Drywalling without dot n dab

Mokshaka

New Member
My plasterer has fitted 37.5mm insulated plasterboard to my breeze block extension walls. It’s a cavity wall with out 10cm cavity then brick externally.
He’s used 6 inch plastic umbrella fixings through and into the breeze lock without any form of bonding or dot n dab. Some of the boards have a little give to them and he’s redone them.
Is this ok?
 

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Mokshaka

New Member
Id really appreciate some advice/clarification. It’s not my field, I’m a nurse so not sure about this kind of stuff. Is this an ok way to do it? Just worried.
 
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Mokshaka

New Member
No they shoud be a secondary fix after it's dot and dabbed
So what should I do? Tell him to take it all off, dot n dab and redo? I’ve only paid him a third of his quote. The vaulted cieling seems ok as the insulated board is screwed to the rafters. Is it reasonable to ask him to redo it?
 

Elite exteriors

Well-Known Member
So what should I do? Tell him to take it all off, dot n dab and redo? I’ve only paid him a third of his quote. The vaulted cieling seems ok as the insulated board is screwed to the rafters. Is it reasonable to ask him to redo it?
Yes it should be dot and dabbed properly then secondary fixed
 

Steve Brown

Well-Known Member
Definitely need removing then as elite exteriors said dot and dabbed then secondary fixed.
If they don’t do this then the boards will move and you’ll get cracks on your walls later down the line.
 

Cockney1

Well-Known Member
My plasterer has fitted 37.5mm insulated plasterboard to my breeze block extension walls. It’s a cavity wall with out 10cm cavity then brick externally.
He’s used 6 inch plastic umbrella fixings through and into the breeze lock without any form of bonding or dot n dab. Some of the boards have a little give to them and he’s redone them.
Is this ok?
Hit him over the head with a shovel and drag him out of your house.
 

Mokshaka

New Member
Thanks everyone. I stood my ground despite considerable effort from him to convince me it will be fine and if it cracks he’ll come back and redo it lol. Just insisted he either redo it or I get someone else and he won’t get paid. He’s redone it and it’s nice and firm, no movement.
Thanks all for you’re advice and encouragement.
 

essexandy

The Lake Governor
Why would you bother with such a poor insulation board? If you're going to pay out on the labour, then it might as well involve a worthwhile thickness of insulation.
 

ChrispyUK

Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone. I stood my ground despite considerable effort from him to convince me it will be fine and if it cracks he’ll come back and redo it lol. Just insisted he either redo it or I get someone else and he won’t get paid. He’s redone it and it’s nice and firm, no movement.
Thanks all for you’re advice and encouragement.

Good for you. Too many chancers about :coffe:
 

Steve Brown

Well-Known Member
Why would you dot and dab then secondary fix.?
Different manufacturers have different specs as well as different area/council building inspectors. Essentially it’s in case of a fire and insulation losses it’s bond due to heat the secondary fix holds it in place (that’s the theory).
The fixings they have used look to be external plastic ones so wouldn’t work if there was a fire.
 

ChrispyUK

Well-Known Member
Different manufacturers have different specs as well as different area/council building inspectors. Essentially it’s in case of a fire and insulation losses it’s bond due to heat the secondary fix holds it in place (that’s the theory).
The fixings they have used look to be external plastic ones so wouldn’t work if there was a fire.

That’s why I use foam to stick em
 
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