H&S for gennys

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Curry

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Just wondered if there is any think i should know relating to helth and saftey when having a genny on site. Im guessing indoors is a no go.
 
You can along as you're working inside so no leads trailing through windows etc also it can't be more than 4m from you're work area and in full view of one person in the gang at all times for fire regs incase they blow up basically and all doors and windows must be closed to avoid fumes drifting all around the site affecting other workers which you're public liability does not cover you for, you'll probably need a spill kit too
 
Steve I have worked on one site where they wanted the genny to be earthed and that the earth connection be checked by a sparky each day, needless to say I just nodded my head and carried on as usual and they never said another word about it. People just trying to cover their arses all the time, obviously this doesn't include JJ.
 
You will need to have a door or window open so the fumes can escape or you'll choke to death. Or you could extend the exhaust with a gas fire type flue liner to the outside. Or if its convenient or practical you could keep it in the back of your van with the lead trailing from it but not causing a trip hazzard. Thats if your worried about having it nicked.

You will have to make sure that you have an RCD protecting the power outlet whether its 240v or 110v, although its your own power supply and not a public one there is no legal requirement by the electricity at work regs to have one, but if there is a loss caused by an electrical hazzard its best to use one to keep your liabilities to a minmum for your own and everone elses sake. I have a reserved opinion on the use of RCDs but I won't qoute it here.

A drip tray would be advisable, as it it with pipefitters thread machines.

It will probably come under a hot works type scenario so a fire risk assessment would be required, ie a fire extinguisher, two buckets of dry builders sand can suffice for a 3 kw size genny, but it depends on the capacity of the fuel tank and the size of the of the peak cap of the jobs worth carrying out the risk assessment.

The above will only apply on larger main contractor managed sites, but on a smaller privately managed site it could be more relaxed.

I have worked on engine powered flying carpets and cherry pickers within buildings and their risk assessments were more cocerned with working at heights or running into someone or something, rather than fires and exhaust fumes.


On an old tranny van that I had, I cut a hole in the top to shove an old flue liner to extend the exhaust through it and terminated it into a 4" chimney gas cowl, it fitted just below the roof rack. All from a skip so didn't cost anything. I then cut a small panel from the bulkhead and made it into an access door and ran the leads out of the the door window. And when me or one of the other trades needed power on certain jobs, I used to drive as close as I could to where I was working. Start the genny up and I had enough power to run up to 3 KW loads, from such as a drill, some lighting, or even more important a kettle.

Sometimes this could be in a massive warehouse where there were deisel fork tucks and no socket outlets for at least 50 meters or so, and trailing leads were too much of a risk. Or it could be on the start of a new build where there isn't even a cabin.
 
As for earthing, the genny should have its own configuration due to the way its set up. Some sites go over the top with earthing and they are more concerned with potential earth loops. In which case an RCD would take care of any such phenominon causing a hazzard. A sparky that knows his stuff would probably argue the need for earthing a genny to the main earth bond within a building. But would have to satisfy the site policy on private genny's, no matter how stupid.
 
Thanks for the info niceandflat, i think we have a new genny expert in house!

Not to sure about cutting my van up though!
 
Meaning just use an RCD adaptor on the 240 or 110 outlets and this will satisfy minimum electrical safety requirements. If your on a site that's over managed then its up to them to provide temporary power.

RCDs can be a pain in the arse even on brand new equipment, so if you make up a short lead with a 13 amp plug or trailing 16 amp (commando) plug, then wire the other end of the lead to a 13 amp metal clad RCD single socket and tie it to the frame of the genny.

This will keep any random H&S audit in check. And if the RCD keeps tripping, just simply unplug it and resume as normal if there's no none looking. AHEM!
 

Meaning just use an RCD adaptor on the 240 or 110 outlets and this will satisfy minimum electrical safety requirements. If your on a site that's over managed then its up to them to provide temporary power.

RCDs can be a pain in the arse even on brand new equipment, so if you make up a short lead with a 13 amp plug or trailing 16 amp (commando) plug, then wire the other end of the lead to a 13 amp metal clad RCD single socket and tie it to the frame of the genny.

This will keep any random H&S audit in check. And if the RCD keeps tripping, just simply unplug it and resume as normal if there's no none looking. AHEM!


Sorry this post has been duplicated because I can't edit or delete my last post.
 
just get one off them indoor ones
about £400 i think or the last one the father in law had was
 
Thanks for the info niceandflat, i think we have a new genny expert in house!

Not to sure about cutting my van up though!

I think that there is an auto company that builds up a 2 gang panel with a 16 amp 110v and 240v sockets or plugs, that matches the panel and colour on the side of the van. Then on the inside there's just trailing leads with either trailing plugs or sockets on them. The next time you see a utilities van, look at the back and you will see what I mean.
 
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