hydradry tanking

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puckoon

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Hi all. I have been having some issues with plastering after using hydradry.
Once i have put it on, as per instructions, i have then done a scratch coat of washed sand and cement, followed by a float coat of washed and cement prior to setting. But the floating coat is sliding/slumping , prior to setting. Do any of you use hardwall on the coat of washed sand and cement thats on the hydradry?
I was told that hardwall (gypsum) was not to be used on it.
Cheers alan.
 
Your trying to build it out to quick. There is no suction so the render is sliding about.

Did you key the scratch coat?

The only gypsum plaster that should be used is skimming plaster.

Plastering over tanking is always a pain unless you do a lot and are use to it.
 
carlos said:
Your trying to build it out to quick. There is no suction so the render is sliding about.

Did you key the scratch coat?

The only gypsum plaster that should be used is skimming plaster.

Plastering over tanking is always a pain unless you do a lot and are use to it.
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It had a week to dry. The hydradry i mean.
 
Are you putting it on too thick?. When tanking, each coat your going over should be still green not cured
 
Yep that's just how it is. Tight coats and don't play with it.

The render not going off is due to the tanking killing all suction.
Nothing is wrong just you need time.
 
Try doing it on stone built houses with sometimes 3inch of render to lash on the wall, I now tend to use building sand for scratch coats with some plasticiser you can usually get more on then last coat with plastering sand to rub it up.
I have been using a lot more renderlite/limelite after a couple of scratches as that stuff is great for building out.
You could always do the old newspaper trick? but that might be before your time lol
 
bobby said:
Why's that arti?
The small amount of these jobs I have done I let each coat dry before doing the next.
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Its the spec that comes with the gear. it allows better adhesion between coats. the last coat before skimming is the only background we let cure so that the whole background has shrunk before skimming
 
Arti said:
Its the spec that comes with the gear. it allows better adhesion between coats. the last coat before skimming is the only background we let cure so that the whole background has shrunk before skimming
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You mean tanking slurry's or the render coats?
 
Got to agree there, make sure you put sbr in the first coat before the tanking and a splash of waterproofer.

I use a lot more renderlite/renovating as I find it easier than hauling the bloody mixer about etc. and you can get twice as much on as S&C.
The way I look at it is the tanking has waterproofed it so after that its just really cosmetic.
 
puckoon said:
Hi all. I have been having some issues with plastering after using hydradry.
Once i have put it on, as per instructions, i have then done a scratch coat of washed sand and cement, followed by a float coat of washed and cement prior to setting. But the floating coat is sliding/slumping , prior to setting. Do any of you use hardwall on the coat of washed sand and cement thats on the hydradry?
I was told that hardwall (gypsum) was not to be used on it.
Cheers alan.
Click to expand...

use the hydray dry in between the renders not onto the brickwork directly as you will use less and it will cover far better, so scratch coat, hydradry, hydradry up to 3mm thick then render 12mm then skim, it all has to go one when its all green to ensure a key, this way round the slumping will not be half so bad , use a good integral water proofer and bonding agent such as sbr. trimix or rendergaurd gold is a good water proofer, the rest is skill, the more you do the easier it gets, do avoid renovating plasters as they art not suitable above ground on damp walls so should never be used below ground.
 
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