imitation block work finish in external render

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ian

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can anyone please help me out .. ive got to do a job soon . the customer wants the render to imitate big stone blockwork .. ive seen it on plenty of big buildings and always wondered how it was done .. please help anyone ..
 
its pretty easy really , pm me with what you want to know and what materials your thinking of using and maybe a pic of the effect your trying to re-create:RpS_thumbup:
 
easiest no pressure way for plain blocks is to render whole wall first then mark it out then you can use a stone cutting disc .break this in half and rub one half of it on some concrete to clean the edge up then just run this along a straight edge on your marks .works really really well done it a few times.if you want slightly wider joints stick some halfs rogether.

this can be done next day no problem
 
nice idea lad, i got taught to key them out, its not an easy process though as you will know, you mark hell out the face, nice one i will try this for sure, i take it you let it cure first ?
 
If you want to do it the same day,ie it has firmed enough a bent 6 inch nail does it.
 
scotsplasterer said:
nice idea lad, i got taught to key them out, its not an easy process though as you will know, you mark hell out the face, nice one i will try this for sure, i take it you let it cure first ?
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you dont have to let it cure per say .as i say next day is fine though the harder it is but not to hard the easier to keep the same depth.it makes a tricky ish job real easy
 
it leaves ragged edges n that i think warriors ways better m8,were all learning everyday, i learned that today, done loads keyse out with allsorts including nails, copper pipe, pointing keys, think warriors way wl leave a sharp looking joint, very realistic, big thumbs up
 
it leaves ragged edges n that i think warriors ways better m8,were all learning everyday, i learned that today, done loads keyse out with allsorts including nails, copper pipe, pointing keys, think warriors way wl leave a sharp looking joint, very realistic,  big thumbs up
 
rockhardsolidplastering said:
you dont have to let it cure per say .as i say next day is fine though the harder it is but not to hard the easier to keep the same depth.it makes a tricky ish job real easy
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sorry ment set till next day dont know why i said cure, sound a great way to save time and leave a better job, so you would be able to do this in bullnoseing aswell, not surwe of english term lol, its like real stone pretruding fron the face, put on with your gauger you know the one ?
 
scotsplasterer said:
sorry ment set till next day dont know why i said cure, sound a great way to save time and leave a better job, so you would be able to do this in bullnoseing aswell, not surwe of english term lol, its like real stone pretruding fron the face, put on with your gauger you know the one ?
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yes i know the finish we have a lot of it here in blackpool (must be all the jocks here) that does seem to have a joint in a wider smooth joint though if its the same as your saying
 
scotsplasterer said:
sorry ment set till next day dont know why i said cure, sound a great way to save time and leave a better job, so you would be able to do this in bullnoseing aswell, not surwe of english term lol, its like real stone pretruding fron the face, put on with your gauger you know the one ?
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flat one was called "ashlar" ...and the protruding one is called "pitch face"
 
authenticlime said:
flat one was called "ashlar" ...and the protruding one is called "pitch face"
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You've educated me:RpS_thumbup: I knew the 'ashlar' jointing name, but not 'pitch face' - I thought that was someone on here:RpS_laugh:

It's been a few years since I done any ashlar, but always used to do it the same day because we were on pin & pole scaffold:RpS_scared: ......and I haven't done any recently, cos I usually talk them out of it by showing them how it leaves a weakness in the top coat - ever noticed when you hack off the old ashlar jointed render it comes off in squares? Freeze-thaw action.:RpS_thumbup:
 
so can you post your method then warrior?? I usually just use a bent 6" nail, straight edges, levels etc
 
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