How to remove Plaster Coving stuck straight onto Soundbloc

kncowans

New Member
Hello all

I have an issue that I hope someone can offer advice on.

I had soundproofing installed in 2018 by the Local Council.

Two of the walls have issues with one wall not being level and the other, well, the finish was not good,

Both walls are Soundbloc 15mm Double Boarded.

My health has not been good and I have only just got to the point where I can look at getting this sorted.

I did contact the Local Council but they said since it had been more than a year since the work was done that they could not sort it.

I did get a Plasterer, who had good reviews, in to skim the walls but he did a poor job, making the walls worse in some respects.

He did not remove the coving and just skimmed up to it which has left a minimal amount of lip on the coving and also did not remove or even loosen the electrical sockets which has also caused problems.

Due to my health I am loathe to get the Plasterer back and also I do not want him to make the issues worse.

Needless to say, I am now looking at getting another Plasterer in to correct the issues, however, one worry, of many, I have is the Coving.

Since the Plasterer skimmed up to the Coving and left a minimal lip I think the Coving will need to be removed in order to re-skim, again.

When the Local Council did the work, on one wall the Coving was stuck on to a Plaster Skim but on the other it was stuck directly on to the Soundbloc Plasterboard.
.
Can anyone please advise how to remove the Coving particularly where it has been stuck directly to the Soundbloc Plasterboard?

Thanks in advance

Kevin
 
Sorry but unless its been stuck on really poorly with wrong product it will make s**t of the ceiling and wall where coving is.
Hopefully as it was a council job it will have been stuck on with caulk.
 
Hello all

Thanks for the replies.

Unfortunately I am not able to provide pictures at the moment as my phone is acting up, sorry.

I will try to get some pictures as soon as I can. though.

I had a look through the paperwork for the job and I could only find a reference to No Nails but I do not know if that was just for the Skirting.

As for where I am, I am in Doncaster.

Thanks

Kevin
 
Just skim walls with wall smoother, sand and paint. No need to start putting multi finish over at 3+mm ish depth.
I did answer with pictures on screwfix forum then 2 mins later it shut down.

If I do skim walls or ceiling with cove fitted I feather in to keep the coving edge with maybe just 1mm of plaster. Don't really show then. Do you really need to remove coving? If it's OK and stuck well leave alone.
Makegood quick drying ready mixed is good and so is toupret wall smoother.
 
If it won't pull off and many do in big bits easy. Hammer through the middle then wood chisel or old scraper and hammer the remaining top and bottom bit that's stuck. Bit messy but even the hardest stuck cove will come away.
 
Just skim walls with wall smoother, sand and paint. No need to start putting multi finish over at 3+mm ish depth.
I did answer with pictures on screwfix forum then 2 mins later it shut down.

If I do skim walls or ceiling with cove fitted I feather in to keep the coving edge with maybe just 1mm of plaster. Don't really show then. Do you really need to remove coving? If it's OK and stuck well leave alone.
Makegood quick drying ready mixed is good and so is toupret wall smoother.
Why not just get @algeeman to put one of his infamous 0.5mm finish coats on?
 
Or in 2020 use a multi tool
No chance. Be there all day with top and bottom with multi tool. I do use a multi tool on cove joints to open cracks and along edges of cracks to open, but cove adhesive it's very slow going as rock hard and dusty. Smash middle through and chisel off. Worst case it would be hour for large room. Did this bellow in early march. Stuck with artex and no sealer I guess as came off easy enough. Got the right wall to do next but naff picture
IMG_20201017_202219_compress45.jpg
 
If you hit on edge it sometimes won't budge as stuck on other edge. Smashing middle stops the force being transferred through and works well. Bit of a tip that for those that didn't know. Hulk smash!
 
No chance. Be there all day with top and bottom with multi tool. I do use a multi tool on cove joints to open cracks and along edges of cracks to open, but cove adhesive it's very slow going as rock hard and dusty. Smash middle through and chisel off. Worst case it would be hour for large room. Did this bellow in early march. Stuck with artex and no sealer I guess as came off easy enough. Got the right wall to do next but naff picture View attachment 54672

Your wrong
 
If you hit on edge it sometimes won't budge as stuck on other edge. Smashing middle stops the force being transferred through and works well. Bit of a tip that for those that didn't know. Hulk smash!
That’s fine on a solid wall but there’s Minimal damage required you doughnut.
 
That’s fine on a solid wall but there’s Minimal damage required you doughnut.
Yeah I done it it many times over the last 30 years. Over plaster and board. If you get the 25mm (not standard 18mm) snap off long knife blades from Toolstation. Stick them in a wallpaper scraper that has a flat end to hammer. Slice anything off with that by hand or hammering end. Wicked bit of kit. Shave off the adhesive or whatever is holding cove. Well I've had my say. Guess people have different ideas. Whatever works for you I guess. Just sharing how I would do. Probably leave it and thin skim wall if it's OK as I said.

 
Yeah I done it it many times over the last 30 years. Over plaster and board. If you get the 25mm (not standard 18mm) snap off long knife blades from Toolstation. Stick them in a wallpaper scraper that has a flat end to hammer. Slice anything off with that by hand or hammering end. Wicked bit of kit. Shave off the adhesive or whatever is holding cove. Well I've had my say. Guess people have different ideas. Whatever works for you I guess. Just sharing how I would do. Probably leave it and thin skim wall if it's OK as I said.
Everyone has different methods and ways of doing stuff mate. I’ve always knocked it off the same as you on solid walls. Stud walls I’d use a multi tool as there’s no excessive damage to the board.
As long as the job is done correctly and the customers are happy that’s the main thing!
 
Everyone has different methods and ways of doing stuff mate. I’ve always knocked it off the same as you on solid walls. Stud walls I’d use a multi tool as there’s no excessive damage to the board.
As long as the job is done correctly and the customers are happy that’s the main thing!

Agreed, but I have it on good authority that you should always leave a gnarly, uneven gap in the plaster, at the top of the wall, so that the customer has to rely on the coving to stop the entire job from looking like a shower of sh*t (y)
 
Everyone has different methods and ways of doing stuff mate. I’ve always knocked it off the same as you on solid walls. Stud walls I’d use a multi tool as there’s no excessive damage to the board.
As long as the job is done correctly and the customers are happy that’s the main thing!
So what tool and blade you using? I have cheap multi tool and bi metal blade and it don't do much with cove adhesive or hard fillers. Maybe I need something better? Dewalt or fein with speed control is supposed to be good. Maybe I need to splash out and get something better
 
So what tool and blade you using? I have cheap multi tool and bi metal blade and it don't do much with cove adhesive or hard fillers. Maybe I need something better? Dewalt or fein with speed control is supposed to be good. Maybe I need to splash out and get something better

I admit that I haven't used it much on coving, but I have a cheapo multi-tool as well, and one thing I can tell you is that they have quite a small sawing stroke - i.e. the blade doesn't 'swing very far each way' (@BigBruvOfEnglandUK ;)).

This means that the saw teeth can get bogged down with material while you're cutting. A decent multi tool will transfer power better to the blade (newer versions of Starlock) and will have a better distance of sawing stroke. You may have noticed some of the Fein and Bosch Starlock Max blades are unusually long, and that's so you can achieve an even bigger sawing stroke, because the teeth are operating at a larger radius of motion from the pivot-point of the powertool.

zbh730698_rgb_ofc_600x450.jpg


For this very reason, I will be buying a decent Bosch or Fein in the not too distant future, in spite of the difference in cost, because there's nothing worse than wasting time and effort using a powertool that struggles to do the job. It wears you down every time you use it.
 
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I admit that I haven't used it much on coving, but I have a cheapo multi-tool as well, and one thing I can tell you is that they have quite a small sawing stroke - i.e. the blade doesn't 'swing very far each way' (@BigBruvOfEnglandUK ;)).

This means that the saw teeth can get bogged down with material while you're cutting. A decent multi tool will transfer power better to the blade (newer versions of Starlock) and will have a better distance of sawing stroke. You may have noticed some of the Fein and Bosch Starlock Max blades are unusually long, and that's so you can achieve an even bigger sawing stroke, because the teeth are operating at a larger radius of motion from the pivot-point of the powertool.

View attachment 54707

For this very reason, I will be buying a decent Bosch or Fein in the not too distant future, in spite of the difference in cost, because there's nothing worse than wasting time and effort using a powertool that struggles to do the job. It wears you down every time you use it.

fein are the best that’s all I know:coffe:
 
So what tool and blade you using? I have cheap multi tool and bi metal blade and it don't do much with cove adhesive or hard fillers. Maybe I need something better? Dewalt or fein with speed control is supposed to be good. Maybe I need to splash out and get something better
Cordless dewalt with the scraper blade attachment not a cutting blade.
 
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