How to tackle this wall

cybervic

New Member
Hi the plaster pros,
I am renovating my flat and would really appreciate if I can get some advice how to tackle this kitchen wall please? I can just about to plaster new plaster board and bricks but don't have any experience with old wall.

So, about 3/4 of the wall is an inside of an external wall. Plaster near ceiling and bottom left were blown so it's showing bricks now. The large grey surface was tiled now skim coat have been removed too. The red circles area still have skim coat on, and painted too. The blue area had rotten kitchen unit, possibly due to condensation. There are also several deep chasing need filling up.

Is it correct to say I have to use base coat on the brick and chased areas up to grey plaster thickness, then skim the whole wall? If so, should I use bonding, hardball, or easy fill?

Must I chip off the skim coat or remove paint red circled area?

Thanks in advance.

32642
 

Stevieo

Royal Spin Doctor
Taking them off isn't going to be a big job is it?

If you try to bond up to them then you'll be left with different substrate which won't go off uniformly -possibly even with grit..

Assuming the plaster is sound, chip it back so you can bond the lot without building it out too much and hey presto, you're ready to skim.

Just be sure to get your bonding nice and flat. No thinking it'll be reet because you're going to bury it. I did that once. Only fcuking once too, because I was WRONG.
 

Havagojo

Active Member
PVA, bonding and one thin multi finish, leave to completely dry , PVA and skim , you will find that easier as you won't have to cope with different drying rates for your top layer
 

cybervic

New Member
Taking them off isn't going to be a big job is it?
Thanks, I know you are right, but all 4 walls in kitchen are like this so I was hoping there's a less dusty solution.

PVA, bonding and one thin multi finish, leave to completely dry , PVA and skim , you will find that easier as you won't have to cope with different drying rates for your top layer
Thanks. The old plaster (I assumed is bonding) is already 12mm. How much thickness can I add to it? If I'm to add 3mm of new bonding on top of it, it means I will be putting at least 15mm on the brick surface, is this ok?

Stick a 9mm pb. On it. Why piss about with bonding ect when your not that experenced .
The wall will have kitchen unit installed so I will try one wall first, if it didn't go well then PB it is.
 

Niftyforfifty

Active Member
Thanks, I know you are right, but all 4 walls in kitchen are like this so I was hoping there's a less dusty solution.


Thanks. The old plaster (I assumed is bonding) is already 12mm. How much thickness can I add to it? If I'm to add 3mm of new bonding on top of it, it means I will be putting at least 15mm on the brick surface, is this ok?


The wall will have kitchen unit installed so I will try one wall first, if it didn't go well then PB it is.
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Havagojo

Active Member
Thanks. The old plaster (I assumed is bonding) is already 12mm. How much thickness can I add to it? If I'm to add 3mm of new bonding on top of it, it means I will be putting at least 15mm on the brick surface, is this ok
Only bond to existing level but multi the whole wall with 1 coat , don't try to finish if your going to struggle with inconsistent suction , the aim is just to flatten and have a consistent material surface
When its dry PVA and skim , you will achieve good quality results easily with less chance of dragging your top coat off the PVA
I have used this approach occasionally on kitchens with all sorts of levels and suctions if I'm overskiming a house , bond and multi wipe the room out first , then skim it properly after I've done the rest of the house , costs me about an extra hour at the end of the day.
I wouldn't be worried about the thickness as long as the original is bonded ok
 

Feck this

Active Member
I would avoid dot and dab in kitchen, you've got to hang wall units and a sound surface would be better. If you go down d and d route than measure out wall bracket height and put plenty of gear along that line, normally 2m to 2.1m, and use at least 75mm screws for wall bracket.
Personally I would hack back and sand and cement walls or if existing sound just build out, then flatten out if needed with hardwall then skim.
But you need walls flat and straight otherwise you'll have trouble fitting wall units keeping them all flush, then If you have upstand on uneven wall your f**k*d.
Normally upwards of £3000 min for kitchen, wasted, and major upheaval, if your not competent at plastering think hard about taking the risk.
If I was you I'd use slightly watered SBR instead of pva you'll find suction more manageable.
 
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cybervic

New Member
I would avoid dot and dab in kitchen

Personally I would hack back and sand and cement walls or if existing sound just build out, then flatten out if needed with hardwall then skim.

If I was you I'd use slightly watered SBR instead of pva you'll find suction more manageable.
Thanks, I don't plan to d&d for the same reason you've mentioned. Can I ask why you would use s&c + hardball instead of bonding?

I am actually thinking of using bond-it instead of PVA, would this be a better choice?
 

cybervic

New Member
Only bond to existing level but multi the whole wall with 1 coat , don't try to finish if your going to struggle with inconsistent suction, the aim is just to flatten and have a consistent material surface
When its dry PVA and skim , you will achieve good quality results easily with less chance of dragging your top coat off the PVA.
Thanks, what problems should I expect with inconsistent suction when putting on 1st multi? Difficult to apply? having bubble? or showing cracks when it's dried up?

how much drying time should I give before 2nd multi coat? 24hr or several days?
 

Havagojo

Active Member
Thanks, what problems should I expect with inconsistent suction when putting on 1st multi? Difficult to apply? having bubble? or showing cracks when it's dried up?

how much drying time should I give before 2nd multi coat? 24hr or several days?
Different thickness of bonding, some areas with no bonding , all will suck differently and may get bubbles and poor bond from over trowelling. if you coat with multi and don't attempt to finish it's easier , leave to dry so no dark patches, then PVA and skim properly
 
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