)...will vinegar really work?
 
anti suphate (or salt neutraliser) consists of - acetic acid, water and surfactant...
vinegar, water, washing up liquid..
the washing up liquid helps it penetrate, the water helps it on its way and the acetic acid dissolves the 'sulphate'...
 
Ok injected DPC into mortar using dryzone

How long do i have to leave it before i can plaster over with dri coat??????
 
Imagine planting a drip bead on the floor that kind of thing i think though the more i think about about it i dont know why, dont worry Chriss will be back to explain.
 
if the outside ground level is higher than inside then you would need to cut a wall/floor joint out of the screed 12" from wall, then tank wall 6" higher than outside ground level and down into the wall floor joint, drill and inject at top of tanking level then sand cement wall with waterproofer salt inhibitor ,sbr, make sure theres no big stones in the sand as this can bridge the damp...then skim and then fill floor joint with bit of screed.

if theres no height difference. then drill inject at lowest mortar point. then sand cement salt inhibitor waterproofer sbr.. render ,skim and cut of an inch of render and skim off along the bottom so it dosent bridge with floor..:RpS_unsure: comprende.??
 
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bottle cove...
sometimes what you find is the floors been concreted after the house was built, e.g. it was once a wooden floor...
and what they tended to do was ignore any potential bridging problems and just concrete right up to the plasterwork...

so, when you hack it off right down to floor level what you end up with is about an inch of wet soggy plaster between the concrete and the wall...

a bottle cove is just to fill this up...
rake out the loose wet plaster and fill it with a mix of sbr sand and cement, nice and hard... plenty sbr... like a 50:50 sbr and water...
and just run it in about an inch high but not bridging the damp course and run a bottle over it to smooth it off..
the bottle idea gives you a little curved finish as opposed to a 90 degree corner and makes it less likely to crack...
tank over the top and up the wall if you need to as mentioned but that shouldnt be needed here as its an internal wall if im on the right thread from memory...

render it with whatever your gonna use, straight away.... dricoat will supposedly hold the salts back but as mentioned, prolly best to zap the brickwork with some vinegar etc first just to give it a 'booster'...

skim it 24 hours later if its dricoat..

just dont paint it with silk emulsion... it'll still be drying out, so let it, dont seal it in again...
 
Is that white viniger your saying chris or brown. I have just checked on my tub of antisulfat but does not say what it is , only how to use .
£39 + vat .
 
pref white to avoid staining but brown (malt) will do if its just over brickwork youre gonna render... its just acetic acid at the end of the day... works a treat mate, specially round the back of toilets etc... kills the smell too... :RpS_thumbup:
just knock it up 50:50 with water and stick a squirt of fairy in it...

bit like using cream of tartar as a retarder in plaster....
its not exactly 'tri-sodium sulphate' but the essential ingredient is the same innit..
 
Chris W said:
pref white to avoid staining but brown (malt) will do if its just over brickwork youre gonna render... its just acetic acid at the end of the day... works a treat mate, specially round the back of toilets etc... kills the smell too... :RpS_thumbup:
just knock it up 50:50 with water and stick a squirt of fairy in it...

bit like using cream of tartar as a retarder in plaster....
its not exactly 'tri-sodium sulphate' but the essential ingredient is the same innit..
Click to expand...
Your a proper Greeny at heart Chriss innit, love ya.
 
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