eml

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wil

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ok lads so i can't chop off all the painted pebble dash cause it's solid so what would be the way forward 2 or 3 coat or at the very worst eml followed by 3 coats ???
 
i wouldnt advise a bigger kango this will cause the snots off the back of the bricks to block up the cavity and then cause penetrative damp.
 
on a full mesh and its sound then yes, if i was going over a fully painted surface i would also use some fixings into the background as well. its a bit time consumimg but its better to cover yourself
 
flynnyman said:
i wouldnt advise a bigger kango this will cause the snots off the back of the bricks to block up the cavity and then cause penetrative damp.
i suppose so, if the cavity is hollow, and the origional bricklayers were absolutely sh'te but i can honestly say ive never heard that mentioned as a possible problem?
cant see it happening with an isotherm filled cavity or even polystyrene beads for that matter? and definately not on a solid 9" wall?
dont suppose it matters either way it was only a suggestion... eml is as good a method as any...
 
Another route is to sbr slurry eml then two/ three coat render , depends what the dashing like.
 
Chris W said:
flynnyman said:
i wouldnt advise a bigger kango this will cause the snots off the back of the bricks to block up the cavity and then cause penetrative damp.
i suppose so, if the cavity is hollow, and the origional bricklayers were absolutely sh'te but i can honestly say ive never heard that mentioned as a possible problem?
cant see it happening with an isotherm filled cavity or even polystyrene beads for that matter? and definately not on a solid 9" wall?
dont suppose it matters either way it was only a suggestion... eml is as good a method as any...

there is no right and wrong just preventative measures the worst for this is cavity wall ties they come about at the same time as rising damp just a thought.
 
what flynny is trying to suggest is that there is no such thing as rising damp, what people are led to believe is rising damp is in fact snotters sitting on cavity wall ties causing penetrative damp... perfectly possible...


to be honest flynny ive never come across rising damp in a cavity wall situation either...

all the rising damp jobs ive been on have been in old houses where the dpc was either none existent or made of slate which as we know, is porous and prone to snapping under subsidence..
 
Did you guys know that eml has a certain side that should face out ???? I didnt till the rep told me, then showed me !

Rich
 
old git i used to work for showed me that and when cut it takes off the galv so dont use outside
 
richardbrown said:
Did you guys know that eml has a certain side that should face out ???? I didnt till the rep told me, then showed me !

Rich
just remembered this..
i didnt.. why is that?
 
we used to put rib lathe up the wrong way round thinking it was three coat cause you had to dub out the horizontal bead ;D
 
speaking of lathe..
first time i used that platon membrane i used it wrong way round.... studs outwards... couldnt get render to stick to it...
:-[
 
its hard to explain but if you pick up a piece and look at it its like twisted metal at 45o that has to be faceing up so the render slides down onto it not upside down so it slides off ..... hard to explain and im sure it really dont make much difference
 
not right way round then just right way up!!
plantpot...
spose its only obvious if you know the answer though...
 
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