First House, first full hit of plastering. Advice please ;)

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meltedcheese

New Member
Hello everyone,

New to the site but been reading up on plastering fairly recently and have labored for a plaster before now can spread etc but mainly dealt with lime. I have just bought my first house with my gfriend and intend to plaster it myself. Just need some advice really, found the threads on here really useful so far.

I have stripped the living room back to brick up to the coving, the plaster was hanging + the damp course needed injecting. (pics at the bottom!)

Can somebody please put me right if the process I am going to use is incorrect, thanks -

-Unibond all the walls

- Mix 4:1 sand/cement + waterproofer

-Apply 1st coat render with a scratched finish

- Apply 2nd coat and devil float

- Leave for a few days to dry out

- Unibond walls again

- Apply browning or hard wall plaster for the next coat leave for a few hours and skim with multifinish

In my current house batton has been used for the edges and slats on the wooden lintle, should I take these out and use something else? I have seen the galv edging strips but not sure if they would make up the thickness I need, how can I achieve good edges basically! ;)

Sorry for babbling on, just keen to learn.

Here are the pics of my bombsite -

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nickelarse

Private Member
if u do what u have suggested u will have no coving left

use a primer on the walls if yours not confident at rendering quick. sand and cement ruled and devil floated. skim on top.
 

spunky

Private Member
I'd take that Coving off and refit some fresh stuff personally if it was me I'd stud and dry line the external Walls Inc insulation and dab everything else
 
it looks like he has copied this from another website??? Possibly?? As the BR means break in HTML code so every BR was meant to have a line break :)

Welcome to the forum

Remove coving :) dont be tight!!
 

Curry

Private Member
What do you do for a living? surely its easyer to go to work and earn money using the skills you have to pay a plasterer? If you try to do this yourself it will look shite and why do you want your new house to look shite?

If you are going to do it batten the externals and insulate dot and dab rest, there is less chancde of you ballsing it up, plus it will be easyer to skim.
 

meltedcheese

New Member
Thanks for the responses so far, wrote this all last night haven't copied from anywhere.
Boat designer for a living now, comfortable with a float and hawk fast at spreading just used to lime plastering and rendering(did it for around 2 years before getting a job as an engineer). If I make a balls of it I make a balls of it, can always get a plasterer in if I get in trouble.
Can anybody answer any of my questions then?
Not to keen on dot and dab, would prefer to have some good solid walls.
 

jackom

Active Member
would definately remove coving if goin to all the trouble of taking back to brick. no need to pva walls. imo they just need sand and cement scratch coat with waterproofer then sand and cement top coat ruled of and devil floated. put water proofer in the top coat to then no need for pva bfore skimming
 

warriorupnorth

Private Member
Sand and cement all the way 4-1 is ok with a waterproofer/salt inhibiter , especially on those old bricks which has just had a dpc, or if you want something a little easier to work with use thistle dri-coat, rip off the old timber beads and replace with galv, board or mesh wooden lintels, and skim
 
Sand and cement all the way 4-1 is ok with a waterproofer/salt inhibiter , especially on those old bricks which has just had a dpc, or if you want something a little easier to work with use thistle dri-coat, rip off the old timber beads and replace with galv, board or mesh wooden lintels, and skim

Warriors an Old School Pro...... Far more experienced than myself who opts for the kop-out dot and dab system!!!

respect for warrior and his methods
 

essexandy

The Lake Governor
Or remove all coving, put a strong waterproof S&C parge coat over the exterior walls and then dot & dab the lot. This would not only be the easiest way for someone not plastering on a regular basis but would get over those thick proud conduits easier than just S&C render. And this comes from someone who hates dot & dab and loves S&C.
 
Thanks for the responses so far, wrote this all last night haven't copied from anywhere.
Boat designer for a living now, comfortable with a float and hawk fast at spreading just used to lime plastering and rendering(did it for around 2 years before getting a job as an engineer). If I make a balls of it I make a balls of it, can always get a plasterer in if I get in trouble.
Can anybody answer any of my questions then?
Not to keen on dot and dab, would prefer to have some good solid walls.



Meltedcheese..... regardless of what system you decide to use you have a lot of work on your hands which you obviuously know as doing lime and render in the past.

Good look in your 1st house and im sure you will be fine knowing theres always top advice on hand in the forum.
 

Curry

Private Member
amazing how people ask for advice then as soon as its something they dont want to do the just ignore it.

dot and dab it if u float it it will look crap
 

kebab king

Private Member
Id say if ypur needing to ask questions such as do i need to remove the old woodedn beads your going to get in trouble.But fair go for having a dab yourself.Post us some after pics .
 

meltedcheese

New Member
Thanks for more input chaps, I do appreciate the benefits of dot and dab and how much easier it will be. I am taking in all the advice of everybody as all has helped, negative and positive. From where I am stood the plan of dot and dabbing the reveals and over the entrance door, mesh over the lintles then render. Sectioned it off today to give me an easier job. Will post some progress pics soon, even if I balls it up ;)
 

JamieMac

Member
i would plaster the walls using renovating plaster.as it is approved in a dpc or u could use limelight also good 4 when theres dampness.for rising damp.dont take the plaster right down 2 the ground or ul bridge the damp coarse.good luck.
 

ruffdiamond

New Member
Thanks for more input chaps, I do appreciate the benefits of dot and dab and how much easier it will be. I am taking in all the advice of everybody as all has helped, negative and positive. From where I am stood the plan of dot and dabbing the reveals and over the entrance door, mesh over the lintles then render. Sectioned it off today to give me an easier job. Will post some progress pics soon, even if I balls it up ;)

Come on then what does it look like?
 

spark2010

New Member
The question u have to ask yourself what are u trying to achieve here, in terms of thermal value and needing a high impact area
i would avoid sand and cement as s&c has no thermal value whatsoever, although it is solid..however u will have to use s&c on the int/ext wall. Backing plaster in your case Hardwall, has decent thermal value and it is quite tough. Last option is plasterboard which has the highest thermal value and probably the easiest to skim on, but very hollow. But as your gaff is the old solid walls which are damp prone id use render/hardwall !!
 
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