Fecking scaffolders

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Ianspreader

Ianspreader

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Hello everybody, I webber pral m"ed a double garage with a room above and the day after I finished the client got the scaffold down and of course they have marked it like they always do. They have scuffed the texture of and there is a coluer difference much lighter looks awful. So was after some advice on how to make good these marks.the gits lol
 
Ever noticed how most scaffolders look like the missing evolutionary link between neanderthal man and homo sapiens.Not so much cave dwellers, but cafe dwellers.
 
Lol it's just mad spend time to get a decent finish and they swear it's impossible to take down the scaffold without damaging it lol
 
mark ross said:
Ever noticed how most scaffolders look like the missing evolutionary link between neanderthal man and homo sapiens.Not so much cave dwellers, but cafe dwellers.
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It wasn't until I'd seen some scaffolders that I realised I was [slightly] further up the evolutionary scale :RpS_thumbup:
 
d*m**o used to be a scaffolder :RpS_biggrin:
before he was a plasterer, a Tiler, a groundworker, & a bricklayer.....
 
Done the front of a house this morning, scaffolders are taking it down as i type this. Whats the bets there will be at least one hand print and scrape marks all the way down. Hate when you have to patch things in because people hit the wall
 
If you have to paint it Weber (The people born out of wedlock) will tell you to use their Webersil.p as an equalizing paint. Its crap! Sandtex masonry in disguise. Jub Revitacolor Ag is good, from Direct Building products in Bradford. 30m2 per bucket in two coats. Ist coat takes loads compared to the second.
 
Ianspreader said:
Lol it's just mad spend time to get a decent finish and they swear it's impossible to take down the scaffold without damaging it lol
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Some of the other old gits like myself will remember the days when it was the spreads job to drop the pudlock scaffold down as we finished each lift, amazingly we very rarely hit the walls let alone dragged the poles down them as these morons seem to think is acceptable.
 
Lol i would adapt a scaffold to work on anywhere but last time i moved a scaffold bar i was shouted at and told i would never work on a scaffold again lol f*cking jobs worth C*nt.
 
Apart from scraping the fkin new walls................

Too high, too low, satellite dishes and aerials twatted off walls and chimneys, slates broken, windows potted, cills damaged, even with a PERFECT, TUBE-SIZED CIRCLE............................................................................................................................
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v



"Wasn't us mate"

:-0
 
Rigsby said:
If you have to paint it Weber (The people born out of wedlock) will tell you to use their Webersil.p as an equalizing paint. Its crap! Sandtex masonry in disguise. Jub Revitacolor Ag is good, from Direct Building products in Bradford. 30m2 per bucket in two coats. Ist coat takes loads compared to the second.
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parex dpr stuff is good to use, dilute it down with water like a mist coat on the first coat.
 
owls said:
parex dpr stuff is good to use, dilute it down with water like a mist coat on the first coat.
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You can water down the JUB 50/50 as a priming coat. It looked good with just 1 coat. Hopefully I will never need to use it again.
 
There's about 20 plus marks on it , I reckon they done it to prove a point because we adjusted/took half down lol
 
We tyroleaned a semi once and as the scaffold monkeys were striking it the woman started crying cus too much was happening at one time lol.

No matter how many times you tell them they put 100's of diagonals in. Make lifts 5ft tall or Butt the horizontals tight up to the wall. Theres a reason they do the donkey work for the tradesmen.
 
try and patch them before painting or respray. mix some pral m the night before.
chip out marks next day then squeeze in the semi dry with pointer or small tool. texture straight away with edge of pointer being careful not to mark existing. works well on small holes. bigger ones bit more noticeable
 
Something to bear in mind with the equalising paint is is will more than likely be a different shade. I did a semi in 2010 in Weber Ivory Tyrolean. Last year I did next door in Weber Limestone by mistake and had to use their WeberSil.p in Ivory. A complete difference in colour. Even looks worse in winter with next doors Ivory having absorbed a bit of moisture.
 
beddy said:
We tyroleaned a semi once and as the scaffold monkeys were striking it the woman started crying cus too much was happening at one time lol.

No matter how many times you tell them they put 100's of diagonals in. Make lifts 5ft tall or Butt the horizontals tight up to the wall. Theres a reason they do the donkey work for the tradesmen.
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thats probably just the right height lift for you. x
 
Rigsby said:
Something to bear in mind with the equalising paint is is will more than likely be a different shade. I did a semi in 2010 in Weber Ivory Tyrolean. Last year I did next door in Weber Limestone by mistake and had to use their WeberSil.p in Ivory. A complete difference in colour. Even looks worse in winter with next doors Ivory having absorbed a bit of moisture.
Click to expand...

Come on mate just accept that you and weber. don't mix
 
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