First go at EWI

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essexandy

The Lake Governor
As above on my own place, I'd never do something for the first time on a paying customers house.
So far just boarded and mesh/basecoated but thought I'd stick a few pics up so that perhaps the more experienced guys could point out any mistakes or improvements we could make in the future.
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Looks ok mate.

Are you following a spec ? What basecoat/system is it ? I would ask if you had followed a pin spec ?

Where did you get the boards? they look an odd size although it dont matter

I see you rasped the edges there, I always give it a whole rasp to take the dead of the eps surface and that extra key. the tiny mm gaps between boards should be filled with a dense gun grade foam before mesh, bigger gaps splice with eps.

Well mate I see alot worse going on sites by so called EWI operatives. Nice work pal
 
@plasterjfe thanks mate.
I'm using Parex gear and was told (by Parex) pins weren't necessary on new block work but thought I'd put some in anyway.
The boards on this elevation were sold to me as 2.4x1.2 on the cheap as a favour by our insulation suppliers. We were just cutting them in half. On the first elevation we did we were using the normal size boards.
Yeah I knew the gaps should have been filled with foam and if doing it for a paying customer we would do so, to be honest I've put so much insulation into this extension/refurb I was worried about a few small gaps.
I read on another thread that you rasp it all over (what a minging job that must be) but did a pull test with mesh on an off cut of board and the board broke before the Maite would pull off so decided to only rasp down the edges.
I'm glad it looks ok to someone with your experience John as I was quite pleased with it.
 
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Well your ok with maite base as parex say you dont need pins with block or cemboard but no harm in chucking some pins in there. its very good basecoat.

nice job
 
As John said Andy for the cost of the pins it's worth putting a few more in for peace of mind. Also make sure you stagger your boards so it's more like a 50/50 bond just like laying bricks
 
@warriorupnorth cheers Paul. On the first elevation, using the normal smaller boards I was putting five pins to a board, was that overkill?
I realised I fecked up on the bond on a couple of bits so doubled up on the mesh in those areas so hopefully that'll stop any issues.
I forgot to say we're also going to be forming a raised plinth in EPS as well. We were going to mix some SBR into the Maite and use the white EPS for below damp, is there anything else we should be aware of?
 
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id say 5 pins per board is over kill, especially with maitie its one of the best adhesives about but as said looks tidy enough.
 
Sometimes you need to micro the background when using maite. It could be spec for medium block.

Is that right andy
 
Why you standing boards up ?
Why did you not put a 200-300mm rip in to get a better return around the window under the sill ?
Also i cant get my head round for such a small area you would use a pump.
 
Why you standing boards up ?
Why did you not put a 200-300mm rip in to get a better return around the window under the sill ?
Also i cant get my head round for such a small area you would use a pump.

He has already said its his first job on his own place,not for a paying customer.
 
Why you standing boards up ?
Why did you not put a 200-300mm rip in to get a better return around the window under the sill ?
Also i cant get my head round for such a small area you would use a pump.

Hi Mark, if you'd all the way through you know that we were using 1.2x2.4 boards cut in half, not the normal boards on end.
The boards were cut so that they abutted at the centre of each window both below the cill and above the head. Is that not the best place to put the joint?
We used the Ritmo because despite owning it for a fair while we've barely used it and wanted to get used to it.
As bobby has said this is on my own place not for a customer.
 
Hi Mark, if you'd all the way through you know that we were using 1.2x2.4 boards cut in half, not the normal boards on end.
The boards were cut so that they abutted at the centre of each window both below the cill and above the head. Is that not the best place to put the joint?
We used the Ritmo because despite owning it for a fair while we've barely used it and wanted to get used to it.
As bobby has said this is on my own place not for a customer.

I just seen its your own house.
It would be better IMHO and some spec advise that you run the boards normal and put a 200-300 rip in.
You only stand boards up as a last resort.
But saying that yeah it looks ok mate
 
Doing Ewi for a few years now I would have put more pins in just for piece of mind they are not the expensive part of the system u don't want any boards coming loose after mesh coat turning boards up on end not a big issue they don't like them turned up on the base track meshing looked good tidy key all systems are different. I use my ritmo to do the Parex system why lay by hand when a machine can do it for u
 
Doing Ewi for a few years now I would have put more pins in just for piece of mind they are not the expensive part of the system u don't want any boards coming loose after mesh coat turning boards up on end not a big issue they don't like them turned up on the base track meshing looked good tidy key all systems are different. I use my ritmo to do the Parex system why lay by hand when a machine can do it for u

He won't need any pins with the correct bed ashesive of maite. Its was originally designed to be the only sticking method. In the states they still don't pin Parex or dryvit. Pins are a back up for weaker systems such as wthby. 5pins per board is a normal in Europe now as a secondary fix.

It is the original sh1t to a blanket
 
@plasterjfe you're not fecking kidding it's like shite to a blanket! I put a test board onto a painted wall and then a couple of days later tried to pull it off. Just resulted in me pulling the EPS into a million little pieces lol. That said when we do the original cottage, straight over the old painted render we'll be putting some pins in. Belt and braces and all that.
This Maite gear is unbelievably flexible, don't make the same mistake I did and leave some in a flexible tub because it won't want to come out lol
 
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@plasterjfe you're not fecking kidding it's like shite to a blanket! I put a test board onto a painted wall and then a couple of days later tried to pull it off. Just resulted in me pulling the EPS into a million little pieces lol. That said when we do the original cottage, straight over the old painted render we'll be putting some pins in. Belt and braces and all that.
This Maite gear is unbelievably flexible, don't make the same mistake I did and leave some in a flexible tub because it won't want to come out lol

Its tested to make sure under stress the EPs breaks down and fails before the maite the maite under force will stay bonded longer before everything else strips off
 
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Can Maite be used as a scratch coat for S&C or mono onto a painted surface?
@essexandy Did you prime the painted wall on your test panel?
 
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@DannyMac no mate I just chose a clean area where the paint was well bonded.
I would have thought you'd be better off using Parinter seeing as that's what it's made for.
 
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Not used the insulation base. Been using adhesive base for backing coat on hack off etc painted with mesh an pin etc. So always combed with a scratcher. One thing to watch tho moisture and temps as it will flash big time. Better for spring summer use really
 
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