Ewi preferred fixing method.

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Jgreenplastering

Jgreenplastering

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Hi all

Starting our first EWI job tomorrow, Just wondering what people's advice is on fixing and cutting EPS boards?

Do you prefer the dab or full notched bed and what trowels do people use? Just a tile trowel?

Have some flat areas and some stone work to go over.

Cheers




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I use Jub so picture frame with six dots then mechanical fix, if it's Sps were using its just dry fix d*m**o 5


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Dansouthcoast84 said:
in therory and ideal world. knotch trowel would be best or picture frame.adhesive.

but you will find yourself dabbing them.

on a 600x1.2m board we do 4 across 3 down on dabs. and pinn following day
Click to expand...

Thanks Dan.

Does dabbing void the warranty?
Is this method used for quickness up to the others?
The less gap between the board and the existing wall the better I'm told so not large dabs?


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Dabbing and dry fixing are two ways of completing an EWI job.My personal experiance is if the walls are spot on you don't need dabbing,but if you need to do it increase the price with 1/3 at least. It's time consuming and if the walls are pissed you will need decent amount of adhesive. In ideal world, as Dan mentioned , notched trowel is the best , but I haven't seen a house yet that has 15-20 mm deflection. 5 dabs per board has worked brilliant for me and you know exactly where to drill after that.You can also do good job by pinning the boards only.Use foam for the gaps and rasp the joints. Pay attention to the corners, bare in mind all s**t corners are very noticeable and pain in the ass to look at.
 
If your passing a proper warranty the system manufacturer should tell you how they want you to fix the boards and where to dab.
 
Dab and pinned,
none of this corners on insulation donked so fill it with adhesive either it's a cold spot, all neat abutted.
 
owls said:
Dab and pinned,
none of this corners on insulation donked so fill it with adhesive either it's a cold spot, all neat abutted.
Click to expand...

Sorry mate am I reading it wrong or have you written it with random words to confuse me?


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Every job I've done I've always dabbed and pinned and they have always worked out well.
Who stick and pin on the same day?
 
Jgreenplastering said:
Yea the Parex Rep has been sound, just trying to get some advice from the lads using it on site and not be given generic answers.

Do you dab solid where both corners meets?



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Click to expand...
Do u mean dot and dab the corners of the boards eps to eps?
If so I never do that
 
Jerseyboy said:
Do u mean dot and dab the corners of the boards eps to eps?
If so I never do that
Click to expand...

Sorry mate; not board to board but where the boards meet the edge of the existing corner of the building, do you solid dab this all the way up or just dab the boards like normal?


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Jgreenplastering said:
Sorry mate; not board to board but where the boards meet the edge of the existing corner of the building, do you solid dab this all the way up or just dab the boards like normal?


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Click to expand...
I always butter the whole edge of the board and 5 small dabs .
So yes full edge on corners and usually more fixings on corners.
But follow your spec for fixing pattern
 
Jgreenplastering said:
Sorry mate am I reading it wrong or have you written it with random words to confuse me?


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Click to expand...
No just how I phrased it,
Just best practice, you see how packs of insulation have been badly handled with corners off etc and just filled on the wall, leading to cold spots.
Agree with what's been said, follow your spec.
 
So I had my first day at it today!
Easier than I thought.
One thing I did notice and not sure if it's just me but

Weber eps Boards are 100mm
Wemico Base rails are 100mm
There's no play to allow for the dab on the back so you end up trying to jam the insulation Into the groove! Not the best when the base rails are only thin alu and you tried to level and fix them along a wonky stone wall!

Also the clip on mesh drip beads are very difficult to clip on due to what's mentioned above! I've got to try and suss it out tomorrow.
Unless I've been sent the wrong beads it seems like the finish nib is 10mm for top coat then the clip on bit is 5mm so it sits off the board to allow for base coat.
Add that all up and even with a thin dab of say 3mm it's 8mm min over thickness off the base track!


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It's best to use some base rail packers if needed they will give you more space to dab the boards.
And put the base rail beads on before you put any boards in the starter track
And don't worry about the drip just go over the drip and cut the shots of the next day it will look ok
 
Jerseyboy said:
It's best to use some base rail packers if needed they will give you more space to dab the boards.
And put the base rail beads on before you put any boards in the starter track
And don't worry about the drip just go over the drip and cut the shots of the next day it will look ok
Click to expand...

Packers would be no good on this job stone work is raked and wonky so would be a massive ball ache trying to fix and keep straight.
Surely it would be easier to make the tracks a little wider than the board as there always dabbed then pinned?

I'm going back tomorrow to do the other sides, base rails already fixed. I'll put beads on first.
Doesn't give you much to play with though does it.

Thanks for help! [emoji106]


Well that's f**k*d me then, I've put the boards on one elevation before the beads!
Live and learn I suppose!


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Jgreenplastering said:
Packers would be no good on this job stone work is raked and wonky so would be a massive ball ache trying to fix and keep straight.
Surely it would be easier to make the tracks a little wider than the board as there always dabbed then pinned?

I'm going back tomorrow to do the other sides, base rails already fixed. I'll put beads on first.
Doesn't give you much to play with though does it.

Thanks for help! [emoji106]


Well that's f**k*d me then, I've put the boards on one elevation before the beads!
Live and learn I suppose!


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Click to expand...
It's alway a squeeze with base rails and beads and boards
If I have to do a job on a dashed or bumpy wall I always use a 3 metre rule and Dutch pins then sit the rail on and put a packer were the fixing goes it's not to difficult well until someone showed me how to do it .
It's less and Easier work when you have more space behind the board
 
Jerseyboy said:
I've never used it is it any good
Click to expand...

When dabbing always. You have no excuses and walls have to be perfect. Dry fix - you follow the background ant there is not much you can do, you can minimise the difference but not eliminate . I was fed up with trying to make it up with adhesive , packers etc. More expensive but wort every penny. Used only pvc btw
 
Jgreenplastering said:
Hi all

Starting our first EWI job tomorrow, Just wondering what people's advice is on fixing and cutting EPS boards?

Do you prefer the dab or full notched bed and what trowels do people use? Just a tile trowel?

Have some flat areas and some stone work to go over.

Cheers




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Click to expand...
Take a photo of each stage mate eh so i can piss myself laughing
Cheers
 
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