Help Spraying rendaid

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Arti

Arti

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Alreet machine marra's.
Can somebody kindly enlighten me to the speed and water settings for spraying rendaid with the Ritmo L.

Cheers in advance

Arti
xxx
 
Cheers Marra............................Fewkin love this section.............................:bananahappy:
 
MikeAtthis said:
sorry keith im here now lol 160 on the water 5 on the speed for me arti
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Take it, it will be on the wet side? How do you key it? I have tried stipple but thats no good where the mesh is going to go and the peaks often came up on the surface of mono. I usually rendaid, mesh and another coat thick enough to scratch. Cost a lot though.
 
I never mesh in the rend aid ,asking for trouble , the mesh should be at least 6/8 mm from the face work
 
So conflicting view?? Who meshes the rendaid and who meshes the mono? Weber Rep said closer to substrate the better?

I await a few call backs :'(
 
I've always done it through the rend aid over the whole area as I'm usually going over nasty stuff on domestic,
I checked when first doing it with weber and they said in the rend aid is fine.
Also it has it in writing from them here.
https://www.netweber.co.uk/fileadmi..._Render_Around_Openings_to_Avoid_Cracking.pdf

What the others say about in the Mono that is also good advice and sometimes I put it in this coat when only doing the stress points.
When your hand balling mono on 25+ meters though and meshing the whole area I wouldn't dream doing it in that, to hard and high chance of mesh scratching through.
 
I put the mesh in the base. Two reasons, 1- the thinking is that cracking will start from the structure through the base into the render so if the base is strengthened the top layer is protected by being on a reinforced background. No technical expertise to back this up just my experience and opinion. Reason 2 - on really bad substrates the thickness of the finished top coat will inevitably be thick in some parts and thin in others, putting the mesh in the base removes the risk of rubbing down to the mesh in thin areas.
Always done it this way and I have never had a complaint about render cracking or failing I obviously don't get back to every render I do but I'm sure I'd get a call if any cracked and I have been past a few a did years before and so far never had any issues.
 
I put it in the base as if the substrate is going to move these sticky base that is well stuck to the substrate and fully reinforced with mesh will help hold the substrate together.

Plus of course stress patches in the render coat.

I have though on bad walls that are thick enough put mesh in the base then stress patches in the render and fully meshed again.

Did a thick Jub ocr recently on a South facing wall. Fully meshed base coat then mesh again at half thickness, including stess patches at 45 dehrees then mesh again 2 mm from the top. Notorious for shrinkage cracks over 10mm and facing south.

This wall though not the slightist craze anywhere. But triple meshed no wonder.
 
Rigsby said:
I put it in the base as if the substrate is going to move these sticky base that is well stuck to the substrate and fully reinforced with mesh will help hold the substrate together.

Plus of course stress patches in the render coat.

I have though on bad walls that are thick enough put mesh in the base then stress patches in the render and fully meshed again.

Did a thick Jub ocr recently on a South facing wall. Fully meshed base coat then mesh again at half thickness, including stess patches at 45 dehrees then mesh again 2 mm from the top. Notorious for shrinkage cracks over 10mm and facing south.

This wall though not the slightist craze anywhere. But triple meshed no wonder.
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Christ bet that was fun!
 
it may be correct to scrim in the mono .
we put the mesh in the rend aid as you have more time at that stage then when you apply the mono. the last thing that you want is to scratch back the mono and touch the scrim.
 
jdplast said:
I put the mesh in the base. Two reasons, 1- the thinking is that cracking will start from the structure through the base into the render so if the base is strengthened the top layer is protected by being on a reinforced background. No technical expertise to back this up just my experience and opinion. Reason 2 - on really bad substrates the thickness of the finished top coat will inevitably be thick in some parts and thin in others, putting the mesh in the base removes the risk of rubbing down to the mesh in thin areas.
Always done it this way and I have never had a complaint about render cracking or failing I obviously don't get back to every render I do but I'm sure I'd get a call if any cracked and I have been past a few a did years before and so far never had any issues.
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that is bang on
 
malc said:
it may be correct to scrim in the mono .
we put the mesh in the rend aid as you have more time at that stage then when you apply the mono. the last thing that you want is to scratch back the mono and touch the scrim.
Click to expand...

I havnt used mono but u say about time ? Is that more just time to get it on the wall ? I dont have a machine but i could imagin a tight quick coat mesh then go on top?
 
CTPlastering said:
I havnt used mono but u say about time ? Is that more just time to get it on the wall ? I dont have a machine but i could imagin a tight quick coat mesh then go on top?
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I always do one thick coat as it's quicker by hand this way so to put mesh in the finish would be a ball ache.maybe this is what Malc means?
 
kgreigh said:
I always do one thick coat as it's quicker by hand this way so to put mesh in the finish would be a ball ache.maybe this is what Malc means?
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Yeah a think that is what he means , i mesh ocr etc but it hasnt got to be scratched back .... Plus a 1.5mm top after . I can imagin the feelin of scratching back and hitting mesh it wud be a bummer lol
 
CTPlastering said:
I havnt used mono but u say about time ? Is that more just time to get it on the wall ? I dont have a machine but i could imagin a tight quick coat mesh then go on top?
Click to expand...

we bead up, apply the rend aid and scrim. you have plenty of time to scrim up on the rend aid day. you also have now cut down a few mm of required thickness. we 2 coat the mono .
 
Mesh in rend aid then scratch, tight coat of mono whilst on same level top it with heavier coat of mono and it stops those nasty bubbles buddy.
 
Balls
 

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1st go at spraying rendaid and it was a fewkin disaster. Got the test gear sorted. Attached the sprat pipe and started spraying just water. Rang Les got sorted then it started spraying and stopping. Messed about with the water and speed, ran out of gear in the end.....f**k**g machine.....lol

Anyone wanna buy a Ritmo ;-)
 
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